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i have a 598 shafiroff sportsman motor that kicks back and breaks the starter gears or breaks teeth off the flywheel. I run a digital 7 with a retard, i was told to run a 16volt battery to the starter which i did, i was told theres certain ways you have to fire off a motor of that cubic inch etc. If it starts cant ask for a better running engine but if it it dont and belches and kick back the starter or flywheel is history. So if you can give me any help , or suggestions i would greatly appreciate it. THANK YOU
 

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MSD sells a starter saver that you can use to retard timing while cranking so you can turn the motor over easier. Im not familiar with the digi 7, but you should be able to have timing cut back 10 degrees or so while the engine is under a certain rpm so starting it is easier. I also used to get the motor spinning and then send ignition to it.
 

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God's servant Romans 13:4
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Make sure you have the rotor phased correctly. Then make sure you don't have the start retard more the 10°. You aren't using a separate start retard correct?

Is it injected, carbed, alky, gas? Are you using a primer? Total advance?
 

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Make sure you have the rotor phased correctly. Then make sure you don't have the start retard more the 10°. You aren't using a separate start retard correct?

Is it injected, carbed, alky, gas? Are you using a primer? Total advance?
i had this problem this year with a high compression 468. went through 4 starter gears and 4 flexplates and probably knocked off about 10 years of my life!! lol. the fix for me was a timing retard ( no more than 10 degrees) and one thing most people over look is the size of your main power wire.

it all depends on how far your battery is from the starter.basically the length of the power wire. i was running 4 gauge and needed a "0" ought..pretty big damn wire that i had to buy at a semi truck parts store.

if you dont have the right size wire you will have too much voltage drop.

another thing it could be is starter shimming
 

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Double check you starter make sure it is shimmed correctly. Too much or too little will cause the problem. Don't spend any money on start retard until you are sure starter is located in proper position. Use a large paper clip to measure four locations on flywheel for starter gear clearance. I run a 598 with 16-1 comp with a 12 volt starter. It turns it just fine. Spins motor fast with no kickback.
 

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7531 has a built in retard...i have mine set at 5 out....are you running a crank trigger?ever don a cranking compression test?

teeth mesh can cause this as was said already...i swapped to 139tooth flywheel from jw,it has large teeth like a mopar..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
its carb, locked in at 32 dgrees, I use 12volt to run the car and hit the cylinoid then i have a 16 volt battery witha cable big as your thumb spinning the starter only so it spins pretty good. That is how i start it is by spinning it then hitting the ign. It seams like theres a fine line of giving it enough fuel to start or not. Had some guys at the strip tell me to pump the pedal once or twiceand whip it over then stop, then start whipping it again and hit the ign so it has fuel in the cylinders. The dig 7 has a built in retard and it is set over 10 degrees. What do you mean about rotar phased correctly. And what four places do you check the starter to the flywheel. thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #10
no crank trigger, never done a cranking compression test, Ive tried every flywheel on the market except meziere but there 168 tooth. I check the teeth of the flywheel to the starter but just in one place where the they come together by pushing them together with a screw driver, checking the gap with a paper clip. Never thought of using 139 tooth flywheel
 

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No phasing needed if you don't have a crank trigger. I think your timing is way off. Have you switched the wires to make sure you have the most advanced reading?
 

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its carb, locked in at 32 dgrees, I use 12volt to run the car and hit the cylinoid then i have a 16 volt battery witha cable big as your thumb spinning the starter only so it spins pretty good. That is how i start it is by spinning it then hitting the ign. It seams like theres a fine line of giving it enough fuel to start or not. Had some guys at the strip tell me to pump the pedal once or twiceand whip it over then stop, then start whipping it again and hit the ign so it has fuel in the cylinders. The dig 7 has a built in retard and it is set over 10 degrees. What do you mean about rotar phased correctly. And what four places do you check the starter to the flywheel. thanks guys
What I mean by four places on flywheel: Pull starter gear out by hand or with something to pry it out, so it is engaged to the flywheel. Check the clearance between the starter tooth and flywheel using a large paper clip .060". If it fits in fine not too tight or too loose. Rotate engine 90deg and repeat, rotate 90 repeat. they won't all be the same but if you get a couple of good fits you should be OK. If the motor is timed correctly and starter is shimmed to correct tolerance you should not have to use a retard. Like I said earlier my 598 16-1 starts just fine with NO retard and I run 12 volts
 

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I'm with Miller.. I have a 555 14:1 Pontiac and have had the same starter and fly wheel on it since I started racing.. No issues, no back fire no retard.. I put my oldman's 500" Pro Stock style motor in when my Pontiac was down and it started just as good.. Could have used a retard on it but it still started fine.

Sounds to me like it's either a timing issue or maybe a clearance issue.. Does it do it whether the motor is hot or cold?
 

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try no starter retard..... as crazy as it sounds... have had some big blocks that didnt like any start retard......
I've had the same problem as the OP, and I've been told the same thing. Take out all the start retard. I have mine set at 10* also. I was told that it's actually trying to fire one cylinder at the wrong time. Which seems to be the case. It always wants to kick back at the same spot. "crank, crank, crank, ouch!"
 

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I've had the same problem as the OP, and I've been told the same thing. Take out all the start retard. I have mine set at 10* also. I was told that it's actually trying to fire one cylinder at the wrong time. Which seems to be the case. It always wants to kick back at the same spot. "crank, crank, crank, ouch!"
Makes sense!!!
 

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Something is way wrong here, this shouldn't be happening! NO need for 16v stuff either. Start with the basics, check the timing and phasing, just because it doesn't have a crank trigger doesn't mean you can't have a phasing problem! How much start retard? Try none at first then 5 then 10. What kind of starter, where's the battery? How much voltage do you have at the starter when it's cranking which equals is your bat cable big enough.

Try/answer these first. You have something stupid wrong that's causing this.
 

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its carb, locked in at 32 degrees, I use 12volt to run the car and hit the solenoid then i have a 16 volt battery with cable big as your thumb spinning the starter only so it spins pretty good. That is how i start it is by spinning it then hitting the sign. It seams like theres a fine line of giving it enough fuel to start or not. Had some guys at the strip tell me to pump the pedal once or twice and whip it over then stop, then start whipping it again and hit the sign so it has fuel in the cylinders. The dig 7 has a built in retard and it is set over 10 degrees. What do you mean about rotary phased correctly. And what four places do you check the starter to the flywheel. thanks guys
Have a buddy with a small block that was having this issue and he had his timing lock at 38 deg. All we did was got rid of the locked timing and gave it 10 deg of centrifugal and had total by 3800 rpm and it cured his problem. Just a thought..
 

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i just went through a simular deal last year had my many year old tilton super starter well battery seemed weak and started kicking back so i bought a new battery it seemed to be better couple months later seemed weak again kicking back etc chowed few teeth off flexplate so i put new flexplate in and starter gear on starter all seemed well not quite year went by same shit again started kicking back popping grinding etc chowed teeth off again i bought a new msd starter f* never cranked so fast good here bendex etc in starter had been worn and getting weak seemed to be my issue
 
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