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SoftLock Upgrades.::RESULTS

1007 Views 18 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  70cuda
Before I get on the phone tomorrow and get put on hold.
Does anyone know what upgrades can be built into a SoftLock?
Namely segmented heat shields.
Have one to get rebuilt now that the BM Defiant drama is over
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I would talk to Rob Youngblood
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I would talk to Rob Youngblood
Because he will tell you WHY you do NOT want segmented heat shields. This will set the world on fire...
Because he will tell you WHY you do NOT want segmented heat shields. This will set the world on fire...
I shipped it out to him Thursday...
You won't be sorry! He will be there to help, and his stuff works!
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RAM has by far the most affordable sintered iron (Soft lock) adjustable clutches. Their 11" comes in three different base pressures. Lightest (RAM 470CW) has a range of 360-990 lbs and costs $475. The picture on Summit is wrong. The 470CW is a Long stye. They show a Borg and Beck photo. I've always used these with great results. The RAM 1361 sintered iron disk (1-3/8" Ford 10 spline) is $190. If you halfway know what you are doing, for 90% of us this plate and whatever RAM sintered iron disk that fits your combo is all you need. RAM also sells a segmented plate, but it just seems like an un-needed up-sell. McLeod and all these boutique clutch places are charging at least double.

Below is how to set the ring height on this unit using shims.
RAM also sells a segmented plate, but it just seems like an un-needed up-sell. McLeod and all these boutique clutch places are charging at least double.
Mike, I was sponsored a Hyatt reworked Ram segmented pressure plate and flywheel setup when they first came out. I found them to be at least twice as durable as the standard Ram or McLeod setups. Standard plate stuff barely lasted 1 year, but the segmented combo would easily go 2 years (when a fresh disc was installed before the 2nd season.) They were also very consistent in actual performance for the early rounds of a track day vs the standard steel stuff that I had used for years.

What I didn't like was that in the later rounds (after 5 or 6+ runs) it seemed to lose its killer consistency, possibly because it/they were storing extra heat during the short turnarounds (as we were approaching the late rounds.) That or the car just didn't like the quick turnarounds (possible.) I wish I would have tried mixing and matching the parts, like using the standard flywheel surface and the segmented pressure plate, and/or vice versa but my planned retirement got in the way . . .

If one has the bux, I'd say go for it.
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Denny I've used the Ram segmented pressure plate and flywheel stuff for 9 seasons now and have found it to be very consistent and durable just as you say. This winter I did buy a new Ram Red Hat version of pretty much the same thing and put it in with a fresh segmented flywheel and a new disc. I had my original pressure ring and the flywheel I was using reground by Ram. These pictures are of those pieces. The pressure ring has 495 runs on it and has been touched up 3 times with the segments still .212 thick, the flywheel segments a .220 thick. Ram has my business for as long as I run a stick, not to say other brands may work, to each his own that's why we aren't all driving the same brand of cars.

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Gregg, glad to hear from a seasoned competitor that your experiences with the segmented options are indeed similar to mine. I would never consider trading the segmented stuff to go back to the original flat ring design.

That Red Hat PP aluminum pressure ring sounds like what I needed in the late rounds as it should quickly dissipate heat vs iron based pressure rings.

Good Luck in your quest for another season title!
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Yeah Denny the segmented aluminum ring stayed flat, I pull it every 30 runs or so and it was always flat when I put the straight edge on it. Just sand it up with 40 grit, and knock the glaze off the disc, reset the ring height and go again. We'll miss seeing you at the races this year, but I know you'll be at a couple to see everybody.
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Ram segmented alum. flywheel and friction plate pressure plate here also. Last time I had it out everything looked good with a straight edge. Like Old Stick Racer said, hit it with 40 grit and put it back together. Ram is good people to deal with.
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Got it back,he had it 2-1/2 DAYS!!!
Heading out Friday night for break-in testing 😎
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Clutch works awesome.
1st pass at 6 [email protected] base ran it's 2nd quickest [email protected] 60ft with pulling left wheel stand and quickest pass at Quaker of a 9.78.
Took 1 turn out ,,,5 turns 1030lbs base.
Put the front 4ft in the air and ended up in the other lane just before the 330 cones.
So chassis is not up to the task.
Very happy with the clutch.....
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Clutch works awesome.
1st pass at 6 [email protected] base ran it's 2nd quickest [email protected] 60ft with pulling left wheel stand and quickest pass at Quaker of a 9.78.
Took 1 turn out ,,,5 turns 1030lbs base.
Put the front 4ft in the air and ended up in the other lane just before the 330 cones.
So chassis is not up to the task.
Very happy with the clutch.....
Nice work. Glad that things have improved for you!
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Glad to hear another happy camper from Advanced Clutches! Have you spoken to Rob Youngblood after you made a pass or two? If not, I’m sure there’s some ET still lying around. Great news after all the ass-ache you’ve been thru!!!
No ,I haven't called him.
Holiday weekend figured it can wait till the work week.
Am making some chassis changes now.
Moving battery to the front.
Restrict front end travel.
Have 5-1/2 now.
Going to try 3".
Taking pre-load out of the right ladder bar.
That 2nd pass was on the back wheels, so 1.36 could have been a 1.27/.29-60ft.
It's quickest ever.
A LOT left in it👏🏻
Figure that all out and dialed in then you’ll want one of the Advanced Clutches 6-lever billet clutches. With your weight probably a 9”?
Personally, I’d try the battery up front before you limit the front-end travel. Assuming a 40# battery.
Probably correct on the ladder bar pre-load.
Figure that all out and dialed in then you’ll want one of the Advanced Clutches 6-lever billet clutches. With your weight probably a 9”?
Personally, I’d try the battery up front before you limit the front-end travel. Assuming a 40# battery.
Probably correct on the ladder bar pre-load.
Finished moving the battery last night.
Front travel will be totally adjustable.
Going to go to neutral on the ladder bar as well.
Car is a bit faster than I expected.....
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