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I epoxied two doors and a fiberglass hood last night, 2 coats of shopline epoxy, came in this morning to spray my poly for blocking and there is 3-4 quarter size or a little bigger places on each door that wrinkled after the first coat then I stopped. Did I lay it on too wet? Can I wait a day or two and sand those spots and start again with poly or should everything be stripped? First time I've ran into this as I have sprayed these two together like this before.
 

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Was it stripped to bare substrate or did you prime over old layers of paint/primer?
 

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The clear was pealing so I DA'd all the clear off, so not completely no.
I bet you ran into a non-catalyzed product there.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the poly "should" hold down any defects. If you seal the surface completely with poly, it should not come back. If you break through the poly anywhere, its not sealed completely.

I filled age cracks in my 442 hood with spies poly primer almost 20 years ago. Nothing has surfaced yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So should I let the poly cure, come back later and sand it, feather out the wrinkle spots then come back with more coats of poly, putting the first coat on light?
 

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Read the P pages on the poly for re-coating. I would block the whole door and hood, then re-coat with poly. If you get it covered without lifting , it should be good to go.

Before you do anything though, wait for a second opinion. There are some real pros here and I would hate to steer you wrong.
 

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All I can imagine is the epoxy wasn't quite cured due to temp or time....or more likely, those 3 or 4 quarter shaped spots might be where areas that weak, non-adhering clear was left on the surface but you didn't notice them. The epoxy could have penetrated those clear spots, and when the spray poly was applied, it lifted and wrinkled the clear and epoxy in those spots.

I would just remove the problem areas, feather the edges back, block the whole panel, (no need to remove all the poly or epoxy), then re spray the poly.
 

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I've used another brand epoxy, they recommended 24 hrs (depending on conditions) before body fillers and at least 48 before spraying polyester filler primers. I don't know about other manufacturers thought. So being a novice at best, I agree with Frank,epoxy probably needed a little more time to cure.
 

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Also if the Slick Sand is mixed a little hot it makes incredible heat. I bet your failure is below the epoxy. You could DA it and feather some Slick Sand over it, make it look perfect and paint it but I would always be worried about it. Especially in the sun
 

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Not to be a smart ass, but you asked Two questions. The short answer is "Yes" to both.
The grits I feel you should be finishing the slick sand with (180-220 at the finest) are really too coarse to just seal over IMO though. Lorne
 

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Not to be a smart ass, but you asked Two questions. The short answer is "Yes" to both.
The grits I feel you should be finishing the slick sand with (180-220 at the finest) are really too coarse to just seal over IMO though. Lorne
A buddy had a bodyman do a fiberglass hood and he finished it with 320 (slick sand)and told him to paint it, I told him he might need to 2k prime or seal it first, I was not sure. Thanks.
 

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A buddy had a bodyman do a fiberglass hood and he finished it with 320 (slick sand)and told him to paint it, I told him he might need to 2k prime or seal it first, I was not sure. Thanks.
should really prime it with urethane...I have just sealed and painted poly but wasn't on something I was concerned with...if you were to seal and paint I'd finish finer than 320
 

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My thinking is you shot the slick sand to soon, not sure what temp the body was at,
but some epoxys can take a couple days. Something underneath as said may affect
the upper coat, take longer to dry.
 

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You "sanded the clear off". In other words your substrate for the epoxy was uncatalyzed basecoat. Your epoxy lifted the base. Take it all off and start over if you want it done right.
 

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Id have to agree woth above my first thought was the epoxy wasnt cured or it was hammered on . i like 2 medium wet coats let short bake cycle air cure few hours then urethane it.obe done them dtm epoxy and 2k wet on wet if compatible Not sure what the need for slick sand or feather fill for did you not get body work straight?...if your metal work amd filler work is gpod why add more shit on top. 2k block it 320 another 2k final sand 400-800 depend color and let her rip base clear done
 

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Id have to agree woth above my first thought was the epoxy wasnt cured or it was hammered on . i like 2 medium wet coats let short bake cycle air cure few hours then urethane it.obe done them dtm epoxy and 2k wet on wet if compatible Not sure what the need for slick sand or feather fill for did you not get body work straight?...if your metal work amd filler work is gpod why add more shit on top. 2k block it 320 another 2k final sand 400-800 depend color and let her rip base clear done
Didn't want any of your points lost if it was hard for anyone to follow along so,.....Translation...……….;)

I'd have to agree with above. My first thought was the epoxy wasn't cured or it was hammered on. I like 2 medium wet coats, let it bake in a short bake cycle, then air cure for few hours. Then urethane it. When done, then dtm epoxy and 2k wet on wet if compatible. Not sure what the need for slick sand or feather fill is. Did you not get body work straight? If your metal work and filler work is good, why add more shit on top. Block your 2K primer with 320, spray another coat of 2k, and final sand with 400-800 grit paper depending on color and let her rip with the base and clear,.. done.
 

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I've used another brand epoxy, they recommended 24 hrs (depending on conditions) before body fillers and at least 48 before spraying polyester filler primers. I don't know about other manufacturers thought. So being a novice at best, I agree with Frank,epoxy probably needed a little more time to cure.
This
 
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