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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I sold the turbo kit for my 69 camaro without running it. I changed engines and wasn't going to use the turbo downpipe wastegate or bov so having the kit didn't make sense anymore. It had 1.87 primaries, 2.5 crossover with t4 flange.

The setup is a 1969 camaro, 370 lq4 9.7-9.9 compression, tbss manifold, 243 heads, tremec 6 speed close ratio, quick performance 9 inch with 3.50 gear ratio. Currently has 27 inch tires but might go to 28.

I was thinking of using self up and forward headers with 1 5/8 primaries to a 2 or 2 1/4 crossover with t6 . Im looking to run a single borg s480 (ar to be determined). Goal is 800 rwhp on 93. My concern is spool time because I plan to have this car see a lot of street time. My buddy can weld the crossover for me but he does 4 cyl stuff so I want to make sure the sizing is right. Looking for some technical help. I read the thread on ls1 tech that people get linked to: Out of curiousity why does everyone use 2.5" on the crossover pipe - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion . There are a lot of opinions on what works so im looking for some personal experiences and setups others are running. I can go t4 but my take away was smaller pipes and larger exhaust housing. Keeping in mind the tendency is grow into more power ;). I figured the smaller piping would help keep velocity up before turbo. After the turbo I plan to run a downpipe matching the exhaust outlet (4 or 5 inches) to a single side exit can am style exhaust (4 inches under car).
 

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Up and forward are an absolute pain in the ass. I hate working with them. Everything about them sucks. For 800hp, stick with truck headers, the holly cast manifolds, or shorty low and forward headers. All of which are easy to work with. If the primaries are the size of the exhaust port, then that's all you need. Bigger is not better. I just built a kit that retains ac in a f-body using a PS truck on the drivers side and PS truck on the passenger side, and wrapped the passenger bank behind the motor by the torque converter. and up around the steering rack.

2.25 will work. 2.0 will work as well for that power level. Match your secondaries to the size of the turbo inlet flange. If using t4 divided, two 2.0 fit best. If t6, two 2.25.
 

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I run cast manifolds on my 5.3 combo. Very durable, and they retain the heat. Heat and velocity is what you want. I am all stock components aside from cam and rods/pistons. L33 block, crank, 799 heads and TBSS intake. I run 2 1/4" to my T6, 1.10/96 S480. I run C16 at the track and on 23# it makes 1060. It makes about 600 on the street on Shell 91, and spring pressure only of 7#.
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Up and forward are an absolute pain in the ass. I hate working with them. Everything about them sucks. For 800hp, stick with truck headers, the holly cast manifolds, or shorty low and forward headers. All of which are easy to work with. If the primaries are the size of the exhaust port, then that's all you need. Bigger is not better. I just built a kit that retains ac in a f-body using a PS truck on the drivers side and PS truck on the passenger side, and wrapped the passenger bank behind the motor by the torque converter. and up around the steering rack.

2.25 will work. 2.0 will work as well for that power level. Match your secondaries to the size of the turbo inlet flange. If using t4 divided, two 2.0 fit best. If t6, two 2.25.
I was thinking up and forward because my old kit was and it looks like it will work with the accessory drive I want to run. I planned to use LS1 drive off a 2002 camaro with low mount Alternator and A/C. I saw the hooker setup that goes behind the engine. Did you put turbo on DS or in front center? If DS where did you route exhaust. I have a steering box I don't think the crossover and down pipe would fit on the DS.

I run cast manifolds on my 5.3 combo. Very durable, and they retain the heat. Heat and velocity is what you want. I am all stock components aside from cam and rods/pistons. L33 block, crank, 799 heads and TBSS intake. I run 2 1/4" to my T6, 1.10/96 S480. I run C16 at the track and on 23# it makes 1060. It makes about 600 on the street on Shell 91, and spring pressure only of 7#. View attachment 74117 View attachment 74122
Wow that setup you made looks really nice! Is there an advantage to having the sides divided up to turbo flange? I considered the cast manifolds but I don't think down and forward will work with the accessories I want to run. How is your car on the street building boost with the t6 1.10? I Have a new s480 with t4 housing 1.10 I got for my old kit before someone offered to buy it. I've been considering trying to swap it out for your unit now that I can go t6.
 

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I was thinking up and forward because my old kit was and it looks like it will work with the accessory drive I want to run. I planned to use LS1 drive off a 2002 camaro with low mount Alternator and A/C. I saw the hooker setup that goes behind the engine. Did you put turbo on DS or in front center? If DS where did you route exhaust. I have a steering box I don't think the crossover and down pipe would fit on the DS.

It's up front, but on a car with smaller fenders, there would be room to put the turbo off to the side. The car has a tubular k-member and I used a dirty dingo mini AC compressor. It also has a 4" exhaust out to the back of the car between the k-member and AC compressor. You having a steering box and drag link is going to make it a bit tougher, but it should be doable.
 

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I was thinking up and forward because my old kit was and it looks like it will work with the accessory drive I want to run. I planned to use LS1 drive off a 2002 camaro with low mount Alternator and A/C. I saw the hooker setup that goes behind the engine. Did you put turbo on DS or in front center? If DS where did you route exhaust. I have a steering box I don't think the crossover and down pipe would fit on the DS.



Wow that setup you made looks really nice! Is there an advantage to having the sides divided up to turbo flange? I considered the cast manifolds but I don't think down and forward will work with the accessories I want to run. How is your car on the street building boost with the t6 1.10? I Have a new s480 with t4 housing 1.10 I got for my old kit before someone offered to buy it. I've been considering trying to swap it out for your unit now that I can go t6.
The 1.10 was spec'd to help build boost quickly. From the time I hit the TB, to 10# is about 3.5 seconds. My turbo started as an S475, and it was redone by Jose into a billet wheel 80mm. The 475 spooled quicker than they 80 due to the weight of the larger wheel. I will say this though, I have had two different trans/converter combo's in the car over the last 4 years, and the 35-3800 Pro Torque gets to full boost much quicker that the 35-3800 TSI converter did, so build boost isn't all in the turbo. With your HP goals, I wouldn't hesitate to go 2" tubing on the hotside either. I am extremely happy with how mild the the LJMS stg cam is, vs the HP it is capable of making. My only regret is how mild it sounds at idle............around town they call my car the promod prius because it is so quiet and mild sounding.
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Discussion Starter #9

It's up front, but on a car with smaller fenders, there would be room to put the turbo off to the side. The car has a tubular k-member and I used a dirty dingo mini AC compressor. It also has a 4" exhaust out to the back of the car between the k-member and AC compressor. You having a steering box and drag link is going to make it a bit tougher, but it should be doable.
Thats what I vas visualizing. Its really tight with my steering box on the DS. I'm going to go with modified truck manifolds facing down and forward.

should have kept your old kit if your goal is 800 whp
I had a lot of money into the kit and I wasn't using the turbo, WG,BOV, or downpipe as well as part of the cold side because I switched to the Borg warner. It didnt make financial sense to keep the kit but I get what your saying with the hot side would have worked.

The 1.10 was spec'd to help build boost quickly. From the time I hit the TB, to 10# is about 3.5 seconds. My turbo started as an S475, and it was redone by Jose into a billet wheel 80mm. The 475 spooled quicker than they 80 due to the weight of the larger wheel. I will say this though, I have had two different trans/converter combo's in the car over the last 4 years, and the 35-3800 Pro Torque gets to full boost much quicker that the 35-3800 TSI converter did, so build boost isn't all in the turbo. With your HP goals, I wouldn't hesitate to go 2" tubing on the hotside either. I am extremely happy with how mild the the LJMS stg cam is, vs the HP it is capable of making. My only regret is how mild it sounds at idle............around town they call my car the promod prius because it is so quiet and mild sounding. View attachment 74373
Custom or shelf LJMS cam? I have their stage 2 turbo cam. I found a thread where someone modified the truck manifolds on a 69 camaro and I think i'm going that route. They aren't as close to the block and I think I can come out straight and fit the alternator low as well as a small a/c compressor. Here is a pic of what I was thinking, it was posted by Ls1Nova on ls1tech, I attached a link to the thread also
ls1nova.jpg

How did you brace the turbo? Im having a hard time seeing it. I was hoping to go to the head or engine. I am running solid mounts though.

Do you guys source pipe online? I was thinking 2 inch schedule 10 stainless. ID is a little over 2 inches and the concern with stainless seems to be thin pipes not properly welded. I plan on calling a local supply place Monday but was curious if theres a reputable seller online who has decent prices. The plan is to run the truck headers down and forward with 2 inch pipes to t4 flange and then i'll run the borg s480 t4 1.10 that I have. Its going to be more money for me to send it back and then have the exhaust housing changed. I was hoping I could return and buy t6 because its under 30 days and t4 is more expensive but that doesn't seem to be how it will work. Ill try one more time Monday for the t6 but well so how it goes...
 

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I deal with Woolf Aircraft for my stainless. They sell only top quality SS. No china junk. 16 ga (.065 wall) is more than enough. You don't need the thick wall sched stuff. My turbo mount I made by hand. It bolts to the frame. The motor is motorplated, and the hot side has a TOP QUALITY bellows to allow for vibration/expansion. The bellows is an SPD piece.
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The car has never been on a dyno. For a 3400# car to go 152 in the quarter, the Wallace calculator says 1006
.
 
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