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Discussion Starter #1
anybody here run a t.5 in their car.
i,m thinking of building my self a toy for next year and it has one of them in it. looking for some one who allready has had one and what mods they made to make it shift and keep alive.
mild car 6.0-7.0 [1/8]type thing.thanks bob
 

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Ran one out of a 96' v6 mustang in my fox for about 2years,12.50 car,stock style clutch,powershifted it,what killed it was an aggressive clutch. I have a kill count of 3-4 I think on T5's,I would say the easiest thing to do to keep it alive is don't powershift it,and don't throw an aggressive clutch/flywheel in it(my down fall).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ran one out of a 96' v6 mustang in my fox for about 2years,12.50 car,stock style clutch,powershifted it,what killed it was an aggressive clutch. I have a kill count of 3-4 I think on T5's,I would say the easiest thing to do to keep it alive is don't powershift it,and don't throw an aggressive clutch/flywheel in it(my down fall).
lol, kinda defeats the purpose of having a stick if it cant be power shifted.....:rolleyes:
 

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Hey,you said you wanted to keep it alive,by all means powershift the phuck out of it,like I said i did for two years and bracket raced every other weekend with 5k side step launches. But the clutch got toasted on the second year and I put an aggressive one in,which killed it. 3rd gear is the one that goes boom,so another trick is to powershift every other gear except 3rd,and make sure you have an aftermarket shifter to avoid bending forks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey,you said you wanted to keep it alive,by all means powershift the phuck out of it,like I said i did for two years and bracket raced every other weekend with 5k side step launches. But the clutch got toasted on the second year and I put an aggressive one in,which killed it. 3rd gear is the one that goes boom,so another trick is to powershift every other gear except 3rd,and make sure you have an aftermarket shifter to avoid bending forks.
ok,thanks is your pro shifted or does it still have stock insides
 

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7.0s or even high 6s is doable. Low 6s good luck. As said use an aftermarket shifter and soft clutch. I've ran a lot of 10.60-.90s with them in stock form using a FMS Cobra clutch. I think that was 6.80-7.0s in the 1/8. I always lift on the shifts though. You can do a very fast shift lifting off the gas. Synchronized T5s don't like powershifting and won't last long. That tiny bit of ET isn't worth the wear on the transmission IMO. Gforce does sell an aftermarket dog ring non-synchronized gearset for them which is much stronger and will allow the WFO shifting. Only way to go if you want a strong T5 you can powershift. Both Astro Performance and G-force sell a synchronized version as well. There's a stronger mainshaft I would recomend as well for any high HP builds with aftermarket gearsets.
I rebuild and sell a lot of T5s(40+ per year) and most destruction occurs from wheel hop, vibration problems, overly aggresive shifting, or too aggressive of clutch(No Spec Stage 3 or similiar). They can hold a decent amount of HP, but are fragile if mistreated. I probably fix more of them from near stock Mustangs than built cars. Also the lighter the car the better. Do not throw a used worn out unit in your car and expect it to live. The mainshaft end play and main cluster end play need to be within specs along with gears that aren't worn down to a razors edge.
Good luck with the project. I hope to run well into the 9s in the 1/4 with a stock geared unit soon, but I don't expect it to live. I just want to see how much they can take when treated properly. I think the key will be enough clutch to hold, but not break parts. May have to go with a custom adjustable clutch.
 

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I killed 3 or 4 myself as well, back in my college era. Super heavy car, 5-6k side-step off the clutch at the line(hays roller-assiti borg&beck with their street/strip disc), powershifting through and running 11.7's on 315/35/17 drag radials. Never broke one during a shift, it was always under power in the 3rd. - The first one took the shifter out of my hand as it tried to exit the car.........lol. Dropped the crossmember and pulled it out, then reached up and un-bolted the rest of the case.

While the up-grades will indeed help, I'm not a fan. The case is the weak link, all the internals are just high dollar band-aids trying to take some load out of the case. - There are a few Hanlon billet cases floating around in the road-race crowd though, that might be something to look into if you're really set on trying to work with one.
 

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Of the several hundred I've rebuilt I've yet to see case damage other than a drive shaft taking one out. But I have heard that in high HP applications with the G-force gears the case becomes the weak link. I was thinking about building a CM brace similiar to a rear end girdle that braced a stock case from both sides. G Force also sells billet cases.
 

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Had a buddy do the G force gears in his, on a NA 11.80ish car,last about 3 1/2 years with street driving. Just seems hard to make em live,but some guys dont mind pulling em out every so often and rebuilding.
 

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I like the saying.."Some people can break an anvil in a sandbox". A T5 is not for those people. I pulled 1.36-1.40 60' times, ran 10.6s, lifted the wheels high in 1st and 6-8" in 2nd with stock geared T5. Car put down 456RWHP and 571 FT LB TQ. The car weighed 3050 lbs w/ driver. I always ran FMS Cobra clutch. Ran 100s of 10s and low 11s with same T5 without one issue. It did whine loud when I sold it, but still worked flawlessly. Never powershifted or ran above 6200 rpms. I wasn't easy on it, but rarely missed a gear and always lifted on shifts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOqOuTYU8R4 More recent my current car went 10.90s with a very mild setup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pop-KD3MVI0 I've seen some videos of someone on here going well into the 9s with a stock T5. No reason for anything more in an 11 second car IMO. If you're breaking it there's a reason and it's not the strength of the T5. It's something in your setup or driver mod. Some are just bad at shifting and some are just too damn aggresive. A TKO or stronger transmission can handle misuse or abuse better simply due to it's a beefier transmission. Yet still people manage to break them with 11 second cars somehow.

I do think a simple check and reset of the mainshaft end play helps a lot keeping one alive. I offer all my customers this service free once a year just to prolong their T5s life. If you have a T5 wiggle the input shaft...does it move...it shouldn't. ;) End play is 0 +/- .002. Should spin easy but no wiggle.
 

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Mine were undoubtedly the vehicle weight and aggressive driving. GTA convertible w/ in floor frame connectors, 8-point, and a monster competition sound system. Only scaled it once and it was 4001 w/o me in it. I shifted it around 72-7600, no clutch, no-lift.

The reason I consider the case as the weak link is because of the little material between the main shaft & cluster. Especially w/ helical type gears, the case just isn't strong enough to negate the gear deflect under heavy abuse. The good main-shafts help this considerably, the straight cut gears go a long way towards helping. - The thing with that is, unless you have to have a T5 per a class rule, those parts cost more than a TKO and the trans will still be higher maintenance.
 

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Damn that's a lot of weight and RPM for a T5. You really have to want to run a T5 at high HP to justify the aftermarket beef I agree. I tell people that all the time a TKO may be a better choice. I get so many calls that start out...I have 600HP and want to run a T5. I counter with yes you can do it and no it's not cheap.
 

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In the early 90's I ran a liberty t-5 behind my 306NA. I could beat on that thing for a year at the track running hundreds of passes in the 10.70 [email protected] Last month of racing year I would try nitrous and rip all the teeth off 3rd gear both times 1 year apart. It was great for what it was.
 

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Running too strong of a clutch is a sure way to destroy a T5 in short order. The Astro Performance A5 gear kit is the best out there and will hold up in a car running mid to high 6's in the 1/8th mile. If you want to shift it above 6500 rpms, you will need to look into having it face plated.
 
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