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Forget about a compression ratio in the 8's. All that does is make the engine lazy out of boost and require more boost to achieve your goals. I ran 10:1 turbo street engines with no issues. Also, for your goal of 1400 or less you don't need anything near as expensive as canted valve or revised valve angle heads. An off the shelf set of 20* cnc'd heads will do just fine. AFR's are not junk. I have ran at least 8 sets of them and currently have 2 small blocks with 220 renegades on them. I also am a fan of the high port head. Either will get you where you want to be. The high ports have a thicker deck and will resist lifting a bit more it seams. But seriously, don't waste money of heads that will require different pistons, intake an d other parts just to get them to function. Your engine is small so utilize rpm to make up for that. Get a healthy cam that will let you spin 7000+ and use some of those larger runner 20* heads that you already have parts for. Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Forget about a compression ratio in the 8's. All that does is make the engine lazy out of boost and require more boost to achieve your goals. I ran 10:1 turbo street engines with no issues. Also, for your goal of 1400 or less you don't need anything near as expensive as canted valve or revised valve angle heads. An off the shelf set of 20* cnc'd heads will do just fine. AFR's are not junk. I have ran at least 8 sets of them and currently have 2 small blocks with 220 renegades on them. I also am a fan of the high port head. Either will get you where you want to be. The high ports have a thicker deck and will resist lifting a bit more it seams. But seriously, don't waste money of heads that will require different pistons, intake an d other parts just to get them to function. Your engine is small so utilize rpm to make up for that. Get a healthy cam that will let you spin 7000+ and use some of those larger runner 20* heads that you already have parts for. Have fun.
Great post and advice, thank you sir
 

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Forget about a compression ratio in the 8's. All that does is make the engine lazy out of boost and require more boost to achieve your goals. I ran 10:1 turbo street engines with no issues. Also, for your goal of 1400 or less you don't need anything near as expensive as canted valve or revised valve angle heads. An off the shelf set of 20* cnc'd heads will do just fine. AFR's are not junk. I have ran at least 8 sets of them and currently have 2 small blocks with 220 renegades on them. I also am a fan of the high port head. Either will get you where you want to be. The high ports have a thicker deck and will resist lifting a bit more it seams. But seriously, don't waste money of heads that will require different pistons, intake an d other parts just to get them to function. Your engine is small so utilize rpm to make up for that. Get a healthy cam that will let you spin 7000+ and use some of those larger runner 20* heads that you already have parts for. Have fun.
This.. :supz:
 

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I agree with Marbles & Enginerd...I run Edelbrock Vic JR heads with no port work, basically out of the box with severe duty valves and PAC springs for my turbo cam. 25 psi boost with MLS gaskets many times with no issues thus far...I'm guessing I'm around 1100 or so fwhp.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ended up having Tony Mamo make me up a set of his heads to his specs.. Now up in the air on whether to ditch the hydraulic cam in favor of a solid roller with TD shaft rockers..
 

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I just ordered a SR set up for my car. I'll let you know how it turns out! I'm keeping my HR stuff though just in case the SR becomes more hassle than it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I just ordered a SR set up for my car. I'll let you know how it turns out! I'm keeping my HR stuff though just in case the SR becomes more hassle than it's worth.

Definitely let me know how it goes! End up making a decision on rids yet or you still up on the air?
 

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Go solid.

I have seen a 1/2 second improvement over the biggest hydraulic roller available. and that's with using a dragweek solid roller..
 
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