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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

ive got a few pics of the head gasket of my blow thru boosted holden 6 (202ci), it is basicly a small chev inline six.

im just wondering if somebody could shed some light on the black marks on the head gasket as they are on the block aswell?. it has been pressurising the cooling system and filling the over flow tank..

ive only torqued the head studs down once (cold) im wondering if there is a proper way to torque the head down when using a solid copper gasket the block has orings, what kind of sealer do most people use on the gasket?.

the engine is running 98 octane pump gas,with 8.8to1 and 14psi boost.and im using a snow performance mist kit on the intake .


 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah Ash, the damn thing is detonating..... and lifting the head as u can see on cyl 5 is pretty bad.. im not sure on why its detonating atm though.. looking to put it on e85 next time..

Cheers H
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its running pretty wide ring gaps and im afraid alot of fuel will get past the rings and it still gets driven mostly on the street..
 

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What your seeing is carbon tracking. In between the cylinders isn't really unusual. Copper gaskets need to be retorqued after a heat cycle. The first heat cycle will conform the gasket and then it needs to be retorqued. If you mark your head studs or bolts you will usually see about another 1/4-1/2 turn after the retorque, which depending on your thread pitch is a decent amount of movement.

Not familiar with the holden straight 6 but I am familiar with a toyota 2jz which is another straight 6 design engine. They usually hurt cylinder number 5 and 6. My opinion is these cylinders are in the back of the engine and don't receive the coolant flow that the front cylinders do, so in order to run equal timing in all cylinders modifications need to be done to the cooling system to reduce the temperature delta found in the head. If no mods are done and individual cylinder timing can be controlled then 2-3 degrees should probably be pulled from these cylinders. This applies to gas use, if using alcohol or meth, combustion temperatures will be significantly cooler and these mods might not be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Mate

ok so the re torque is it advisable to loosen the nut (arp studs) and then retorque or just keep the tension on the stud?..

Arh yes about the coolant flow there also could be another area that is influincing this heat is it has a demon type carb with a modified intake manifold and they always run lean cyl 2 and 5 possible fuel not entering intake port properly as it has a 9 port head (simeased intake ports) as the manifold has curves just as it enters the intake ports. if that makes sence.

Cheers H
 

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Thanks Mate

ok so the re torque is it advisable to loosen the nut (arp studs) and then retorque or just keep the tension on the stud?..

Arh yes about the coolant flow there also could be another area that is influincing this heat is it has a demon type carb with a modified intake manifold and they always run lean cyl 2 and 5 possible fuel not entering intake port properly as it has a 9 port head (simeased intake ports) as the manifold has curves just as it enters the intake ports. if that makes sence.

Cheers H
Yes, when you put it back together with a fresh head gasket spray it with copper coat just so it will seal the water. Get the engine up to full operating temperature, not just the water temperature but allow the oil temp to get up there, this means that the entire engine has actual heat in the material. Then let the engine fully cool down, this will probably take 8-12 hours. Come back the next day and loosen and retorque each individual stud. If you want to see how much it moves just mark it with a sharpie. I have seen it done 2 or 3 times before you don't get anymore movement out of the stud.

If distribution is an issue, it would be best to have individual timing control on the cylinders. If thats not in the cards, just gotta tune off the worst cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok thanks mate i will do that.,

i also forgot to mention the block has a little grout in it just up to the bottom of the core plugs..

Cheers H
 

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i use white 3 bond to seal the water holes .
we had dramas with a mates 202 lifting the head (30psi) had to receiver groove the block & put the o rings in the head with i think it was 14 thou protrusion , retorque after warm up & it was good to go .
was a meth engine tho so big tuning window with no detonation
 

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backinaeight inch dick,

if you knew how to help the sealing issue,

then you would have told him..

but obviously, you dont know anything about how to help, so you can only cum up with this sort of shit answer....

I answered the o.p. question privately a couple of days ago...
 

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backinaeight inch dick,

if you knew how to help the sealing issue,

then you would have told him..

but obviously, you dont know anything about how to help, so you can only cum up with this sort of shit answer....

I answered the o.p. question privately a couple of days ago...
no you fucking assmunching oxygen theif , i did offer some advice if you could read without a tutor you may have seen it .
now as for you giving him advice maybe i should phone him & make sure he aint silly enough to pay any attention to it .
shove your head up your own ass & fart you worthless jackass , you may hear some advice up there that you would like to share with us
 

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and so You can ACTUALLY DO THE WORK...???


RIGHT...!!!

but then you seemingly cannot remember the amount of wire that sticks out past the flat deck surface ???

this is because all that you have done is re post something that someone ELSE has spoken about....



..





your head is up your own ass as usual...
 

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and so You can ACTUALLY DO THE WORK...???


RIGHT...!!!

but then you seemingly cannot remember the amount of wire that sticks out past the flat deck surface ???

this is because all that you have done is re post something that someone ELSE has spoken about....


your head is up your own ass as usual...
funnily enough yes i do build my own cars & engines etc .
no i dont tune the efi on my cars , i know my limitations ....you dont seem to know yours .
i build the car , screw the engine together & tell my tuner " make enough power for it to run this number "
put the bottle or syringe down for a moment & consider your rep on this forum dickcheese .......every thread you go in you spew crap outta your mouth like you are the be all & end all of the drag racing community yet all i know of you doing is a junior dragster :confused:
give it a rest , put down the crack pipe & stop acting like the now it all prick you have been fuckwitt.
..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I answered the o.p. question privately a couple of days ago...

arh dont want to burst ur bubble but i only have the messages u sent today mate..

thanks for the advise all..

Cheers H
 

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sorry backin in 8 inches..

you only know what others pundits have said about what they know about me.....
and those people do not know all of the various types engines that I machine and build in my well equipped shop.......sorry that you have been mis-informed..
....or only want to hear what you want to hear...

yes, I certainally build a large number of junior dragster engines..along with numerious two and four cylinder stadium class engines
along with lots of sprint car stuff..

and dont forget about the drag race engines..

you only know ,
what the people that spew stuff ,
.....know about me...

and they dont know much about me...

..or what my shop capabilities are...

the local legit engine shops around the local area all know very well about my special shop along with my "at the race track" services...

sorry again, you have been mis-informed...
or that you only wanna hear what you wanna hear...

maybe you should back down away from the crack pipe....
 
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