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I'm looking to put a rack in my 70 camaro does anyone have any pictures of how theirs is put in. Also I'm thinking about cutting out my engine cross member. What kind of bracing should I put back in to keep the strength. Thanks any info would be great.
 

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Im looking to put a rack into my 66 Chevelle, any suggestions on brands?

Also, any tips on putting it into the car? I went down to a chassis shop here in Orange County & they had a few cars there that had racks in them. It appeared to me that he put the rack where it was convenient & not so much with the "ideal" location in mind. I dunno if it matters that much, if any?

thanks a bunch
Bob
 

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the rack mount location is probably the most overlooked area of a racecar.bump steer is very important when it comes to saftey and performance.bumpsteer is the toe change through the suspensions travel.best case no bump is killer,but very hard or impossible to acheive especially when the car was not designed for a rack.i will turn you guys onto a book i got from my father for my b-day about 10 years ago. Chassis Engineering by herb adams.mostly road race stuff but bumpsteer is the same.just remember a little in good <.100,a little out baddddddddddd. :smt018
 

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It's my understanding the rack pivots should be the same centerline as the lower control arms bolts correct?

With say my '79 Malibu, the control arm pivots are much narrower than a standard Pinto rack.

Chris Alston sells custom width racks although their quite expensive at $450+.

I'd like to do a rack install, but have not done so yet due to the bump steer issue and not being sure where to mount the rack.

I can easily make a bent tube crossmember to mount the rack, but how do you know where to mount the rack both vertically and forward/back?

I have seen some rack installs where the rack is far forward and the toe rod ends taper back to reack the spindle arms...would think that would induce bump steer.

Also, it would be nice to drop the rack lower than the stock centerlink for oil pan clearance, but again I question if that's smart as it would again possibly complicate bump steer.

I guess the baseline install point whould be to try and install the rack to where the pivots would line up as close as possible to the factory centerlink?

I'd have to weigh the stock parts, but my thinking is a R&P should drop a few noticable pounds off the front of the car as I'd be eliminating:

- iron manual steering box
- pitman arm
- idler arm
- centerlink
- 4 tie rod ends and adjusters
- stock steering intermediate shaft (replace with .065" wall 3/4" chromoly tube and Flaming river chromoly universal joints.

While on the subject, how important is it to keep some sort of slip shaft arrangement on a drag cars steering column? Many of the real quick cars I see have solid chromoly steering shafts with no slip shafts or collapsable steering columns.

I'd imagine a chromoly steering column would also save even more weight compared to a stock GM steering column.

Didn't mean to butt in on this thread, but felt this info was relavant to the discussion.

Life long do-it-yourselfer/part time fabricator/welder
 

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Ive mounted a rack in my 64 Chevelle. The rack should pivot at the same width as your idler arm did which is about the same as the lower A-arm mounting bolts. I ordered one of the Alstons billet racks at the proper width....problem with that is the pivot point for my car was around 16"(going by memory) being so narrow it puts the input shaft of the rack real close to center of the car & makes it hard to route the sterring shaft to it, I had to notch the front corner of my oil pan & move my rack further forward. moving the rack forward will not cause bumpsteer but will cause Akerman effect. which is when 1 wheel steers further & faster than the other....being cars like ours go straight most of the time it is not much of a problem...I dont notice it driving but it does scuff the tread on the front tires. there were vehicals that came from the factory with akerman effect..some vans come to mind. I have very little bumpsteer & the car goes down the track with no problems. If i did it again I would go with a rack that was a bit wider & the bumpsteer wont be much of a problem with travel limiters.
 
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