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Going to be shooting some drags this aft, and final round of qualifying will be at 9pm. Ill be shooting a d90 w a 70-200 2.8 and am on the fence if i can get by upping the ISO and shooting wide open, or if i might need a little flash. Thoughts??
 

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thanks Dave, its gonna be at TMP. nit sure what the track lighting will be like. I'm not sure about the possibility of a remote set up... ill give it a go and see..
 

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a little higher aperture, low iso, and a flash will net better results nearly every time
Gotta agree with you Dom but trying to get any decent reach with a flash and the 70-200 at nearly 200mm is gonna be difficult. I've done both and have been upgrading flashes and remotes to try and get better night stuff.
 

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Remote flash solves that and is awesome. Ill be breaking mine out this weekend for a race and going to try 2 580s on the line to light the car
Better bring your A game if you are talking about Sikeston, I can tell you shooting after dark is a BEAR. Just not much to work with light wise. Be nice to meet you finally.
 

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yeah ill be shooting at sikeston, hopefully i can get some useable shots. 2 580s should be enough light to get one lane lit up. i was told it was a bit dark, so ill have to pick my poison and choose one side to set up shop in. Still pretty new to shooting with a flash, even though ive had it over a year and a half, i just dont have the time invested in it right now let alone two flashes. But i wont learn unless i try so I figure this is a good time to try it out.
 

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a little higher aperture, low iso, and a flash will net better results nearly every time

I agree, Around F5.6, ISO up to its highest it can go BEFORE It gets grainy. Flash in Manual at Full Power. Shutter Speed will be at 1/250th

Now you are not going to get more then one shot before the flash recycles, But the shots will be good, And the whole car will be in (Should) focus.

Thats a good starting point, now you can play around with the F-stop and start trying to back the flash down a little bit so you can get more then one shot. But when you go all the way down to F2.8 it (IMOP) wont look as good, it creates some kind of haze ( maybe someone else can explain it) but to me it always looks like theres some kind of white haze to the pics that are at F2.8 Its like there is no color saturation.

Also you should be in single focus unless the track has really good lighting, hard for Auto focus to track a car at night, I mean you can but usually not completely sharp. If you put it in single focus and when the car is on the starting line (if it has headlights) you can focus on the ground about 3' infront of the car, that way when it launches it should be right where you focuses take it you are not late taking the shot.

That should be a good starting point for you, and just adjust things as you go if need be. Now you gotta remember, when shooting flash at night you will need to adjust for different color cars, so you dont under or over expose, white car bump up the f stop or knock down the ISO, Dark car, bump up the ISO knock down the F-stop.

You can get some really good night shots with on camera flash, just takes some learning and testing with your equipment.
 

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Here are a few night shots of mine from a while back. I'm going by memory on the settings. Shooting with a 7D, 24-70 2.8, 1-580II and 1-480. 580 mounted on the camrea and the 480 on a tripod at the wall and pointed towards the right rear 1/4 of the car. Camera settings were around 800-1000 ISO, Ap 2.8, shutter 1/250th. I toyed witht he flash settings, I think about 1/32 power on the 480 and 1/16 on the 580.











 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the info guys.. Lonnie, that was very detailed, thanks! Lookin forward to trying some of these out.

Track lighting wasn't too too bad, plus I had a few shots that had my on camera flash, plus some lucky timing and flash form a couple of the other photogs. Ill see if I can put a few up shortly.
 

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Lonnie I don't like to shoot cars from the front wider than 5.6 because of depth of field.. if shooting a car from the front wide open, the distance between the front of the car and driver is plenty far enough to make their faces not sharp.

yeah ill be shooting at sikeston, hopefully i can get some useable shots. 2 580s should be enough light to get one lane lit up. i was told it was a bit dark, so ill have to pick my poison and choose one side to set up shop in. Still pretty new to shooting with a flash, even though ive had it over a year and a half, i just dont have the time invested in it right now let alone two flashes. But i wont learn unless i try so I figure this is a good time to try it out.
2 580's will be more than enough.. I use 285HV's and they are not on full power at night and plenty of light.

I actually like pitch black tracks, you can be more creative and add the light where you want. Hopefully your remotes can do rear curtain sync.

and now I will exit, as you guys know, I (Lonnie too) can go on for hours about side flashes!!!!
 

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Lonnie I don't like to shoot cars from the front wider than 5.6 because of depth of field.. if shooting a car from the front wide open, the distance between the front of the car and driver is plenty far enough to make their faces not sharp.

Do you mean you do not like to shoot cars under 5.6?
 

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Do you mean you do not like to shoot cars under 5.6?
More recently have been trying to refine photo quality and try out different things.. you know me always trying stuff to learn and improve.

If I want more than the front end to be sharp, I try not to. A lot of time obviously if there's no light available... I do what I have to do.

food for thought

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
 

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More recently have been trying to refine photo quality and try out different things.. you know me always trying stuff to learn and improve.

If I want more than the front end to be sharp, I try not to. A lot of time obviously if there's no light available... I do what I have to do.

food for thought

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Ok thats what I thought, yeah I agree, when I first started, before remote flash, I always shot at F2.8 with on camera flash. Cause I would have the Flash at 1/8 - 1/2 power to be able to get some extra shots before the flash had to recycle encase something happen like a big wheel stand or something. But started learning that I was sacrificing quality (imop about my stuff) So started shooting with more power on the flash and higher F-stop and lower ISO.

Then I was shown remote flash and the whole game changed. lol
 

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Ok thats what I thought, yeah I agree, when I first started, before remote flash, I always shot at F2.8 with on camera flash. Cause I would have the Flash at 1/8 - 1/2 power to be able to get some extra shots before the flash had to recycle encase something happen like a big wheel stand or something. But started learning that I was sacrificing quality (imop about my stuff) So started shooting with more power on the flash and higher F-stop and lower ISO.

Then I was shown remote flash and the whole game changed. lol

Yeeeeeeeeeeup I hear you and me and you probably have done very similar experimenting !! Shit hijacked another thread on flashes..
 
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