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Discussion Starter #1
i posted this on lets talk drag racing forum and was told to put it on here...just wondering what ya guys thought , i would love some advice , and or constructive criticism. This is only the 2nd head i have ever done so be gentle..the pics are of a bbc 820 casting head-exhaust port
 

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Looks pretty good. The second pic looks like it has some pumps in it? Looks like it could use a little more width. Hard to tell with the pic, but not bad over-all. Keep working on the shape, should be fine.

T-flow
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks pretty good. The second pic looks like it has some pumps in it? Looks like it could use a little more width. Hard to tell with the pic, but not bad over-all. Keep working on the shape, should be fine.

T-flow
In second pic. The bump on the left is from the a head bolt protruding into the port..I have knocked it down a considerable amount ..scared to go any further..I am still working on the shape in the bowl area..kinda odd to begin with....thanks for the feedback
 

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Looks pretty good. Did you or were you able to flow the head before you started and after so you can see what the porting did for the head? Would love to see numbers if you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks pretty good. Did you or were you able to flow the head before you started and after so you can see what the porting did for the head? Would love to see numbers if you did.
lol i wish..i am basically just a kid- getting my hands dirty..i am doing all this work with a 5 gallon air compressor that cant even keep up..i would love to have had these flowed to really see if i was gaining anything..i just bought a couple head books and read on here..then got me a set of carbides and went at it.other than that i have no knowledge or prior experience..thats why i love yellowbullet..lots of good info

.whenever i do get these done and on the motor i will let ya know how the car runs compared to before.
 

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Apex on the Floor and Roof where that bolt hole is, could be shaped out alittle better. Looks to be alot of material there where Im talking about. If you look at the side wall, you have ground it back(in the center,left side of the port) but to the Floor and Roof has some bumps.
That is where it could use some attention, transistion into that wall per-say. Hope that helps. Good Luck


T-flow
 

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lol i wish..i am basically just a kid- getting my hands dirty..i am doing all this work with a 5 gallon air compressor that cant even keep up..i would love to have had these flowed to really see if i was gaining anything..i just bought a couple head books and read on here..then got me a set of carbides and went at it.other than that i have no knowledge or prior experience..thats why i love yellowbullet..lots of good info

.whenever i do get these done and on the motor i will let ya know how the car runs compared to before.

Keep after it, thats how we all started, just when I was a kid it was all iron stuff and its sucked LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Apex on the Floor and Roof where that bolt hole is, could be shaped out alittle better. Looks to be alot of material there where Im talking about. If you look at the side wall, you have ground it back(in the center,left side of the port) but to the Floor and Roof has some bumps.
That is where it could use some attention, transistion into that wall per-say. Hope that helps. Good Luck


T-flow
yeah i definitely need to spend more time getting rid of bumps..and as far as metal removal i have taken a decent amount out on these areas , i am just now getting nervous about getting into water..i will however take your advice and see what i can do-take it very slow lol...
say i do get into water , is the head done or can throw some epoxy or what not on it?


chad , thanks for the advice. At this point its got the stock valve job-what would you recommend for a valve job?
 

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Keep after it, thats how we all started, just when I was a kid it was all iron stuff and its sucked LOL
Boy that is the damn truth, alot of folks including myself turned some iron heads into scrap;)
 

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Great job getting your feet wet. iron heads can be brazed if you get into water, we all have done that. But add a sonic tester to your inventory of tools if your going to get into this sport and do your own motors. It takes alot of guessing out of the equation. I have got my walls of exhaust ports done to .040 and come back to bite me in the ass after years of internal rusting from not running antifreeze so think about that also. You'll learn to be a welder also and can use a propane grill to preheat iron heads for brazing in the future. BBC and heads with non integeral guides can have extensive roof and guide repairs,with the guide removed you can even get inside around the exhaust port for repairs so nothing becomes junk if you work at it. Expoxy should not be used for plugging up water leaks you can ruin a complete motor from hydro locking. Use expoxy for just build ups only. Your on your way yellowbullet will help keep the bumps off you head.
 

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lol i wish..i am basically just a kid- getting my hands dirty..i am doing all this work with a 5 gallon air compressor that cant even keep up..i would love to have had these flowed to really see if i was gaining anything..i just bought a couple head books and read on here..then got me a set of carbides and went at it.other than that i have no knowledge or prior experience..thats why i love yellowbullet..lots of good info

.whenever i do get these done and on the motor i will let ya know how the car runs compared to before.

I'm in the same boat as you with chassis work! I've been around the block many times already though, and have decided I want to do what I love for my "retirement" instead of what I have to do to get by. I just haven't done enough to be where I need to be with it! So keep it up, take the time to learn as much as you can about what you need to do, take classes when you can, and most of all never ever get discouraged! You've got a great start now you just need to build on it!
 

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You can take the bolt boss completely out if you want to. Ran head studs exposed in the port on more than one motor. The vane is a little fat and a biased to the left at tad it looks like. Narrow it up a bit on the left side there. It looks like the bowl area is wider on the right than on the left. You can also shorten it a tad. A helpful hint.. The more of the back of the valve you can see the better. Don't lower the floor raise the roof. Rework the short side radius and lay it back some but be careful going to far, there's water there. The head needs to be valve jobbed with where your port work is now. 45 degree seat .060 wide. Top angle about 37 degrees .150 wide. Bottom angle 60 degrees .080 or so wide. When your working your porting into the valve job, the only angle you should see is the seat itself. Couple more hints. Find some junk valves and have them ground till the margin is gone. Use these as seat protectors when doing chamber work. A 3/8's diameter round nose cylinder burr is awesome for deshrouding the valves on the side walls of the chamber and the nose of the burr makes a really nice radius down into the top angle of the valve job. 3/8's by 1.5 inch cartridge rolls in 60 and 120 grit work awesome on polishing cast iron too fwiw.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey thanks guys for all of the advice and encouragement. I am 23 and in an apprenticeship with ford to become a ford technician..look to becoming a master tech someday..but my real passion is performance stuff..specifically motors ..i love adding horsepower with knowledge rather than money ( hence porting the heads myself)...you guys have given me alot of info ..i will do my best to digest and even understand some of it..like i said its all new to me , but even with it taking forever i still enjoy it.

one thing i should mention with these heads and why it may look odd...
-say your looking into the head from the combustion chamber side with the valve out..looking down the throat and to the right is a gentle/flat radius into the port and out of the head..on the left said there is a big drop off about 3/8 after the valve seat..this is how it was to start..and is also why some of it seems off or no symetrical..i could make it symetrical but that would require removing alot of metal from the right side..kinda scares me and by doing that it will make my throat to valve size comparison more than .90 ( which is the most my book recommended)

any thoughts on that?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One thing about it, you can't ever call yourself a head porter until you have ported iron! I have a couple sets out there I have 150+ hours in. I'm talking 10 hours a day type stuff. Boy I cringe just thinking about that! :)
how much quicker is aluminum?..

yeah and i am porting these heads for free for my brother..they are also my heads which i am basically giving him for free..i just wanted the learning experience, but now that its taking me so long i am starting to second guess it lol
 

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Ohh it's way quicker. Lol. You can use the high helix burrs instead of the double cuts. Btw hope you are using a full face shield, gloves, and a long sleeve shirt.
 
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