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Discussion Starter #1
I'm currently running a 502 bowtie block and I'm not sure if it has billet mains. The block is .30 over so its 509 with a D2 pro charger on e85. This motor is 15 years old and still running strong and would like to go twin turbo when I pull it.

The plan is to pull the motor soon and billet the mains if not done and build a low boost ( 15-20lbs ) twin turbo set up. I'm shooting for 1000hp + to the tires on e85. The crank and rods in the block are rated to 1500hp, obviously at the crank so if I can reuse them I'd rather not spend money where it's not needed.

If you think it not worth building this block for that much power than I'll buy a Dart block and start from scratch, but I'd like to hear from the guys that have been where I'm at if this type of power level with a bowtie block and billet mains sufficient. From the builds Im seeing you guys do on here mine seems pretty mild.

My questions for the experiences guys is what do you recommend for turbos and why? How do you choose what turbos work best for compression, cams, heads etc?

I drive my car about 20 miles to our local track and often around town.

This is a 3600lb small tire 67 Chevelle that is mostly street driven and taken to the track 4-6 times a year.


If you need more information feel free to ask and I'll get back asap. I'm not in a huge rush to build but I'd like to keep the learning curve going since I'm completely open to a larger single turbo as well. Thank you! Manny
 

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I've never seen a ductile iron main cap break unless there was another issue that caused it. Personally I wouldn't be concerned with using billet steel caps,jmo.
 

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1000 aint much for those cubes. Do it right it wont take more than 12-15 psi im sure.
I think that block shouldbe fine there.

Probably could even do a hyd roller build for longevity and ease of maintenance but street solid roller lobes would def work.
Being more street, if you have the room, borg s471-s475 ’s with the 83 turbine in a t4 would likely get there and be plenty responsive. Bit more money would maybe be a precision 7675 or so, be abit more compact and should get there.
 

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Just be careful of the wall thickness. My stock block 468 (.060' over 454) cracked the cylinder wall 2 times at 15 psi. Two different cylinders. I finally stepped up to a Dart Big M.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Just be careful of the wall thickness. My stock block 468 (.060' over 454) cracked the cylinder wall 2 times at 15 psi. Two different cylinders. I finally stepped up to a Dart Big M.

Thank you for sharing and hopefully the Big M block gives you zero issues.

Do you know If a bowtie 502 block is more stout than a 454 stock block? Or is a bowtie block just a stock block in regards or strength and wall thickness?
 

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Thank you for sharing and hopefully the Big M block gives you zero issues.

Do you know If a bowtie 502 block is more stout than a 454 stock block? Or is a bowtie block just a stock block in regards or strength and wall thickness?
They are better blocks. Siamese cylinders, blind head stud holes to name a few. Will easily make the power you are looking for. At 15 psi it will double the none boosted hp.

Be safe, schick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They are better blocks. Siamese cylinders, blind head stud holes to name a few. Will easily make the power you are looking for. At 15 psi it will double the none boosted hp.

Be safe, schick
Thank you for contributing to the post. I will look up what blind head stud holes are since I've never heard that before. I hope that is a good thing. Manny
 
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