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Discussion Starter #1
My car started launching erratic a couple months ago and I've been through basicly the entire suspension and have not found the cure. The last piece is rear shocks. It has strange doubles (the silver ones) that were one the car when I bought it so don't know how old they are. On strange website they are listed as street/strip shocks so I'm wondering if I need better shocks or just rebuilt and re valved? I've been debating everything from afco BG's to ohlins. Just don't know if the ohlins/Penske has an advantage over afco's on a car like mine. 2470lbs best 60 so far 1.13. 33x15 slicks tube chassis 4 link. What are most using on a car like mine?

Thanks
 

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Santhuff belongs in there with Penske/Ohlins IMO
 

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People don't realize just how important the rear shocks are. I think they are one of the most important things on the " to do list". We had Lambs on our car. After a shit load and many years of running ( and it was starting to act stupid), I sent the Lambs back to Betty to be rebuilt and valved and bought a new set of Santuffs for the rear. Very happy with the car. I don't think you can go wrong with either of these company's.
 

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I switched from the DA Strange shocks to the JRI sportsman shocks. I'm 1.11-1.12 in 60 ft. IMO at that ET the Penske or similar higher end shocks aren't really necessary. Lot of cars still going fast on a good set of Koni's. We were going 1.05 @4.50's on Koni's with a T/S car.

What sort of problems are you having?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The car started going right at launch and I've rebuilt the front struts, all new heim joints. springs tested, scaled the car back to where it used to work and added preload from there and still not going straight. The drive shaft graph jumps up too high initially and then hooks and unhooks a couple times through the run (possibly from the crooked launch). Was going to rebuild this but thinking I should get something better just not sure how much better I need.


I switched from the DA Strange shocks to the JRI sportsman shocks. I'm 1.11-1.12 in 60 ft. IMO at that ET the Penske or similar higher end shocks aren't really necessary. Lot of cars still going fast on a good set of Koni's. We were going 1.05 @4.50's on Koni's with a T/S car.

What sort of problems are you having?
 

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Did you closely check the holes in the 4 link brackets for wear. If only one hole is slightly oblong it will make the car do bad things. It does not make sense that the car worked good before and you cant make it leave straight now unless something is bent, broken or worn. As far a shocks go Santhuff is top of the line for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have actually even moved the bars to different holes with no affect.

Did you closely check the holes in the 4 link brackets for wear. If only one hole is slightly oblong it will make the car do bad things. It does not make sense that the car worked good before and you cant make it leave straight now unless something is bent, broken or worn. As far a shocks go Santhuff is top of the line for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did switch to methanol shortly before the issues started so the added torque may be part of the issue. I'm just wondering if the best on the market will help on a car like mine or if a good double like an afco would be as good on my car as the top end shocks since I only have 1000hp and not 2500?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It has a fab 9 housing and I've actual tried adding a little rear steer to get it going straight. I don't see anything bent or cracked.


Did you check to see if the rear housing is bent. one axle tube could be slightly bent. I am sure that you have checked to see if the housing is square in the car.
 

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I haven’t seen a recent video but the earliest one I remember looked like the IC needed to Be raised closer to the neutral line, wheelie bars lowered or a combo of both.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did raise and shorten the IC recently. I have actually taken the bars off thinking they may have been upsetting the chassis. What would be a good starting height for the bars? 66" long

I haven’t seen a recent video but the earliest one I remember looked like the IC needed to Be raised closer to the neutral line, wheelie bars lowered or a combo of both.
 

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Your car is quick enough to need the bars IMO. I would set them them low to start to try and make the tire spin as a starting point. For the IC, I would suggest raising the rear of the car 1/4-3/8” at a time to see how it reacts, if the wheelie bar doesn’t help first. We ran our truck without bars for a long time and if we had them on, they were set very high with the thought the longer wheel base needed a higher wheelie to transfer more weight. After going through the same headaches as you have moving 4 link over and over with the same inconsistent runs, we finally lowered the bars and we’re able to pick up from 1.03-1.04 to 1.00-1.01. Most of that was because when the tire dead hooked initially, it would basketball the tire. What’s the weight balance f-r of your car? 66” is pretty long.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
1320 front 1150 rear I'll measurer them but pretty sure that is the length.

Your car is quick enough to need the bars IMO. I would set them them low to start to try and make the tire spin as a starting point. For the IC, I would suggest raising the rear of the car 1/4-3/8” at a time to see how it reacts, if the wheelie bar doesn’t help first. We ran our truck without bars for a long time and if we had them on, they were set very high with the thought the longer wheel base needed a higher wheelie to transfer more weight. After going through the same headaches as you have moving 4 link over and over with the same inconsistent runs, we finally lowered the bars and we’re able to pick up from 1.03-1.04 to 1.00-1.01. Most of that was because when the tire dead hooked initially, it would basketball the tire. What’s the weight balance f-r of your car? 66” is pretty long.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do you have a number to get ahold of him. I called and emailed and haven't gotten a response so not sure I called the right number. It goes straight to voicemail.

I bought Penskes from Chris Bell at kenetic and was very happy with the shocks and after sale service.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The JRI sportsman shock sounds pretty good but only 5 clicks of extension adjustment concerns me slightly. I'm down to those or the OHLINS LMP for now.
 

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I would consider the new qa1 adjustable mod shocks. Can revalve your shocks with them still on the car by just switching out the valve packs in a matter of minutes. They've been on the market for a few months now.
 
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