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Discussion Starter #1
89 trans am has wilwood calipers in front
Has shit iron gm calipers in rear
Still stock mc and perportion valve still power!
Pedal is a tad soft on first 1/2 in of travel than gets solid
But car won't stop!!
Got on it today on the road and had to hit brakes hard so stop
Fronts locked up and car just kept pushing at leaset 30 feet
Help me there is no way I could make a 1/4 track pass like this
What do I need to do!!
 

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Is the brake fluid clean and new? the way 3rd gens engine compartment is setup the master gets cooked which old fluid will cause brake fade. Mine did that when I street drove mine. Also look at the prop valve they can cause crazy brakes if the spring is broken or binding. Btw all 3rd gen brakes just suck with factory power brakes good luck
 

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also softer than normal 1/2 travel pedal is very likely a cut seal and the master is bypassing
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cut seal?? Where u say
All is new it's a turbo car so headers go foward don't seem to get too hot
I was thinking of keeping power cause of all the issues I hear of getting manual setups to work right
Hard pedal. Won't stop read a lot of those issues from a swap
 

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Call edquay.com and the manual brake conversion will be painless. They were very helpful with mine even when I had issues. (My fault) Great to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why go manual
I have plenty of vacume
Why will it be that much better
Can someone get in depth about it
 

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Manual is lighter. I like the manual brake idea with forced induction because of pressure building up in the brake booster if no check valve is present or fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ya I get that
Bu it's a street car and a easy pedal is nice
If I have to I will go manual
But no one has good brakes and still power?
It can't be this hard to get it too work
 

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So you can lock the fronts and not the rears, right?

Sounds like a master or prop valve problem, or something "real bad" with the rears

Maybe something causing the rears to drag, like stuck pistons, etc, glazing the lining?

Did it EVER work?
 

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are the wilwoods d52's if they are you will need to upgrade to a large bore master cylinder. strange recommended 1.025 bore. The d52's require more fluid volume to be pushed factory master will not cut it. If you are gonna upgrade that master go manual now and be done. call up racecraft they have a bolt in conversion
 

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Manual brakes are not hard to get to work. I have Wilwood dynalites on the front and Moser Torino drums on the back, I wish my Suburban stopped as nice as my manual brake Camaro does.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Fronts are fsl wilwood
Backs work I can brake torque car to 2600rpm before tires spin
Just don't think they work good
May try a perportion valve
 
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