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I have some break in springs that are old cast off inner springs that have served me well. For this latest engine, the retainer diameter didn't permit their use so I used some other inner springs. These had less pressure than my old break in springs but I was in a hurry lol...but now I'm second guessing.

These springs have 60# seat and 170# at max lift. Is this enough spring or should I shim them up to 80#/180, or more?

Thanks
 

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What I did when I had a solid lifter cam for my 468 FE, was to use just the outer spring sold to me with the cam for the break in and then install the inner spring later, you just have to keep from revving it to high, worked for me. Don't remember the pressures.
 

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It should work. You’re only turning it 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. I used Shubecks to break it in, then, after 20 min. I took off the intake, and put in the Johnson lifters, after the cam had been polished, and after 600 miles, no change in valve settings. All at 140# closed. But I also used the proper oil. And that’s critical. But, I think your way is fine.
 

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I have some break in springs that are old cast off inner springs that have served me well. For this latest engine, the retainer diameter didn't permit their use so I used some other inner springs. These had less pressure than my old break in springs but I was in a hurry lol...but now I'm second guessing.

These springs have 60# seat and 170# at max lift. Is this enough spring or should I shim them up to 80#/180, or more?

Thanks
What engine?
 

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Id feel better if you had at least 100 lbs on the seat and about 200 open for break in.
Your not zinging the thing past 2500 but id want to make sure that lifter doesn't leave the lobe.
Just my opinion.
 

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What oil would any of you recommend for break in ? Ive read that Amsoil Z-ROD works well for flat tappets. Thanks
 

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I have some break in springs that are old cast off inner springs that have served me well. For this latest engine, the retainer diameter didn't permit their use so I used some other inner springs. These had less pressure than my old break in springs but I was in a hurry lol...but now I'm second guessing.

These springs have 60# seat and 170# at max lift. Is this enough spring or should I shim them up to 80#/180, or more?

Thanks
I would be concerned that you don't have enough spring load to properly burnish the lobe. You may want to start with those springs, run it for 20-30 minutes then find some that will give you 250-275 lbs open, then run it another 20-30.
A Cleveland has fairly large cam journals so your nose radius will be generous enough you be safe even at 300 lbs open for the second phase.
 

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What oil would any of you recommend for break in ? Ive read that Amsoil Z-ROD works well for flat tappets. Thanks
I personally wouldn’t run any type synthetic oil, especially for breaking in a flat tappet. Sometimes, it’s so slick, it doesn’t allow the lifter to spin. And good regular oil designed for break in of flat tappet cams would work.
 

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What oil would any of you recommend for break in ? Ive read that Amsoil Z-ROD works well for flat tappets. Thanks
Driven BR40 is perfect for break-in... even if it's NOT a flat tappet. Has the right mix to seat the rings correctly. Probably the best out there. $7.99/qt

Lucas has an extremely affordable Break In oil that is perfect for flat tappet cams. It's the best deal in break in oils at $31.99 for a 5 quart jug! Highly rated and cheap.

With oils like this available, there's no need to mess with additives, etc that may or may not work or be formulated correctly.
 

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What is you open pressure of springs to be used?Pretty much all i work is Clevelands.Never used breakin springs once. Never had cam failure either. I do have cam broke in by cam research though.
 

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I was just wondering if a hard billet core breaks in any different than a cast core? Never thought about it!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What is you open pressure of springs to be used?Pretty much all i work is Clevelands.Never used breakin springs once. Never had cam failure either. I do have cam broke in by cam research though.
I'm around 170 on the seat, 425 over the nose, if I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Id feel better if you had at least 100 lbs on the seat and about 200 open for break in.
Your not zinging the thing past 2500 but id want to make sure that lifter doesn't leave the lobe.
Just my opinion.
Thanks for the feedback. I talked to crane and they recommended around 80 on the seat and at least 180 over the nose. I did some shimming on the exhausts and am around that. The intakes I'm at 100/220.
 

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I personally wouldn’t run any type synthetic oil, especially for breaking in a flat tappet. Sometimes, it’s so slick, it doesn’t allow the lifter to spin. And good regular oil designed for break in of flat tappet cams would work.
Driven BR40 is perfect for break-in... even if it's NOT a flat tappet. Has the right mix to seat the rings correctly. Probably the best out there. $7.99/qt

Lucas has an extremely affordable Break In oil that is perfect for flat tappet cams. It's the best deal in break in oils at $31.99 for a 5 quart jug! Highly rated and cheap.

With oils like this available, there's no need to mess with additives, etc that may or may not work or be formulated correctly.
thanks guys. appreciated
 

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Well its your call. But at that pressure I’ve never ran a light spring. Just the way it is. 20/50 race oil with zinc additive. No issues ever.
 
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