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Discussion Starter #101
I had a body shop owner back in the ninety's that said fuck these insurance company's and had the insight to add a mechanic (me) to do mechanical in house and charge accordingly.
His mechanical rate was twice the body rate.
I did every radiator, condenser including fill and charge. Also did all suspension, alignments and anything that could be listed under mechanical.
A few of his buddy shop owners followed suit.

OP, sorry to add to thread derail but the carfax items are interesting.
Good luck with your truck man...
All good Sir. The convo has merit and is beneficial to many.
I am usually a thread killer. lol This one has legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Just an update.
I sent the GM a really good email this morning with a respectfully disgruntled head and he called me on the phone pretty damn quick so we'll see what happens. He sounded invested in making me happy on the phone but he IS a car salesman at heart.
TBC...
 

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I got into a "discussion" with an adjuster over mechanical vs body rates the other day. In my shop, the mechanical rate is $110/hr and the body is $54/hr. We were putting in new core support and he wanted to pay body time to R&I the radiator. CCC (it is an estimating software) has it listed as mechanical but requires you to manually change it to the mechanical rate on the estimate. His argument was it does not require special tools (other than to evac and recharge the A/C, which I sub out), and is a common repair, so it was going to be paid at the lower body rate. I had to argue that CCC shows it as a MECHANICAL operation. Took over 30 minutes, but he finally gave in. Just a small example of what we are up against.
Yep, sounds familiar. We do our suspension work in house, unless I'm slammed and I'll sub it out to a local shop who we buy our tires from, great people. Anyway,...the killer is, here in this state, the mechanical rate is not much higher than the body work rate on the insurance estimate,...but if I sub it out, they will pay the mechanics invoice and their rate,...even if it's double what they'll pay me.

Same thing with the new 1234 Freon recharging. We have a brand new machine, a 15 thousand dollar machine that does 134 and 1234,...and the 1234 is 50 times as expensive as the 134,..but I have to fight with insurance to pay me the correct amount for the operation.

Same goes for pre and post repair diagnostic scans. Just had to buy a new Snap On unit at 6 or 7 grand, because our old one wouldn't accept updates for 2018 vehicles and up. I make a separate invoice for each scan for $125 per. That's $250 for both. Allstate pays 1/2 hour per scan? Geico pays an hour? Really? But if I towed it to the dealer, they'd have to pay the tow and at least a $160 charge per scan from them. Insurance companies suck.
 

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We have two '19 Ford F350 ext cab srw XLT FX4's, two '19 Dodge 3500 std cab drw "mega tow" tradesman(with power package), a '19 Chevy 2500HD crew cab srw w/t (with power package), and two '19 3500HD cc/drw 9' bed w/t(with power package). All diesel/auto/4wd, all "service body" beds..

Boss took one of the 350's to the Carolina's and back towing a tandem axle equipment trailer and a small vibratory roller, then towed the same trailer with a skid steer loaded behind the 2500HD to Ohio and back. - The Chevy burnt less fuel and DEF going from southern FL to Ohio and back than the Ford did going to the Carolinas and back. Boss also much happier with the ride quality(expected with the IFS) and less road noise(which is sad, being a W/T compared to an XLT).

With 7k miles on the clock of one of the 350's and 200 miles on the clock of one of the 3500HD's, out of a stop light the Ford launched half a truck on the Chevy, top of low gear the converter in the Allison locked up and flat drove around the Ford and got worse through every gear change. Loaded dually crew truck vs single wheel foreman's truck, and one still well within break-in ecu limitations. Now with 12k+ miles on at least one of each, empty vs empty drag race its Chevy, Ford, Dodge. With a trailer the Chevy and Dodge are comparable and both walk away from the Fords. - The same can be said for fuel mileage.

The XLT FX4's have a few options over the others, but nothing to even nearly justify the $20k each more that they cost, which is compounded further with the lower performance and economy.


They will all see deletes and tunes once they're out of warranty, provided tuning doesn't turn into further of a pita than it's already getting to be now with the federal crack-downs.
youre fuckin high we got about 70 6.7’s and when they aren’t shaking they will suck the doors off our Duramaxs. Only complaint is the damn front end shaking. Can’t speak for mileage but they will flat smoke a Chevy stock for stock

 

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Yep, sounds familiar. We do our suspension work in house, unless I'm slammed and I'll sub it out to a local shop who we buy our tires from, great people. Anyway,...the killer is, here in this state, the mechanical rate is not much higher than the body work rate on the insurance estimate,...but if I sub it out, they will pay the mechanics invoice and their rate,...even if it's double what they'll pay me.

Same thing with the new 1234 Freon recharging. We have a brand new machine, a 15 thousand dollar machine that does 134 and 1234,...and the 1234 is 50 times as expensive as the 134,..but I have to fight with insurance to pay me the correct amount for the operation.

Same goes for pre and post repair diagnostic scans. Just had to buy a new Snap On unit at 6 or 7 grand, because our old one wouldn't accept updates for 2018 vehicles and up. I make a separate invoice for each scan for $125 per. That's $250 for both. Allstate pays 1/2 hour per scan? Geico pays an hour? Really? But if I towed it to the dealer, they'd have to pay the tow and at least a $160 charge per scan from them. Insurance companies suck.
Same here Frank.I get upset sometimes, argue with adjusters sometimes,but in the end its my choice to do this kind of work(as per your sig line)but i find that most of the adjusters help me out with a little extra in other places that fit within their guidelines .Most are good guys that like coming to my shop and know their jobs are dwindling with all the "send us pics,we'll send you a check" bullshit.Best ones are when i get an adjuster thats retiring or leaving his job soon.
 

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Same here Frank.I get upset sometimes, argue with adjusters sometimes,but in the end its my choice to do this kind of work(as per your sig line)but i find that most of the adjusters help me out with a little extra in other places that fit within their guidelines .Most are good guys that like coming to my shop and know their jobs are dwindling with all the "send us pics,we'll send you a check" bullshit.Best ones are when i get an adjuster thats retiring or leaving his job soon.
I just can't stand the miniscule labor rate insurance allows. Electrician comes in your front door, or a plumber,..and they'll get over $100 an hour and you won't bat an eye at it because you want your lights on, or your AC working, or your toilet to flush. But shit, my posted labor rate is $84 per hour for body work, $95 per for frame and mechanical work, but depending on the insurance company, I get between $46 and $52 per hour for body and frame work. (they pay the same rate for both) and between $48 and $60 per hour for mechanical. And they wonder why I'm trying to get paid 2 hours for a 1 hour dent. And I never, ever get compensated correctly for paint and material. I pretty much give half that shit away to the customer because I'm not getting paid for it. I get appraisers to throw in a little operations here and there to try to make up for an operation they won't pay me for, but it doesn't make up for the low labor rate.

Even at $52 per hour, after paying the tech, his benefits, workman's comp, overhead, electric, heat, water, sewer, taxes, fire inspection, licenses, training, etc,..etc,... what's left for profit? You have to be very imaginative to make this occupation work, believe me.

And if anyone is wondering, those posted labor rates are figured out by an accountant, taking in all cost figures, and that's what this shop needs to make per hour to turn a profit, to open the doors everyday.
 

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Im not sure where your located but its the same scenario in upstate NY.Infiniti dealership across the street can charge 110 hr to check fluids and change a taillamp bulb and i get maybe $55 hr to change a strut and control arm on a rusty toyota .Material bills pile up faster than i can keep track of and it sucks.2 words that have kept me in it for 25 years though,cash jobs.
 

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Funny part is the asshole that owns the dealership will send a service writer or mechanic over with a customer car or trade in with damage for a quote and ALWAYS come back with "can you do it any cheaper?" Nope! not me.
 

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youre fuckin high we got about 70 6.7’s and when they aren’t shaking they will suck the doors off our Duramaxs. Only complaint is the damn front end shaking. Can’t speak for mileage but they will flat smoke a Chevy stock for stock

?‍♂ neither of our '19 6.7's Fords will run with any of the '19 Chevys. - I'm impressed by my buddy's '16 6.7 stock and especially now deleted/tuned, but both our 19's are turds.

The Fords will pull about half a truck length at the initial launch, then the top of low gear the Chevy's lock the TC up in the Allison and just start pulling. With a trailer and mini ex on it's the Chevy and Dodge all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Update
So i estimate my email was worth an instant ~$12Kish. lol
The GM got the sales department acting right-right away and they brought in exactly what i told them i was looking for.
I gave them my truck and $14k and they are putting on a leveling kit and AMP Power Steps. I might could have done better but im happy with the end result. The 10 speed Allison is the shit! With taller tires and no Z71 option it rides supah nice compared to the 2018. Seeing as the 2018 was 2 years old, needed tires and inspection($1500ish) and I was about to put AMPS on it,($1800ish my cost) im really only out about $11k-ish to get into the 2020 LTZ that is optioned out similar to the 2018 LTZ. The window sticker on the 2020 is about $3k higher than the 2018 was.
 

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Update
So i estimate my email was worth an instant ~$12Kish. lol
The GM got the sales department acting right-right away and they brought in exactly what i told them i was looking for.
I gave them my truck and $14k and they are putting on a leveling kit and AMP Power Steps. I might could have done better but im happy with the end result. The 10 speed Allison is the shit! With taller tires and no Z71 option it rides supah nice compared to the 2018. Seeing as the 2018 was 2 years old, needed tires and inspection($1500ish) and I was about to put AMPS on it,($1800ish my cost) im really only out about $11k-ish to get into the 2020 LTZ that is optioned out similar to the 2018 LTZ. The window sticker on the 2020 is about $3k higher than the 2018 was.
Congratulations on your successfully arguing for adequate resolution to their error. Do you mind sharing a copy of the email you sent them which prompted their action.
 

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Update
So i estimate my email was worth an instant ~$12Kish. lol
The GM got the sales department acting right-right away and they brought in exactly what i told them i was looking for.
I gave them my truck and $14k and they are putting on a leveling kit and AMP Power Steps. I might could have done better but im happy with the end result. The 10 speed Allison is the shit! With taller tires and no Z71 option it rides supah nice compared to the 2018. Seeing as the 2018 was 2 years old, needed tires and inspection($1500ish) and I was about to put AMPS on it,($1800ish my cost) im really only out about $11k-ish to get into the 2020 LTZ that is optioned out similar to the 2018 LTZ. The window sticker on the 2020 is about $3k higher than the 2018 was.
They'll fix your truck, sell it and probably break even or even make a bit.... they're not dumb. I'm glad you're happy though...that's all that counts.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Good morning Mr. XXXXX.

My name is XXXXX XXXXX.

I am not sure you are aware of the situ, but I brought my 2018 Duramax LTZ LWB in for some warranty work just over a week ago. While the truck was in you service department, a porter apparently crashed my truck into the side of the shop door caving in the bed side. The truck will need a whole new bed side replaced. I am sick at my stomach over the whole issue. I do not want a repaired truck back as I take good care of my stuff and regardless of the quality of work, the trained eye will always be able to tell a repair has happened.

This has been a huge inconvenience and whereas I was not in the market for a new truck for another year or two, I thought we would entertain doing so as to make a painful situation for both of us a little less painful.

Me being in sales I realize that the Sales Department has goals that don’t always align with the big picture when it comes to a situation like this. This why I am bringing it to your attention. You may or may not wish to involve yourself in the situation but I would want to be involved if I were in your position. I feel there should be some upper management influence due to the inconvenience in the name of keeping a happy customer. My family has recently purchased a High Country Truck and a Premier Suburban from your dealership if that helps you feel better about customer loyalty and potential future business.

I have been in contact with your Sales Manager XXXXX and he put me with XXXXX, but as I said, I doubt they see the situation from your 30,000ft view. XXXXXX located a truck that fits the bill, but I don’t get the feeling XXXXX and XXXXXX are invested in the deal to the level they should be given the situation. I have made an offer I feel is achievable based on having bought a 2016 Duramax LTZ LWB, a 2018 Duramax LTZ LWB, the value of my truck, and the inconvenience I am having to deal with. I have not yet heard back from XXXXXX or XXXXX.

Thank you for any influence you may have in an equitable solution for both of us regarding a possible trade.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #114
They'll fix your truck, sell it and probably break even or even make a bit.... they're not dumb. I'm glad you're happy though...that's all that counts.
That thing was gong straight to auction or the used lot at the dealer. The salesman that was helping me said it would be gone in 3 or 4 days. They can't repair it that quick. 2- 3 weeks for the repair because the parts have to come from Detroit. ....so they said so take that for what it's worth.
 
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