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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a set of Trick flow Twisted wedge heads for my Sons 302, had the heads gone over and now it's time to put this 302 together and not being a Ford guy I have some questions for you Ford guys.

1. Is there a certain roller rocker I need to use. These are not pedestool type heads, full roller rockers.

2. Can you recommend a good head gasket, model or part number. The short block is still a standard bore 302 and will be naturally asperated, no power adders.

3. The heads are for a 302 or 351 so they will accomadate a 1/2" head bolt but his block is set up for a 7/16" bolt. Is there a special part number to use if he keeps a 7/16" head bolt, any sleeve or special washers?

4. We are using a Ford Motorsports "B" cam and would like to run a 1.70 roller rocker, will it be too much lift for the stock pistons? I do not want to fly cut pistons or have to buy new pistons.

5. We are going to swap out the fuel injection and go carb, intake is a Edelbrock RPM dual plane with a Barry Grant Street Demon 650 with vacuum secondaries and electric choke. Is there a curtain throttle bracket that allows the use of the AOD transmission?

Thanks for any info/light you can shed on my trip over to the darkside...LOL

Thanks,
Mike
 

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I think you will be ok as far as piston to valve clearence using like a .043 head gasket but I would still check it ,arp makes a stud kit for using windsor style heads on a 302 block with a bushing/washer to make up the difference , and I would just use a set of fel pro head gaskets nothing fancy
 

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Former RJ instigator
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We went with a lokar throttle cable set up on the boys carbed 89GT, but as far as the AOD throttle pressure cable, goodluck.

You might give lokar or ford motorsports a ring and quiz them, we just chunked ours in favor of the C4.

Cp
 

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Fel Pro 1011-1 head gaskets, 1.7 rockers with B cam will be fine, would recommend milling heads .025-.030" to get 56cc chambers, get you little over 10:1. Comp rockers, TFS rockers, would do 7/16" stud mount (less flex than 3/8")
 

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Billy438Stroker
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Crane Gold rockers worked flawless...I think TF and crane gold are 2 out of a few that will give the right rocker arm geometry...I first tryed a set of Lunati/Harland Sharp/Comps/ Then talked to trickflow..I sent the Harland's back for the Crane Gold's..Line up perfect...
 

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Crane Gold rockers worked flawless...I think TF and crane gold are 2 out of a few that will give the right rocker arm geometry...I first tryed a set of Lunati/Harland Sharp/Comps/ Then talked to trickflow..I sent the Harland's back for the Crane Gold's..Line up perfect...
thats weird, i use Harland Sharp rockers and had no problems
 

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Billy438Stroker
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Were you running the R-Head ?? I know i had a few sets of rockers and pivot points were different on all of them...TF'S and crane golds worked fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks to everyone for their input. It's a def. budget build for my Son so I am trying to help him out with his first project and I know very little about the SBF's. It has been/will be a good learning experience. Thanks for all the input!

Mike
 

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The 1011-1 and -2 gaskets are a bit more expensive and not really needed. I believe 8548 PT2 is the stock replacement gasket part number and is all you need if you are staying n/a and less than 11:1 compression. Save a few bucks there.

As far as roller rockers are concerned, make sure what size studs you have, mine were 7/16" studs and I used Erson 1.6 roller rockers. Scorpion's are a good budget rocker too.

On the T/V cable for the AOD, I think Lokar has something that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They are 3/8" studs, prefer 7/16" but no biggy as we are just running a "B" cam with hyd. roller lifters, springs are 125 on the seat and 300 open.

If I was running a solid roller or large hyd. roller cam I would swap studs and valve springs.
 
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