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I have a suspension problem with my 69 Chevelle. I can't get the car to hook consistanly unless the rear tires have 11 PSI. Any higher PSI and the 60' times and traction become inconsistant. I'm using ET streets 15 x 12.5 x 28 which wrinkle up so much it's effecting my reaction times. They should be run closer to 15 PSI but the car will not hook at that pressure. The rear suspension has some inital separation at launch but not a lot.

Car details:

-Competition engineering 3 way adjustable shocks. Front set : 90 – 10 Back set: 50 – 50
-Moroso Drag springs. Front 47160 Back 125LB rate springs
-Hotchkis upper (adjustable) and lower control arms.
-Moser 12 bolt rear end (with the raised upper control arm mounting location) 4:56 gears. Pinion angle set 3.5 negative degrees.
-28” x 12.5" x 15” E.T. street @ 11 psi.
-Turbo 400 transmission with a trans-brake. Launch RPM 4200 on the rev limiter. The converter will stall to 5000.
-Car weighs 3370 LB with driver.
-Wolfe anti roll bar with no preload
-Engine has ~600 HP at the fly wheel

I'm looking into rear springs with a high spring rate and lowering the rear lower control arm mounting location to move the instant center closer the the rear end.

Anyone have experience in this area?
 

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got any vid ??

You mention raised upper rear control arm location, what are you using for this ?

I have no hop bars on my car in the middle of the three holes. IF I was using a brake I think this setting would result in to much anti squat (hit tires too hard)

What is your performance level, 60' ET, MPH ect.
 

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You mention raised upper rear control arm location, what are you using for this ?
I think he's referring to the fact the Moser housing has a taller location than the factory housing for the upper link mount.

JMRacer, you mention looking into a higher rear spring rate. What is your reasoning behind this? I think many others would chime in along with me and tell you those CE shocks are junk. Get some better shocks so you can actually tune with them.

Also, what location are you thinking about moving for your lower suspension link? The housing mount? Not a good idea as the car will experience "roll steer" like many do with the SSM bars or the "lift bars". The housing will try to drive under the car since the lower links will be angled upward.

Why do you think 11 psi is too high if the car is consistently hooking now? 15 psi is more like drag radial pressure. If you're wrinkling the sidewalls more than you care to, you might have too much anti-squat/seperation in it now and definitely don't need to be looking for more. Plus, that short I/C you're thinking is going to work is going to be too violent with a t-brake. Those shocks you have probably aren't controlling what you're throwing at it now.

P.S. Pinion angle has nothing to do with how the car hooks so, don't try to tune with it.
 

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GO WITH A SET OF COILOVERS THAT ARE ADJUSTABLE. AS MIKE SAID, PINION DOESNT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT HOOKING SO YOU ARE CLOSE AT -3.5 DEGREES. I SET MY BUDDIES UP AT -4.5 DEGREES. WE USE EDELBROCK ADJUSTABLE UPPERS, WITH QA1 12 WAY ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS, WITH THE SAME SPRINGS YOU HAVE AND HAVE 1.48 60 FOOTS.
 

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JMRacer, when you tire of reading opinion from those that think they know who either ain't got a small tire chevelle or got one that don't work, let me know!

In the meantime, the photo, video and signature says it all!;)

Be sure to ask them to post photos/video of their small tire, stock/bolt-on suspension Chevelles cause THE PROOF IS IN THE PERFORMANCE!!
 

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JMRacer, when you tire of reading opinion from those that think they know who either ain't got a small tire chevelle or got one that don't work, let me know!

In the meantime, the photo, video and signature says it all!;)

Be sure to ask them to post photos/video of their small tire, stock/bolt-on suspension Chevelles cause THE PROOF IS IN THE PERFORMANCE!!
 

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JMRacer, when you tire of reading opinion from those that think they know who either ain't got a small tire chevelle or got one that don't work, let me know!

In the meantime, the photo, video and signature says it all!;)

Be sure to ask them to post photos/video of their small tire, stock/bolt-on suspension Chevelles cause THE PROOF IS IN THE PERFORMANCE!!

Boy thats some nice tips for him! You don't quit do you?

I am listening as I have a 66 thats pretty stock in the rear (air bags and 50/50s)
 

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Footbreaker you are such a bitch! Someone asked for help and instead of helping all you do is put everyone else down. Please get that piece of shit chevelle sold and go away.
 

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Dinosaur Mechanic
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I agree on your shocks. replace those comp engineering with something better. does anyone on here have a part number for some rancho rs9000's that will fit the rear of his car?
 

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No surprise the same NOBODIES that don't race a small tire Chevelle responding to MY comments rather than the poster's question!
Well i do race a small tire Chevelle and you ARE a know it all asshole.
 

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Senior Frog
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I have a suspension problem with my 69 Chevelle. I can't get the car to hook consistanly unless the rear tires have 11 PSI. Any higher PSI and the 60' times and traction become inconsistant. I'm using ET streets 15 x 12.5 x 28 which wrinkle up so much it's effecting my reaction times. They should be run closer to 15 PSI but the car will not hook at that pressure. The rear suspension has some inital separation at launch but not a lot.

Car details:

-Competition engineering 3 way adjustable shocks. Front set : 90 – 10 Back set: 50 – 50
-Moroso Drag springs. Front 47160 Back 125LB rate springs
-Hotchkis upper (adjustable) and lower control arms.
-Moser 12 bolt rear end (with the raised upper control arm mounting location) 4:56 gears. Pinion angle set 3.5 negative degrees.
-28” x 12.5" x 15” E.T. street @ 11 psi.
-Turbo 400 transmission with a trans-brake. Launch RPM 4200 on the rev limiter. The converter will stall to 5000.
-Car weighs 3370 LB with driver.
-Wolfe anti roll bar with no preload
-Engine has ~600 HP at the fly wheel

I'm looking into rear springs with a high spring rate and lowering the rear lower control arm mounting location to move the instant center closer the the rear end.

Anyone have experience in this area?
Id switch out the tire,ET Streets are awful....I never could get them to work but we can usually find a drag radial car dead hooking
with MT DragRadials - Drag Radials are faster and more consistant..Shit I didnt even know anyone races ET STreets much anymore...There is alot of reference to changing parts out,rear geometry,springs rates etc etc....With 600HP you car should hook with what you have with just a few tweeks....Maybe launch a little softer
swap to DRs and or Slicks......
 

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No surprise the same NOBODIES that don't race a small tire Chevelle responding to MY comments rather than the poster's question!
Hey Pudwhacker, are you saying I don't have a small-tired Chevelle? What responses have you contributed to the poster's questions other than to ask him to "let you know" you so you can tell him about the "top secret" ladder bar suspension that you claim no one else can buy. Go ahead, dispute any of the advice I gave him as nonsense from someone who's clueless.
 
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