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can you be more clear for dummy like me what you mean by "50 degrees down and the remove the plugs or the strap will tear off" Do you mean you have to put the piston down in the hole before you remove the plug on that cylinder or the strap will tear off as you unscrew the plug?
You got it ..In Superstock we angle mill the face of the head down to get the CC's exactly to what we are allowed.The spark plug hole ends up being way deeper than it originally started out being.
 

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Takes 17 average horsepower to make a tenth on a 3300 car. At least that's the number we have been using. Seems dead on with our stuff.
On some of our engines, we need to put the engine @ 50 degrees down and then remove the plugs or it will tear the strap off the plug. I forgot to index our spare motor once and after one pass it quit firing on 4 cylinders. It had smashed the electrodes shut.

I guess that I am understanding this wrong? Are you saying that 17 more HP will buy you a .10 drop in ET?

If yes, at what base power level?
 

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You got it ..In Superstock we angle mill the face of the head down to get the CC's exactly to what we are allowed.The spark plug hole ends up being way deeper than it originally started out being.
thanks for the explanation about the angel milling of the heads being the reason / issue.
 

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I guess that I am understanding this wrong? Are you saying that 17 more HP will buy you a .10 drop in ET?

If yes, at what base power level?
Yes 17 horsepower will pick us up a tenth. For our stuff, and everything is worked out, transmission and rear gearing, convertor,shocks, ceramic bearings throughout drive train ect., going from 615 to 635 will pick us up almost exactly a tenth and 2 MPH . This is on a 3000 -3200 lbs car .Keep in mind if this car is a peanut car (Cavalier/Cobalt), the calculation will be a little better as the aerodynamics coefficient is better.
Its the same thing with weight. 100 pounds is a tenth on our Camaro, where the peanut cars it only takes about 80 -90 because of their slickness and they usually run a little lighter class than we do. But not always. Hope I've confused you well.. LOL.
 

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wanger 714

Pretty accurate
sorry I meant to use 17hp

3300lb 500hp 10.84

3300lb 517hp 10.72
 

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i indexed with the hook of the plug facing upward and as mentioned between 11 and 1 so to speak
i had much better luck using the thinnest washer with NGK plugs
right now i switched to brisk plugs and don't even worry about it
so much easier
 

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Discussion Starter #49
i indexed with the hook of the plug facing upward and as mentioned between 11 and 1 so to speak
i had much better luck using the thinnest washer with NGK plugs
right now i switched to brisk plugs and don't even worry about it
so much easier
Do you cut off the original plug washer, or do you just add a shim washer on top of the existing plug washer when indexing?
 

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Do you cut off the original plug washer, or do you just add a shim washer on top of the existing plug washer when indexing?
I do not cut off the original washer.But I do make sure it is compressed (by torquing it to 18 ft lbs) fully before starting my indexing. Thats what I do right or wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I do not cut off the original washer.But I do make sure it is compressed (by torquing it to 18 ft lbs) fully before starting my indexing. Thats what I do right or wrong
Thanks Dom, I was confused about that since the only one who said to cut the original washer was Summit.
 

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I have one of those thick nuts threaded for sparkplugs, I stamped #'s on it corresponding to the locations of each cylinder for a properly indexed plug.

Once you find a plug that indexes just right in your cylinder head, screw it into the big nut and mark the nut with a #.

It's a lot faster to check for index on the bench with one of those vs screwing them I to the heads over and over hoping to find a good fit.

Makes it waaay easier and quicker (y)
 

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i indexed with the hook of the plug facing upward and as mentioned between 11 and 1 so to speak
i had much better luck using the thinnest washer with NGK plugs
right now i switched to brisk plugs and don't even worry about it
so much easier
I looked up those Brisk plugs.Looks Like there would be no need to index them for piston clearance (between 11 & 1 ) like I have to do. I would be interested in trying a set, They would save me a lot of time when changing my plugs. How do you gap them is my question
 
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