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Discussion Starter #1
Someone in the trashed section asked about the Shogun Alt everyone seems to say they dont work. Does anybody else know about them , are they just designed to maintain a battery while you run since they are only 15 amps? It should be better than no alt at all .
 

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15amps? Might as well put a 30amp John Deere permenant magnet alternator in then. I dont think 15amps is worth the extra brackets and belts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a permenant magnet type.

The SHOGUN LECTRI-CHARGE SYSTEM is unique in that its basically forty years back in technology, not high tech, but low tech. It operates on the same principal as a magneto, magnets, iron and wire. There are no brushes to bounce or cause electrical interference.


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]When set up properly with the proper amount of belt tension, its output is a minimum of 14.5 volts and 15 amps.


We conducted an extensive testing program using an outside independent test lab. The goal was to determine the various electrical problems which could or would cause 'ELECTRICAL INTERFERENCE' to happen.

The following are some Do's and Don'ts based on these tests.

Race cars have a huge potential for electrical problems ranging from electronic cross talk, EMI, RFI or radio interference, up to the most common, electrical shorts. There is also a big problem with batteries themselves; when is a battery good, when is it dead, deep cycle or non-deep cycle and how big is big enough. In answering some of these questions, we will base it on the thought that you must have an alternator.

  1. Never use a deep cycle battery! Size is up to you but a single 800 CCA rating is totally adequate.
  2. Always make sure the battery is fully charged before going to the race track. Racing alternators only maintain battery voltage, they are not intended to rebuild a dead battery.
  3. If your battery will only maintain 12.0 volts, not 12.2 or better, your battery is legally DEAD, replace it or stay home.
  4. When starting the engine, make sure all unnecessary electrical items such as water pump, fan, etc. are off.
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I would call John Deere, half the price and twice the amperage. Both are useless on a drag car, but anyway, that is just my opnion. The whole idea of using an alternator is to keep your voltage over 14volts. These alternators, or any alternator that cannot produce more amperage than your load, is just adding extra drag to your motor without any benefit of a hotter ignition. Now if you could a permanment magnet alternaotr that was in the 120amp range, that would be awesome, as they are more efficient.
We are a distributor for Ecoair, they are 315amps, 190amps at a diesel truck idle (lower than the turn on speed of a lot of automotive alternators). They require 40% less hp to turn, so they actually save a lot of gas in fire trucks, ambulances, tow trucks, tractor trailers with high electrical loads, etc, etc. They are huge alternators that weigh 40lbs, so not meant for drag racing. But they had planned on a 200amp automotive version. Just dont know what ever happened to it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks RRRAAAYYY2 I have one of these already I got it cheap at a swap meet but if its useless I wont use it. What do you recommend? I want something lightwieght. I have a sbc,would like a low mount type I had a Powermaster denso type 100 amp but still had problems with the battery going dead. Its just a drag car no street use. I have 2 holley blue pumps( only use 1 at a time) electric waterpump drive,MSD 6AL,dual 11" Spal fans,1 taillight,a tach,shiftlight and 3 gauge lights.Thanks
 

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The question is how light weight. The mini Denso's are about 5lb, a CS130 are about 10 lbs. One can be built to give you years of problem free service. But can you afford the 5lbs? If so then I would recommend a CS130 or if you are doing custom mounts, a CS130D (internal fans and a bigger back bearing). Both have avalanche diodes, which help with noise and are a little more efficient. Amperage wise a standard HD unit at 140amps is all you would need. We also build them at 160-180 and 220+amps. The 160's good for NOS applications, and the 220's are just to say we can, pretty useless alternaotr as it has a 60amp idle charge (900rpm). Though in some drag cars with higher idles it would be 150amps.

We sell more CS130 ACSE (one wire) HD units than everything else combined. The can also be fixed at most any alternator shop, though if something was wrong with the rotor or stator performance would probably suffer. But with that said, if built properly, it should be good for several years on a drag car, and 80,000 miles on a street car. Really the only thing that might fail is the bearings. (And so far they are lasting longer than I would have thought, 5+ years on several customers rides)

Powermaster makes a CS130 based unit, I do, and I am sure East Coast will as well. As long as they have the bigger bearings, they are a great alternator. Stock bearings, not so much.
 
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