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I’m getting ready to do it on my 69 Mustang. I’ll be cutting the shock towers back also and I figured I’d gain a little more room.
 

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If you go on vintagemustangs forum you will find that it is quite popular. I haven't done it but I plan to. It depends a lot on your goals. If you just want a cruiser I don't know that it is necessary, however the consensus is that doing it is about the best improvement you can do to handling with suspension.
 

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I did the drop on my 67 Fairlane, it's just a cruiser, but it and a front sway bar made a huge difference in handling on curvy country roads.
 

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When I did the alignment after doing the Shelby drop on a 68 Stang suspension I found that as the body rises there is less of a tendency for the wheels to toe compared to the stock location. That sold me on the mod on the 67+ models.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. The reason is I'm thinking about doing it to a 66 fairlane for a friend.
It's going to be a street/strip car. I'm going to notch the shock towers.So I was thinking if I drop the upper
arms,I'd be able to really notch the towers like I have not seen.
What do you guys think??
I'm also putting in a cage, frame connectors, mini tub and Cal-tracks.
 

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I found no negatives when I did the drop and I did it at the same time as when I notched the towers. BTW, I also did everything else you have mentioned except I went with a roll bar instead of a cage in my dual usage street/strip car.
 

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Only thing to keep in mind is the 66 and 67 Fairlane towers get real tight when you do the drop. You may have to hammer or notch on the driver side for clearance near the gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tim, thanks could you explain better?. Tight where exactly?
Tight inside the shock tower near the gear box? When the arm is lowered.
Thanks again!
 

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Exactly. Unlike the mustangs the 66 67 Fairlane shock tower narrows back down below the stock arm mounting point a little. That makes it get tight especially on the grease fittings for the a arm bushing, you'll need low profile grease fittings for sure, or cut holes to let them poke through. I've read online that the cars (mostly 66s) have a hump in the tower for gearbox clearance that has to be hammered back or cut out and patched but my 67 did not have that.

I dropped my stock arms first but decided I wanted more caster so I changed to global west +3 caster arms. The original Shelby drop on 67 up mustangs (and 66 or 67 Fairlane) is to drop 1" with no rear movement. 66 earlier mustangs dropped 1" and rearward 1/8" too. There's no room for that on the Fairlane, 1" down only.

Global west actually wants you to drop it 1 3/8" on their arm but that won't fit in the Fairlane and I already had the holes at 1". The instructions say that it's fine to run them there it'll just have a little more camber change cornering that it does at 1 3/8.

I'll try to add a pic of mine with the stock arm dropped, and with the new arm. Also while they're off free up the a arm pivots so it moves easily and possibly look into a roller spring perch, they make it ride much better and react faster.
 

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Like I said stock arms dropped fine with low profile 90 degree grease fittings. The global west arms didn't fit until I ground off the excess thread. To be fair they don't list the arms for a Fairlane, only mustangs and cougars, but the front suspension is the same.

Also when you're done make sure it gets aligned to the Shelby drop specs for best results, if you're not doing it yourself, make sure whoever does it doesn't just follow the stock setting on the computer screen, it won't be pretty, LOL.

Camber 0 to -0.5 degree, at least +2.5 caster more the better especially if it has power steering, and 1/16" toe in.

Mines at -0.3 camber, 5.5 left and 6 r caster and 1/16" toe in total.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tim, thanks for the follow up info. Great explanation with your photos.
I plan on making my own a-arms:oops:. I plan on using 5/8 heims and buying
shafts from a vendor. Like this
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi I like to thank all those who have taken the time to read and reply to this. I finished up another Fairlane, Which was Costly in terms of a lost friendships & Time. But I'm moving on, have to. I have another fairlane to do. I'd post the link to the other thread, but I'm smart enough. So I'll just tell the name, "Chassis Fab (LONG LONG)" It's under Chassis and Suspension.
Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi I like to thank all those who have taken the time to read and reply to this. I finished up another Fairlane, Which was Costly in terms of a lost friendships & Time. But I'm moving on, have to. I have another fairlane to do. I'd post the link to the other thread, but I'm smart enough. So I'll just tell the name, "Chassis Fab (LONG LONG)" It's under Chassis and Suspension.
Thanks again
I just realized I posted this in the wrong thread. Sorry the "Fairlane Drop" has nothing to do with the fairlane that just left. One of the next fairlanes is getting the Drop, and the other one is getting a AJE "COLT 65".

Everyone stay safe😷
 

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I missed this thread earlier so here are my late comments :)

I also did the shelby drop on my 70 Mach 1 and like others, there have been no negatives. When I street drove the car lots, it did improve the handling. Also when I did the drop I went with roller UCA's and LCA's, as well as Street and Track Adjustable strut bars with heim joints. The front end moves very easily up and down with 1 hand with the shocks on loose.

Reinforced the entire shock towers inside and out, along with subframe connectors with outriggers welded to the rocker sills for added stiffness and the main hoop is welded to the subframe/outriggers and a removable cross brace between the two frame connectors. The car has Caltracs and split-mono-leafs. I did not do wheel tubs since with a 70 there is already enough room for a Mickey Thompson 3055S ET Drag (stiff sidewall) 28 x 10.50-15.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I missed this thread earlier so here are my late comments :)

I also did the shelby drop on my 70 Mach 1 and like others, there have been no negatives. When I street drove the car lots, it did improve the handling. Also when I did the drop I went with roller UCA's and LCA's, as well as Street and Track Adjustable strut bars with heim joints. The front end moves very easily up and down with 1 hand with the shocks on loose.

Reinforced the entire shock towers inside and out, along with subframe connectors with outriggers welded to the rocker sills for added stiffness and the main hoop is welded to the subframe/outriggers and a removable cross brace between the two frame connectors. The car has Caltracs and split-mono-leafs. I did not do wheel tubs since with a 70 there is already enough room for a Mickey Thompson 3055S ET Drag (stiff sidewall) 28 x 10.50-15.
app01
Better late than never! How refreshing to see Stick shifted Race Car!! The 67 Fairlane I'll be doing soon, is the car that's getting The Drop. Before I get to that one, I have a 66 fairlane 2dr sedan that's getting a AJE Colt 65.
"Keep banging those gears!!(y)
 
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