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· The Warbird
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having a custom set of headers built for my Sunbird/Monza and was wondering if stepped headers are worth the extra cost to have made? My Sunbird has a 406sbc,AFR 227's,.737 lift solid roller,Sonny Bryant crank and GRP aluminum rods that Dynoed at 706hp at the flywheel. I have been restricting the exhaust flow because the only headers I could get to fit out of the box were some 1"5/8 Flotech block huggers that measured 1.415 to 1.430 on the ID of the tubes.
The set I am having built will be 1"3/4 at the primaries, would stepping to 1"7/8 off of the primaries build enough extra torque and horsepower to justify the extra cost??
Anybody experienced with stepped headers your help would be appreciated!!
 

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Dont know who is building your headers but lemmons doesn't charge any extra for stepping the primaries,just got a custom set built for my nova and i'm very pleased with them.
This was my thought...it shouldnt cost any more to have them stepped vs non-stepped. There may be a little bit more work to get the different sizes to fit together, so if you think of that, MAYBE a $100 difference but even that doesnt seem right. I dont charge any extra for stepped.
 

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Just my opinion..I have a set of Dynatech stepped headers. I see nothing more in them than an easy way to manufacture a set of headers. once they bend and swell each tube a monkey can weld'em up (no precise fitting). Selling gimmick..benefit is all theirs from a manufacturing perspective.
 

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Just my opinion..I have a set of Dynatech stepped headers. I see nothing more in them than an easy way to manufacture a set of headers. once they bend and swell each tube a monkey can weld'em up (no precise fitting). Selling gimmick..benefit is all theirs from a manufacturing perspective.
Ill agree Dynatech's are a pretty "run of the mill" type of product, however a good set of stepped headers will make more power. Ask any Comp or PS guys.... Its just more than swedging a piece f tubing though.
 

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I think they shouldn't charge you more for stepped headers. Stepping the tubes is actually easier to fabricate since you don't have to deal with making the butt joints of same size tubing gapless so it can be welded together. Slipping them together then welding is much easier.
 

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Man, if your going to the trouble of having a set built, go with 1-7/8" stepped to 2". That is a pretty stout motor you have in a small car, and it will cover some growth in the future should you decide to add some more stroke or nitrous. 2" all the way out would be better, but would require adapter plates.

JMHO- dont get jacked for more $$ on a stepped header.
 

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they don't step up they step down. It might be a 2.5 off the head and a 2.9 at the collector. Go look under a few.
Ill agree Dynatech's are a pretty "run of the mill" type of product, however a good set of stepped headers will make more power. Ask any Comp or PS guys.... Its just more than swedging a piece f tubing though.
 

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The real answer is..nobody knows. What works on one combo may not be good for your and vice-versa. Unless you have a dyno or lots of track time to test, you'll not get a real picture of what works best for your combination.

After that, consider most dyno's can't factor in gearing, transmission ratios, car weights..etc.

There is no "one size fits all"

Oh..and if you think looking under a Pro-Stock is the answer to what makes power..you should bolt a sheet metal intake with split dominators on your motor..don't change anything else..
 

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I am having a custom set of headers built for my Sunbird/Monza and was wondering if stepped headers are worth the extra cost to have made? My Sunbird has a 406sbc,AFR 227's,.737 lift solid roller,Sonny Bryant crank and GRP aluminum rods that Dynoed at 706hp at the flywheel. I have been restricting the exhaust flow because the only headers I could get to fit out of the box were some 1"5/8 Flotech block huggers that measured 1.415 to 1.430 on the ID of the tubes.
The set I am having built will be 1"3/4 at the primaries, would stepping to 1"7/8 off of the primaries build enough extra torque and horsepower to justify the extra cost??
Anybody experienced with stepped headers your help would be appreciated!!
STAHL should have headers that will fit your car , they are the same as a vega they offer then in kit or fully welded , and i think they offer a step version as well . Hooker has 2" headers as well
 

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A friend of mine used to race a monza the same body style about 6 years ago or so with stock front suspension and a 406 w/ 11x heads and a pro fogger. He ran a set of Kooks 1 7/8 to 2" stepped headers. When he switched to a -12 headed 421 sbc he built his own 2 " headers and both sets fit great. Headers size depends on your specific engine combo but you don't have to settle for 1 3/4 that's for sure.
 

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I am having a custom set of headers built for my Sunbird/Monza and was wondering if stepped headers are worth the extra cost to have made? My Sunbird has a 406sbc,AFR 227's,.737 lift solid roller,Sonny Bryant crank and GRP aluminum rods that Dynoed at 706hp at the flywheel. I have been restricting the exhaust flow because the only headers I could get to fit out of the box were some 1"5/8 Flotech block huggers that measured 1.415 to 1.430 on the ID of the tubes.
The set I am having built will be 1"3/4 at the primaries, would stepping to 1"7/8 off of the primaries build enough extra torque and horsepower to justify the extra cost??
Anybody experienced with stepped headers your help would be appreciated!!
How's it going man. Maybe this will help,

Primary Tube Length:
P=850xED/RPM-3
P= Primary Tube Length
ED= 180+the number of degrees the exhaust valve opens BTDC
RPM= the RPM that you wish to tune the exhaust to (where peak HP is desired)

Inside diameter Equation:
ID=Square Root of[(CC/(P+3)x25)x2.1]
ID= Inside Diameter of primary Tubes
CC= Cylinder Volume in Cubic Centimeters

-Anthony
Nuts & Bolts Racing
 

· The Warbird
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think they shouldn't charge you more for stepped headers. Stepping the tubes is actually easier to fabricate since you don't have to deal with making the butt joints of same size tubing gapless so it can be welded together. Slipping them together then welding is much easier.
They arent charging more for labor, it's just the material cost is more due to having to use 2 kits.
And we are going with the adapter plates, but 2" wont fit in the cramped space that we have to route the headers.
 
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