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Long Live The King
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Ford Pro Stock Block.
Gives some clues about what would be changed for modern very high performance applications.

You can see some images of the prototypes here.
The white-ish one was a loose copy of a Chrysler head.
The yellow-ish one was a loose copy of a Symmetrical Chevy head.




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Yes, I think the 540ish was without having to clearance anything
You can get 557 without ever touching a grinder to anything! More then that you have to get a little creative but over 600 is doable. With the Kaase
heads (he has several types) you can make over 1000HP N/A pump gas in your home garage with off the shelf parts! Dave
 

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You can get 557 without ever touching a grinder to anything! More then that you have to get a little creative but over 600 is doable. With the Kaase
heads (he has several types) you can make over 1000HP N/A pump gas in your home garage with off the shelf parts! Dave
I'd love to have his BOSS 9 top end on that 557 cubes
 

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Yeah you’re right. The 460’s have been hoarded to a certain degree especially by the 4 x 4 crowd. The 4x4 crowd with/running 385s is a minuscule segment. I'd bet there are more off-road Raptor's then 385s.
When you think of the 385s produced it's almost funny hoarders are the only ones with them today.
 

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You can still find the Ford 429 service truck steel cranks.(4340) Get it off-set ground to 3.75 -3.85” with BBC rod journals.
The super-duty 429s were popular in F700s utility trucks that were handed down to loggers in Dixie - that really fucked them up. The Super Duty Fords also had the infamous 'Gasser' hood scoops -I only ever found one in late 90s in back of junk yard....

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All aftermarket stuff.
Mostly true, but Ford put a forged steel crank in the 429's that went into the Medium duty trucks. You can pick up one of these, have the front turned down to accept common passenger car accessories like aftermarket harmonic balancers and accessory drives, then stroke it as needed. I ran one of these in a puller that ran 8400-9500 for years. In fact it was just taken out earlier this year after 13 years to bump the engine to a 514.
 

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Here some good info from Paul on dove 460.
Paul Kane
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#12 Sep 27, 2013
Metcalf Racing said:
Ive been having valve issues out of my 545 so we are going to bore it over .80. The motor is a 73 460 block. Filled, eagle steel crank, h beem rods, custom cam ,fully ported blue thunder with chevy ports, ported victor 460, c&s 1400 carb, Kevin Neil plate
looking to run 5.0x on a small tire, radial/8.5 @ 3250lb.

The car and power is there but will the block support it very long?
Click to expand...
Pedal-to-the-metal for an 1/8-mile at a time? I don't think you'll have much trouble....except when you turn on the nitrous oxide. With the N20, no telling what can happen if the tune is off. That said, we do have a forum member pushing a 4-bolted D0VE block to a documented 1400+ hp with twin turbos and N20. In the very least your 2-bolt block will be an extremely high maintenance engine. And the odds of a 2-bolt failure above 1000+ hp increases steeply. I strongly, stronglyrecommend you use OEM main bolts in your 2-bolt block and not an aftermarket main bolt upgrade of any kind whatsoever or you will almost garantee failure with the fastener upgrade.
 

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J
A 7,500 rpm 385 series demands serious racing parts from blocks, rods to heads. You are building a race engine and will be shelling out thousands..
Ehh, Ok, I have a production D9 block with stock 2 bolt main caps that has 13 years running as a 468 with Heavily ported D0OE-R heads, 429 steel crank. Spinning anywhere from 8400 to 9500 every time it went down the track.
Now while I do agree with you that an aftermarket block would have been a better choice, it can be done with a stock one. Also ANY engine regardless of brand will take thousands to spin north of 7000 and survive...
 

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................and I was frowned upon for my warning him that a goal of a 7,500 rpm power making 385 is not going to be built of stock Ford anything.
I have a stock D9 block 468 2 bolt mains with Oem Ford D0OE-R heads in my shop right now. 13 years turning up to 9500. Sold it at the end of 2011 when I quit pulling and have it in my shop now because the current owner wanted to upgrade to a 514.
Here is one of the last 9500 rpm runs I did before selling my pulling operation.
 

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I strongly, stronglyrecommend you use OEM main bolts in your 2-bolt block and not an aftermarket main bolt upgrade of any kind whatsoever or you will almost garantee failure with the fastener upgrade.
Ive heard this before but why? I would think a set of ARP studs or just bolts would be stronger than the Oem stuff.
 

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Ive heard this before but why? I would think a set of ARP studs or just bolts would be stronger than the Oem stuff.
Im not exactly sure why Paul suggests that. I know the ford stuff was extremely good quality bolt and the arp stud setup with fine thread put more clamping force possibly distorted cap. I know paul has been around some very high horse factory class ford big blocks
 

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Long Live The King
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Im not exactly sure why Paul suggests that. I know the ford stuff was extremely good quality bolt and the arp stud setup with fine thread put more clamping force possibly distorted cap. I know paul has been around some very high horse factory class ford big blocks
I’ve discussed this with Paul a couple of times. Allowing things to “move around a bit” seems to work better than clamping everything down and Demanding of it to stay in perfect/exact place.
 
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