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You guys that are adding zinc to your oil are just throwing money away. First, with all the specialty oils on the market today, if you're using an oil that you think you need to add something to, you're using the wrong oil. Second, adding zinc to oil is like adding sugar to iced tea. Anyone from the south knows that when you make sweet tea, you add the sugar to the tea when it's hot while you're making it. Same with zinc. It needs to be added to the oil when its blended at the refinery during the high temp and pressures of the process. Zinc does not blend with your oil in the oil pan and just goes out with the next oil change...not to mention that there are about a dozen or more types of zinc. Third, the oil manufacturers spend a lot of time and money coming up with the precise blends of zinc, detergent, calcium and other ingredients in your oil and unless you're a chemist or tribologist, more times than not, you could be doing more harm than good. Break in oils are specially formulated for exactly that; break in and they are not all the same. I've been watching/listening/learning from Lake Speed Jr for years as he helped develop the Joe Gibbs, now Driven line of oil products. Lake is a wealth of knowledge and a very open book to his testing and results. I wouldn't use anything but their break in oil and their Hot Rod line is specifically formulated for older "hot rods" with flat tappet cams. Their new GP1 oil is based on a true Pennsylvania crude base and has been tested and proven to be one of the best oils on the market.
 

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It should work. You’re only turning it 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. I used Shubecks to break it in, then, after 20 min. I took off the intake, and put in the Johnson lifters, after the cam had been polished, and after 600 miles, no change in valve settings. All at 140# closed. But I also used the proper oil. And that’s critical. But, I think your way is fine.
You broke in the cam with one set of lifters, then changed the lifters after you broke it in? :oops:
 

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You guys that are adding zinc to your oil are just throwing money away. First, with all the specialty oils on the market today, if you're using an oil that you think you need to add something to, you're using the wrong oil. Second, adding zinc to oil is like adding sugar to iced tea. Anyone from the south knows that when you make sweet tea, you add the sugar to the tea when it's hot while you're making it. Same with zinc. It needs to be added to the oil when its blended at the refinery during the high temp and pressures of the process. Zinc does not blend with your oil in the oil pan and just goes out with the next oil change...not to mention that there are about a dozen or more types of zinc. Third, the oil manufacturers spend a lot of time and money coming up with the precise blends of zinc, detergent, calcium and other ingredients in your oil and unless you're a chemist or tribologist, more times than not, you could be doing more harm than good. Break in oils are specially formulated for exactly that; break in and they are not all the same. I've been watching/listening/learning from Lake Speed Jr for years as he helped develop the Joe Gibbs, now Driven line of oil products. Lake is a wealth of knowledge and a very open book to his testing and results. I wouldn't use anything but their break in oil and their Hot Rod line is specifically formulated for older "hot rods" with flat tappet cams. Their new GP1 oil is based on a true Pennsylvania crude base and has been tested and proven to be one of the best oils on the market.
Is GP1 like the old Brad Penn
 

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You broke in the cam with one set of lifters, then changed the lifters after you broke it in? :oops:
Yes, but using shubecks, and changing lifters is not the same as using one set, then going to another. The cam doesn’t develop a pattern. It is just polished. I got this advice from a well known cam designer at Bullet cams. And it worked perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I know there was a period of time circa 2005-2010 where they pulled the zddp additives out of the available oils, and at the same time there was an issue of a lifter company going out of business or something. At that time I was running in a class that had max lift flat tappet rules. I was taking VR1 10w30, dumping that in a bucket and mixing it with GM OES additive, then dumping it in my engine. Also, I have a couple sets of very expensive EDM hole lifters laying around that I'll probably never use again lol. I don't remember for sure... but I think I was around 225-250 seat pressure. I didn't have any cam/lifter issues but I did use lightweight springs for break-in. I was always scared of the schubeck lifters, and there was also diamond-like coatings that were being run in nascar at the time. But the DLC coatings were risky as if they flaked off the lifter face it would destroy the motor.
 

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Yes, but using shubecks, and changing lifters is not the same as using one set, then going to another. The cam doesn’t develop a pattern. It is just polished. I got this advice from a well known cam designer at Bullet cams. And it worked perfectly.
I understand the concept, just not sure what it accomplishes. The lifter and cam will still "mate" in a break in process after you go to all that trouble.
 

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So Scott by using say lucas racing oil plus zinc is a total waste? I know that oil has alot of it in plus molybdenum.I only add during break in
 

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So Scott by using say lucas racing oil plus zinc is a total waste? I know that oil has alot of it in plus molybdenum.I only add during break in
If you're using the oil the way it was formulated, that's fine. Adding more zinc to it is a waste. My recommendation is to use a purpose-made break in oil.
I think "zinc" is probably one of the most mis-used, mis-understood words in the whole "oil" discussion these days.
 

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I understand the concept, just not sure what it accomplishes. The lifter and cam will still "mate" in a break in process after you go to all that trouble.
I don’t know. All I know is it worked. I know they have to mate, but, as he explained, the most critical part of the mating, is while the cam lobe is being polished. That takes it out of the scenario. So, that’s all I know.
 

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Tool steel core and a dlc coated lifter solves all this bs!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Awhile back when I was messing with limited lift stuff, DLC was an option. But as I said earlier at the time it was still hit and miss as far as quality, or so I was told. If it failed you had that hard abrasive stuff through your whole motor.
 

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Break In Oils
Lake Speed at Total Seal goes over the in/outs of break in oils. There's more to it than ZDDP. Some additives are NOT good for break in. They do not recommend a specific brand, but let you know what is GOOD for break in, and what is NOT. They also show a link for test results of a bunch of oils commonly used for break in, as well as specific break in oils. VERY good watch.

This is the link to the oil analysis, and below that that video showing what is good and bad for break in. Below that is a video on proper break in procedure.


 

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So Driven BR40 for break in then switch to Driven GP1?
I'm not going to say I know what oil is right for your application. GP1 is a semi synthetic. I don't have enough experience to say when someone should run a full syn or semi syn. I use the BR in every engine I build...that's a given for me and then it's going to be one of the Driven oils but I usually defer to "the" expert for the best choice. The GP1 has shown to be better in every category and even make more power in testing against comparable oils but whether or not it's the ideal oil for a specific build, I can't tell you.
 
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