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So I've got a Dart iron eagle block that was previously a carb,nitrous race deal & burnt a piston and gouged one cylinder originally was 4.125" bore. Now I'm planning on using it for a supercharged street build but the bore will need to go 4.155" to clean up the damage. Should I bore and go with the larger bore or sleeve the one cylinder back down to 4.125?
 

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That is a no brainer, bore it. Sleeving will weaken it much more and distort the ajacent cylinder.

X100000000000000000000
 

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You can sleeve if it's done correctly.

Sleeving it and then not boring all the cylinders is incorrect.
 

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You can sleeve if it's done correctly.

Sleeving it and then not boring all the cylinders is incorrect.
How would you sleeve it correctly??????????????????? And any time you sleeve a block it weakens it. So how does taken material out of the cylinder and putting a sleeve in makes it stronger ????

And putting a sleeve in will not distort the adjacent cylinder or cylinders. Whats the secret?????
 

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A huge chunk of metal has to be cut out of the bore in order to sleeve it. This weakens it. The sleeve is not physically part of the block... so it will not be as strong as it previously was.
Press fitting a sleeve into the cylinder puts outward pressure on it. This WILL distort the adjoining bore... ESPECIALLY with a Siamese bore Dart block!

These blocks are good out close to 4.200". 4.155" is NOTHING for one of these blocks. Bore it! :)

Good Luck!
 

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How would you sleeve it correctly??????????????????? And any time you sleeve a block it weakens it. So how does taken material out of the cylinder and putting a sleeve in makes it stronger ????

And putting a sleeve in will not distort the adjacent cylinder or cylinders. Whats the secret?????
Pay attention.

If you sleeve a hole and don't bore the one or two next to it they won't be round. So I said sleeve it and bore all of them. I would only go 4.145. I NEVER said sleeve one hole and let it go.

I have sleeved literally HUNDREDS of holes. Several of them set national records in comp.

It's silly what some fools think.

Also I never said the block would have issues at 4.155. You guys just make shit up?
 

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And, is the OP 100% sure .030 will clean it up? .015 per side is not much.

So bore it 4.185 just to not sleeve it? :rolleyes::-damnit

4.200 ain't bad either. Just keep going...............................................................................
 

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And, is the OP 100% sure .030 will clean it up? .015 per side is not much.

So bore it 4.185 just to not sleeve it? :rolleyes::-damnit

4.200 ain't bad either. Just keep going...............................................................................

Now who's makin' chit up?
 

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Now who's makin' chit up?
Just following the crowd here.

I also walked on water yesterday.

Tomorrow I will restore sight to a blind guy for giggles.
 

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Pay attention.

If you sleeve a hole and don't bore the one or two next to it they won't be round. So I said sleeve it and bore all of them. I would only go 4.145. I NEVER said sleeve one hole and let it go.
Why sleeve, and bore them all... when you could just bore them without sleeving?
 

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If it will clean up with another .030 to 4.155, you are good. If the gouge is deep and it will need to be bored to 4.185, I would not trust the block for forced induction. Remember ring seal and head gasket retention is your friend.
 

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If it will clean up with another .030 to 4.155, you are good. If the gouge is deep and it will need to be bored to 4.185, I would not trust the block for forced induction. Remember ring seal and head gasket retention is your friend.
This is my point. How do you KNOW that .030 will get it? Most times it won't.

So I guess the "correct" answer is....try to get it to clean up at .030. If it won't sleeve it.

It's like some of you are in a fantasy world where shit is perfect. He ain't trying to run Jason Line down for the money. You can get a sleeve that is as good a cast iron as the block, or better.
 

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Bore that bad boy. If its only a "street" car you won't have any issue at all
 

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Outlaw Bill said:
If it will clean up with another .030 to 4.155, you are good. If the gouge is deep and it will need to be bored to 4.185, I would not trust the block for forced induction. Remember ring seal and head gasket retention is your friend.
This is my point. How do you KNOW that .030 will get it? Most times it won't.

So I guess the "correct" answer is....try to get it to clean up at .030. If it won't sleeve it.

It's like some of you are in a fantasy world where shit is perfect. He ain't trying to run Jason Line down for the money. You can get a sleeve that is as good a cast iron as the block, or better.
I can possibly go with this... I based my reply based on the statement that the original poster made, saying that the block WOULD clean up at 4.155". There is no point in sleeving it, if 0.030" will do the job.

As for head gasket seal/ring seal vs. bore size... That would depend upon how hard things were going to be pushed... and would be a judgement call, based upon that.

Another possible cure is offset boring that cylinder a little bit. This will allow 0.030" to clean up more than 0.015". If the damage is not directly adjacent to another cylinder, there is very little downside to moving the bore 0.010" or so.
 
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