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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't get it, flat don't get it. We have multiple race cars. All of them have hi-buck flexplates and various starters. Three of them you hit the starter button and it's like starting a regular street car. But this one, this sob eats everything you throw at it and it's not timing either, 31 degrees. I'm about ready to buy the cheapest damned junk I can find and throw in there and see if that fixes it but I'm so tired of screwing with this stuff, I'm ready to roll it out and burn the damned thing!

Rant over.
 

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T/S 368E
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.

Is it a tunnel ram???
When I started switching my stuff to tunnel rams, I had one engine that kept eating the teeth.
I used a start retard to knock the timing back to ~25* and never had an issue again.

Sometimes it doesn't make sense, you just have to keep plugging away.

Good luck!!

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Discussion Starter #3
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Is it a tunnel ram???
When I started switching my stuff to tunnel rams, I had one engine that kept eating the teeth.
I used a start retard to knock the timing back to ~25* and never had an issue again.

Sometimes it doesn't make sense, you just have to keep plugging away.

Good luck!!

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No tunnel ram, hell the ignition not even on and eats it up.
 

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KEVIN CAPS LOCK
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THE TEETH?
 

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T/S 368E
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If you take a flexplate & starter from one running engine & stick them on this freak ass combination,
I'm going to suggest something is wrong with the block???
Crank has been moved, starter pad has been cut, holes drilled of a cunt hair, something is off enough to put high stress on the teeth??

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I don't get it, flat don't get it. We have multiple race cars. All of them have hi-buck flexplates and various starters. Three of them you hit the starter button and it's like starting a regular street car. But this one, this sob eats everything you throw at it and it's not timing either, 31 degrees. I'm about ready to buy the cheapest damned junk I can find and throw in there and see if that fixes it but I'm so tired of screwing with this stuff, I'm ready to roll it out and burn the damned thing!

Rant over.
How about giving us the low down so maybe we can offer you some tips / help ?
 

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Let's see the numbers OP !!

Vertical clearance and horizontal engagement numbers !!!
 

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Had a friend with a SHP block that had to move his sideways somehow. I was really happy when my Blueprint block worked good, zero problems or shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How about giving us the low down so maybe we can offer you some tips / help ?
I would but I'm tearing it apart and starting over. I think the ring gear is too messed up now and I'll put another pinion gear on the starter along with a new flex plate - cheap one this time.
 

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Try and find one with a leading edge, a beveled tooth of the flexplate like a Mezinger. I had issues until I tried one of theirs. You wont find a factory oem flexplate without beveled starter ramps, but all the race stuff( except the good ones) just incorporate a blunt tooth.
 

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I would but I'm tearing it apart and starting over. I think the ring gear is too messed up now and I'll put another pinion gear on the starter along with a new flex plate - cheap one this time.
Cheap isn't always the better route to take.

After you get your new parts on ...... check the clearances before you try to start the engine.
Also, check your ground and hot side connections.

Hopefully you have the proper size (gauge) wire on both the pos and neg sides and good, solid connections. It's best to run the ground from the battery to the block.
 
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153 tooth flexplate or 168? I run a big block but use the 153, it spins the engine faster. Last several years I’ve been using TCI flexplates with no issues. TCI starter also, no shims.
 

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I had that problem with a Dart Big M block for a while. It would eat starters and flex plate teeth like crazy. Brand new Powermaster Ultra starter it blew a tooth right off it. The engagement was off - too much clearance even with no shims. I called Powermaster and they had me ship the starter back to them with my measurements. They bridgeport milled I think about .020 - .030ish off the starter and then it fit perfectly. Had the perfect tooth contact then with the flex plate . About a thin coat hanger clearance. They said they see that issue all the time with aftermarket blocks. Aftermarket block tooling wears out, and that starter pad ends up not so perfect. The OE blocks maintain that dimension with less variation. Now I've had that same starter on for about 5 years working perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had that problem with a Dart Big M block for a while. It would eat starters and flex plate teeth like crazy. Brand new Powermaster Ultra starter it blew a tooth right off it. The engagement was off - too much clearance even with no shims. I called Powermaster and they had me ship the starter back to them with my measurements. They bridgeport milled I think about .020 - .030ish off the starter and then it fit perfectly. Had the perfect tooth contact then with the flex plate . About a thin coat hanger clearance. They said they see that issue all the time with aftermarket blocks. Aftermarket block tooling wears out, and that starter pad ends up not so perfect. The OE blocks maintain that dimension with less variation. Now I've had that same starter on for about 5 years working perfectly.
Thanks for the info - I'll take a look as this is a Merlin block.
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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I use a drill bit to check clearance. And yes, I have heard of many people with aftermarket block have to take their starter apart and have the mounting block milled down. Guess if you were to simply have .060 to .100 removed you could always shim it away if need be. I always check this stuff on the engine stand with no headers in the way and then crank it with a good battery!
 

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All of the mini starters that I have used needed 2 shims to work properly. Tilton, Powermaster and CSR Platinum all needed 2 shims
 

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Getting the vertical clearance right can be a bitch.
On my GM Sportsman Bowtie block, I had to mill .100 off the tops off both my starter's mounting blocks.
 
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