Yellow Bullet Forums banner

241 - 260 of 286 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Looking to maybe pull the oil pan off my engine and reseal. I used clear silicone from a large caulk type tube the last time I did it. It looks like I’m getting a tiny bit of seepage at the rear cap area, and the silicone is starting to turn yellowish brown at this point. Any recommendations on a good clear (or any other color) silicone to use? The last stuff I used, almost half of the tube was hardened inside the tube, as it must have sat in the shelf for a while......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
Permatex Ultra Gray Gasket Maker. It is not the same as ultra black or other Permatex colors. The other silicones look and dry dry shiny. The Gasket Maker dries dull flat look and is a better sealer. JMO. All the auto chain parts stores carry it. (There are a couple different versions of the Ultra Gray Gasket Maker.)

The only other one I like is the Valco brand silicones, especially the Silver/aluminum color. It matches up nice when sealing parts that are aluminum. Jegs and Summit carry it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,208 Posts
Who would of thought there were this many pages on silicone. So I guess I'll chime in here as well. There are a lot of great silicone's out there and I'm not going to knock any of them. I have for years now use a silicone that comes in an aerosol can and truly has to be the easiest silicone to use. It's like having silicone in a cheese wiz can and it works great. Here is a link to their product page and I use the Chembond silicone in the aerosol cans. http://adaseal.com/products/
Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,214 Posts
My personal favorites are RTV Ultra Black 85080 9.5 oz in the can (cheese wizz!)

This like most pressurized can sealants allows an easy powered bead especially over a long surface like oil pans and block rails- no more squeezing stuff out of tubes!

Hercules Megalock White thread sealer in the can with brush top for bolts going into water jackets and cooling system parts.

The most important thing for the success of sealers and cements in my humble opinion is CLEAN SURFACES on both the engine parts surfaces and the gaskets. If they are not carefully and thoroughly cleaned with proper solvent no gasket or thread sealer does a good job! The stuff has to adhere to all surfaces completely to PREVENT AND STOP LEAKS! CLEAN WELL =SEAL WELL. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
If you're looking for sealant that goes in between machined surfaces with a thin build and displaces easily the Subaru Fuji bond works great. It is designed to work between the split case style blocks and works well on machined/flanged surfaces. If you need something with a thicker build the Hondabond is really nice, so if you have a oil pan that isn't very flat and don't want to come back to a leak Hondabond is a great go too. Both of these sealants are OEM level approaches and go 100,000+ in service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
I am having nightmares about the day that I have to pull my pan. I used right stuff for the first time. Not even a hint of moisture, but hear horror stories about ruining aluminum pans trying to get them off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
I love the right stuff, use it for everything!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,896 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Any recommendations for SBC valve covers? Using the $$$ Felpro 1628 gaskets they say to run dry.....and they leak. Primarily at the passengers rear outside cover. Heads are old 186 double humps, valve covers are GM L98 aluminum. Casting does NOT appear to top notch which is probably contributing to the problem

Ultra Grey? Right Stuff?

Thanks-Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,692 Posts
What's your favorite flavor?

I'd like to find out what an equivalent is to the Permatex Ultra Grey... that's my favorite right now but I'd like to buy it in larger quantities... any other brands to match the quality of that one that can be bought in a caulk tube?
Toyota dealerships have some factory stuff they give to the mechanics for oil pan,valve cover,water pump jobs. It`s pretty bad ass..FIPG #00295 00103 $15.99
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
384 Posts
To add to all of this discussion.... I use The Rite Stuff when assembling my engine. With my intake, I put the bead along the front and back and smeared some around each intake runner and water port on each side of the gaskets. When I went to remove the intake I had the engine on the stand, and it would not pop loose. I had to take out all of the bolts and lift the intake by the carb plate with my engine hoist. Even then it literally lifted the entire engine in the air. I had the engine stand wheels just barely touching the ground and took a propane torch and heated along the front and rear of the intake. It finally gave and came off. Holy shit man. I'm about to assemble this thing again, and I'm honestly kind of reluctant to use it again. It worked great for sealing, which I guess is the important part. But if I ever need to pull the intake at the track for whatever reason, I'd be screwed.
 
241 - 260 of 286 Posts
Top