[565edge]

I ordered a ARP Bolt for my Lunati SBF crank and it is way way short. What is the trick with a SBF 4" stroke Lunati Crank. Does anyone have a part number of a bolt to use? Do I just put a Grade 8 bolt in thier? What about or how do you remove the dampner etc?

Thanks, Allen

 

[RCM Racing engines]

your gonna want to look for sam vincent on here,,,,, he'll tell you all about it

 

[revolutionary]

been there. first make sure it is not just threaded for a LARGER bolt like 5/8". I had that on one of the lunati sbf cranks then also I ended up geting a bolt from a local bolt and screw supplier that was almost 8" long to get all the way in there.

 

[RCM Racing engines]

might want to call callies.....they sell all different length studs...and sizes

 

[565edge]

Its is not a larger thread for a bolt. It is way way down inside the crancksahft. I will get a bolt from a bolt place in town then once I get a length I will have ARP make me the right one. I may need to weld a bolt to my dampner installer to make work? Seems like their is lots of these cranks out. Seems like someone should be making a bolt for it?

 

[DJL]

I used a grade 8 bolt in mine and got a piece of allthread to install it.

 

[fastfreddy622]

are some of the cranks, made with shorter snout????

 

[webb1624]

I have a Lunati Pro Series crank, 4 inch stroke, the bolt I ended up using with ATI damper and crank trigger and pullies for dry sump and vac pump was 9 inches long. Got it from Fastenal. Grade 8

 

[Andrew91GT]

I used a grade 8 bolt in mine and got a piece of allthread to install it.

x2.

 

[Tims86]

Plus make sure the end of the crank does not stick out past your balancer, keeping the balancer from going all the way on flush to the timing gear. I had to machine a spacer to put behind the thick, thick washer I used to hold the balancer to the crank.

 

[DJL]

Plus make sure the end of the crank does not stick out past your balancer, keeping the balancer from going all the way on flush to the timing gear. I had to machine a spacer to put behind the thick, thick washer I used to hold the balancer to the crank.

Forgot about that too, think I cut about 3/16" off mine.

 

[1970 Mustang]

So what is the final determination i have a Lunati Pro Series crank 3.90 i have not taken out the box. SBF

So i need a 9 inch grade 8 bolt for the front and have the snout of the crank taken down about 3/16?

 

[silver_notch138]

X2 I had to make a washer as well to seat the balancer all the way on. Not sure why they are made that way? As far as bolt length I'd have to measure mine i'll post tomorrow. I have now mandrels so it would be the right length to just install with the dampner.

 

[565edge]

Thanks for the heads up. I used a balancer installer / puller from sumit and it had a 5/8 fine thread on one of the adapters. I used a 5/8 rod coupling and a piece of 5/8 fine thread all thread cut to length to install my belt drive hub and will do the same with the balancer hub. I got a arp thick washer and got 5/8's bolts from 3.5" - 5" and will use whatever fits. I have a moroso mandrel and it bolts to the front of my balncer so I dont need the long bolt. I will need to check on the crank snout now.

Thanks guys!

 

[Sam Vincent]

Thanks for the heads up. I used a balancer installer / puller from sumit and it had a 5/8 fine thread on one of the adapters. I used a 5/8 rod coupling and a piece of 5/8 fine thread all thread cut to length to install my belt drive hub and will do the same with the balancer hub. I got a arp thick washer and got 5/8's bolts from 3.5" - 5" and will use whatever fits. I have a moroso mandrel and it bolts to the front of my balncer so I dont need the long bolt. I will need to check on the crank snout now.

Thanks guys!

Dont you just love race engines?
How every thing just goes right together........................................................

 

[ROB]

So what is the final determination i have a Lunati Pro Series crank 3.90 i have not taken out the box. SBF

So i need a 9 inch grade 8 bolt for the front and have the snout of the crank taken down about 3/16?

You don't need a 9" long bolt unless you're trying to smash a mandrel/damper assembly together, and that's really not the best way to do it.

I think the bolt length is closer to 6" without the mandrel and if you need a mandrel get one that bolts to the face of the damper.

Otherwise you'll probably see a lot of fretting on your timing gear when you tear down for rebuilding, which shows the damper is moving around because that long bolt got unhappy with temperature & expansion of various metals it's trying to clamp together.

 

[565edge]

I was also reading this from ATI http://www.atiracing.com/links/pr/dannyb-hub/index.htm

Does this mean I need to trim my ATI balancer hub to fit with the danny bee belt drive?

 

[Sam Vincent]

I was also reading this from ATI http://www.atiracing.com/links/pr/dannyb-hub/index.htm

Does this mean I need to trim my ATI balancer hub to fit with the danny bee belt drive?

I didnt on mine, but if needed, just chalked in up in a lathe have them cut the rear off some

 

[silver_notch138]

Sorry for the delay.... My bolt is 4.5" long. just to be clear we are talking about dampner bolts.....

 

[webb1624]

You don't need a 9" long bolt unless you're trying to smash a mandrel/damper assembly together, and that's really not the best way to do it.

Try using a Lunati SBF crank and an MSD crank trigger and vacuum pump and a 5 stage dry sump pump and a shorter bolt. It ain't going to happen. I am using the CV products twin pin pullies. They are an awesome product.