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Well weather was pretty much identical to last race with the dew point being higher today, and maybe a degree or two hotter around 85, 60's were 1.493, 1.498, 1.498, 1.490 1.505, then first round 1.512. 13 psi , left at 2300...
 

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Thought i'd put this in the shock sticky for those reading to learn...

All video's have the shock settings, two step RPM, and launch boost information overlayed at the top of each video in red text.

All numbers are clicks from full tight. So R13C8 would be 13 clicks from full tight on Rebound, 8 clicks from full tight on compression.

Aside from the Run #1 (which was lower RPM/Boost) in the video, all of these runs resulted in spinning. But you can really see from the shock settings how it changes the way the tire is being hit, and how far it's traveling/rotating before spin starts.

Run #1 and Run #2 has the EXACT SAME shock settings, just more RPM/Boost on the launch. You can clearly see by how hard it smashes the sidewall, that "hit" changes with power of the car even on the same shock settings.

Explains a lot why one car to another can't use the same shock settings, even if it's the same brand shock.

Still tuning... but just thought I'd share. It's AMAZING what you can see in slow motion. Really the 2nd run and 5th run both just felt like it spun right at the hit... but that is not true.

You can see run 4 was ALMOST there. Turned about 1/2 or 3/4 of a tire rotation before it spun. Run 5 was with the tighter shock, and you can see I went to far. Car spun nearly right at trans brake release (not enough hit).

First pass where it hooked, car went [email protected] on non-pro 275's. Weighs 3740 with me in it. 2.45 1st / 3.55 rear gear.

 

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I told him that 6 months ago but he don't listen. Its jumping up too quick and unloading the rear tires.
Video is an excellent diagnostic tool, understanding what you see and then making productive changes is the key.... Still trial n error to some point, but being able to see minute characteristics of changes repeatedly is a beautiful thing..... :p
 

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I told him that 6 months ago but he don't listen. Its jumping up too quick and unloading the rear tires.
That was for me? FYI, I removed the stupid QA1 SINGLE ADJ with fixed comp, and put my cheap summit 3 ways on set at 80/20, they pull out easier then my qa1's at 0, and I had my best 60 so far in a lot worse air, 1.459, What actually fixed my hook problem was not the front end, but it was in the back, I Heated the slicks a little more and that took care of it. So For me not listening isn't true, I try more shit on my car then a lot of people. Here's my 60's yesterday, 1.473,1.479,1.469,1.459,1.479,1.471,1.467,1.473,1.468
 

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Stupid 5 minute edit sucks, lol... the front being looser with these cheap shocks also made it a lot more consistent at my track. I also upped my 2 step that I foot brake to 2500 from 2200, hitting the tire harder even. In that weather yesterday I would've been in the 1.50 or worse range.
 

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Thought i'd put this in the shock sticky for those reading to learn...

All video's have the shock settings, two step RPM, and launch boost information overlayed at the top of each video in red text.

All numbers are clicks from full tight. So R13C8 would be 13 clicks from full tight on Rebound, 8 clicks from full tight on compression.

Aside from the Run #1 (which was lower RPM/Boost) in the video, all of these runs resulted in spinning. But you can really see from the shock settings how it changes the way the tire is being hit, and how far it's traveling/rotating before spin starts.

Run #1 and Run #2 has the EXACT SAME shock settings, just more RPM/Boost on the launch. You can clearly see by how hard it smashes the sidewall, that "hit" changes with power of the car even on the same shock settings.

Explains a lot why one car to another can't use the same shock settings, even if it's the same brand shock.

Still tuning... but just thought I'd share. It's AMAZING what you can see in slow motion. Really the 2nd run and 5th run both just felt like it spun right at the hit... but that is not true.

You can see run 4 was ALMOST there. Turned about 1/2 or 3/4 of a tire rotation before it spun. Run 5 was with the tighter shock, and you can see I went to far. Car spun nearly right at trans brake release (not enough hit).

First pass where it hooked, car went [email protected] on non-pro 275's. Weighs 3740 with me in it. 2.45 1st / 3.55 rear gear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jr1VILyS7WE
Have u tried a tighter comp in back to hold the tire better from basket balling? More air too, and looser ext I would try with more air. Just have to keep trying stuff
 

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I think if anything mine actually needs looser comp. on the back. If you watch the video the wheel NEVER goes towards the body even on the bounce back from the sidewall. It actually appears to LAUNCH the body from the compression being so stiff, and then unloads the tire when it does.

I think that tightening the fronts may help this because it will make the body effectively heavier when the shock/spring pushes back up on the body. I won't be able to test again until next weekend, so we'll see.
 

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Thought i'd put this in the shock sticky for those reading to learn...

All video's have the shock settings, two step RPM, and launch boost information overlayed at the top of each video in red text.

All numbers are clicks from full tight. So R13C8 would be 13 clicks from full tight on Rebound, 8 clicks from full tight on compression.

Aside from the Run #1 (which was lower RPM/Boost) in the video, all of these runs resulted in spinning. But you can really see from the shock settings how it changes the way the tire is being hit, and how far it's traveling/rotating before spin starts.

Run #1 and Run #2 has the EXACT SAME shock settings, just more RPM/Boost on the launch. You can clearly see by how hard it smashes the sidewall, that "hit" changes with power of the car even on the same shock settings.

Explains a lot why one car to another can't use the same shock settings, even if it's the same brand shock.

Still tuning... but just thought I'd share. It's AMAZING what you can see in slow motion. Really the 2nd run and 5th run both just felt like it spun right at the hit... but that is not true.

You can see run 4 was ALMOST there. Turned about 1/2 or 3/4 of a tire rotation before it spun. Run 5 was with the tighter shock, and you can see I went to far. Car spun nearly right at trans brake release (not enough hit).

First pass where it hooked, car went [email protected] on non-pro 275's. Weighs 3740 with me in it. 2.45 1st / 3.55 rear gear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jr1VILyS7WE

thats a cool video!!!
 

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"Shocks don't matter"
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Thought i'd put this in the shock sticky for those reading to learn...

All video's have the shock settings, two step RPM, and launch boost information overlayed at the top of each video in red text.

All numbers are clicks from full tight. So R13C8 would be 13 clicks from full tight on Rebound, 8 clicks from full tight on compression.

Aside from the Run #1 (which was lower RPM/Boost) in the video, all of these runs resulted in spinning. But you can really see from the shock settings how it changes the way the tire is being hit, and how far it's traveling/rotating before spin starts.

Run #1 and Run #2 has the EXACT SAME shock settings, just more RPM/Boost on the launch. You can clearly see by how hard it smashes the sidewall, that "hit" changes with power of the car even on the same shock settings.

Explains a lot why one car to another can't use the same shock settings, even if it's the same brand shock.

Still tuning... but just thought I'd share. It's AMAZING what you can see in slow motion. Really the 2nd run and 5th run both just felt like it spun right at the hit... but that is not true.

You can see run 4 was ALMOST there. Turned about 1/2 or 3/4 of a tire rotation before it spun. Run 5 was with the tighter shock, and you can see I went to far. Car spun nearly right at trans brake release (not enough hit).

First pass where it hooked, car went [email protected] on non-pro 275's. Weighs 3740 with me in it. 2.45 1st / 3.55 rear gear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jr1VILyS7WE
Cool video but I'd re-think the bottom shock mount before the shock shaft bends in half. Think about the arc the rearend makes at full extension (the first hit shows it well). Shock spuds should be pointed at each other at a 90 degree angle to the shock body (spherical bearings) with the bottom shock end eye front to back or spherical end eye's the way they are mounted now with the hopes there is enough swivel. Looks like a lot of side load at full extension on the shock shaft now.
 

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Can having too much compression on shocks slow the 60ft? I'm full loose on ext, n full tight on comp, just curious what the effect is from having too much? Not getting up on the tire quick enough? Etc
 

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Can having too much compression on shocks slow the 60ft? I'm full loose on ext, n full tight on comp, just curious what the effect is from having too much? Not getting up on the tire quick enough? Etc
I'm still uncertain if shocks play that large a role with our power levels and stock suspension Grand. I recently put our old junk oil filled Delco's back on the car and it 60's as good or better than it ever has...1.35 to 1.42 depending on the weather and track. :confused:
 

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I'm still uncertain if shocks play that large a role with our power levels and stock suspension Grand. I recently put our old junk oil filled Delco's back on the car and it 60's as good or better than it ever has...1.35 to 1.42 depending on the weather and track. :confused:
Rich, your talking in back? I've been thinking of trying less compression, at full tight now, being the track is much much better now.
 

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Rich, your talking in back? I've been thinking of trying less compression, at full tight now, being the track is much much better now.
Yes, in the back. I have tried Calverts and DA Vikings and have never seen a difference in the car. Making more power now than we ever have on 9" radials and it doesnt seem to care about shocks. Still using the generic Lakewood 90/10's in front.
 
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