[Fryguy302]

I have a FOX mustang with Strange engineering drag brakes at each corner. I bought the Skinney Kid brake kit that comes with the master cylinder, hardware, etc. The system has been bled and the pads shimmed as needed. The required modifications to the pedal assembly have been completed as well.

For some reason, the FIRST time you hit the pedal, it seems to go a lot lower than subsequent times. The pedal feels great after the first time.

Does anyone else have this issue? Is this just the way the system works, or am I missing something? I've had a few other people look at it.

Thanks for any information.

 

[94ta_lt1]

Exact same thing happened on my car after the strange dual rear brake install. Mine still do it even after bleeding the brakes numerous times with the bleeders up and no air coming out of them.

 

[Fryguy302]

Exact same thing happened on my car after the strange dual rear brake install. Mine still do it even after bleeding the brakes numerous times with the bleeders up and no air coming out of them.

Do you race the car like that, or are you still trying to figure it out? I have a 'chute, but it still makes me nervous.

 

[crazyspeed.com]

I just installed some myself, same exact results, I have been told by others that is just how they are, so I have just been getting used to it.

 

[94ta_lt1]

Do you race the car like that, or are you still trying to figure it out? I have a 'chute, but it still makes me nervous.

Plan to try them out Friday. I have a chute also but still don't like the having to pump the pedal once before it feels firm.

 

[KylePBZ]

We had an issue on a Camaro with Aerospace all the way around. Kept bleeding and re-bleeding and finally got it. What we figured out was to NOT PUMP the brakes up any. Just have the guy inside put pressure on the pedal then crack the bleeder and the rest as usual. It also helped to work on it a while, let it sit for an hour or so, then work some more. Some reason the air that was in there was getting aireated somehow and wouldn't bleed all the way.

 

[Pwraddr]

Definetly seems that there is still air based on the description. BTW, could I ask for the instructions from the kit? [email protected]

 

[nutz4sale]

We had an issue on a Camaro with Aerospace all the way around. Kept bleeding and re-bleeding and finally got it. What we figured out was to NOT PUMP the brakes up any. Just have the guy inside put pressure on the pedal then crack the bleeder and the rest as usual. It also helped to work on it a while, let it sit for an hour or so, then work some more. Some reason the air that was in there was getting aireated somehow and wouldn't bleed all the way.

thats kind of weird but it seems worth a shot.
Mine do the same thing but it does stop really well

 

[KylePBZ]

That one was the same deal, pump it once or twice and it would stop fine but you had to pump it every time you hit the brakes.

 

[Collinsautomotive]

Hook a small hose to the bleeder and open it up all the way. Then put the bleeder into a jug of fluid. Slowly pump the brakes and keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. Get 2-3 quarts of fluid and go at it.

 

[KellyBlackGT]

my aerospace does the same thing and they work like shit. i was thinkin of changing to the strange stuff or wilwood

 

[90Notchlx]

I have Strange Bbrakes on all four corners on my Falcon with there master cylinder and the pedal feels good first hit of the brake. I just installed the same kit to a 69 Mach 1 and had the same problem as you. The pedal felt like crap first pump but then would be good. I just bleed the brake again and again top and bottom bleeders. Then drove it around and bleed them again only doing the top bleeder this time and the pedal feel good now.

 

[Fryguy302]

These are driving me nuts, I bled the #$&*%^@&%@ out of them last night, with no real improvement. Another guy thought the rod for the master should maybe be even longer than recommended in the instructions from SK, anyone have any thoughts on that?

 

[Injected65]

I ran across this with a friends car. He had a no name manual brake conversion and the rod that was included ended up being too short and it wouldn't apply the brakes fully on one stroke. Two or more strokes and it would build up good pressure, but a single stroke and it would feel soft. We ended up with a long bolt cut off and a female heim joint in place of the supplied rod and it worked great.

Chris

 

[Fryguy302]

Re-bled the system again, but this time the INSIDE bleeders were done after the outer ones. Seems to be really good now.

 

[BTbandit]

Bringing this one back. I'm having the same issue. I've bled the inner and outer bleed screws etc.
I have strange all around with duals in the rear. I have the residual valve in place and modified the pedal according to the SK instructions.
What is next? Modify the rod?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ford_fan70]

I have the same problem, mine are areospace on front, I have the strange master clyinder ''aka'' mopar one. I tried the repostioning of the rod like the instructions say, still has a soft pedal the first push down.

 

[ford_fan70]

Has anyone tried to go back to the stock fox master clyinder.

 

[calypso50kid]

same issue but my peddle isnt to bad the first time/

 

[jjohnson]

Big thing is did you all bleed the brakes with the cap off the MC? Straight from skinny kids, I had the same issues you guys are saying and my brakes sucked no matter how many times I bleed them, then I called skinny kids and was told to bleed with the caps off mc. After I did it my peddle is great! just make sure to put a rag over the holes or you will shoot brake fluid all over your engine bay.

Hope that helps.