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As far as how long it lives ts all in the quality of the tune. I would leave the stock rod bolts in it. I shift, and trap my aluminum 5.3 at 7000 with my LJMS stg 2 cam and a TBSS intake.
 

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If you haven't pulled the bottom end apart yet then just leave it and run it. Get your feet wet with it. My First SBE 5.3 was a gen 3. I changed the cam, threw some LS9 head gaskets and ebay head studs. I threw a large frame 98mm on it with a blow thru and went to town. I was surprised how tough those motors were and took my tuner errors like a champ. When it finally let go it was because I maxed out my fuel pump and went lean lifting a head and hurting a piston. I was spinning 7,500. Don't be afraid to re use the stock bolts.

Right now I've got a rod and piston 5.3. My gaps are pretty big. I'm .030 top .032 2nd. King coated bearings, .0025 rod, .003 crank. I turn 8500 with a hydraulic roller and comp short travel lifters. Still blow thru and now twin gt45's. These motors are super resilient if you don't get stupid with the timing or lug it down with a tight converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If you haven't pulled the bottom end apart yet then just leave it and run it. Get your feet wet with it. My First SBE 5.3 was a gen 3. I changed the cam, threw some LS9 head gaskets and ebay head studs. I threw a large frame 98mm on it with a blow thru and went to town. I was surprised how tough those motors were and took my tuner errors like a champ. When it finally let go it was because I maxed out my fuel pump and went lean lifting a head and hurting a piston. I was spinning 7,500. Don't be afraid to re use the stock bolts.

Right now I've got a rod and piston 5.3. My gaps are pretty big. I'm .030 top .032 2nd. King coated bearings, .0025 rod, .003 crank. I turn 8500 with a hydraulic roller and comp short travel lifters. Still blow thru and now twin gt45's. These motors are super resilient if you don't get stupid with the timing or lug it down with a tight converter.
I've started tearing it down, but since I will have all the accessories/head off I'm just going to do the rings too. I know I'll want more boost LOL.

I think with the mileage as low as it is (24k) the rings will be stupid tight, and I don't want to risk it.

Thanks for your input, great information. Are you running a stock 3.6 cast crank? I keep thinking about doing a rod piston deal on a (gen v) lt1 wetsump crank. They're twisted forged and are about $400 new...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
As far as how long it lives ts all in the quality of the tune. I would leave the stock rod bolts in it. I shift, and trap my aluminum 5.3 at 7000 with my LJMS stg 2 cam and a TBSS intake.
Do you use any boost ramping to help keep the rods alive?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The factory torque + angle method doesn't work on used bolts. You will possibly stretch them too far. Reuse the rod bolts and just torque them in 3 stages.... 15..35..52 ft/lbs final.

Specs for reusing oem main bolts:

Start with the inner bolts first.. torque them in 3 stages.. ending up with 65lbft.
Then torque the outers In sequence to 55lb ft.

Inners.. 25..45..65 ft/lbs
Outers.. 15..35..55 ft/lbs
Killer info thank you. I didn't know about overstretching the stock bolts. You probably just saved my engine
 

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Discussion Starter #26
you better open up them ring gaps more..if i was you id be more around 28 top an 30 2nd depending on boost an fuel..rule of thumb i use is .0055 x bore on a n/a car an boosted /nitrous is .007 x bore..

your better off having a little extra gap vs not enough..not enough means butted rings an piston crown removal..not what you want

as for rod bolts i do same as launch for tq specs with a stock bolt,arp i go to the 45#s..ive seen rod bolt failure,seems to happen alot of times to people who pull them apart though vs just untouched,the rod will fail first 90% of the time..as for arp rod bolts an resizing..that debates been going for yrs,plenty run arps with no issue an never resized the rod an some do..its really a matter of opinion..search on google, yellowbullet ls arp rod bolts an thread will come up on it..

a stock ls3 intake tends to fall of around 6600 n/a an when ported an rod modded they go about 200 more rpms..that cam aint going to 7500,prob stop carring power around 7k with boost like has already mentioned..prob peak like 6600.
Thanks for the info Tony. 28 top sounds like a lot, does that have a noticeable difference on blow-by for street driving over 26? If it's close I'd be fine using a little more
I read through the thread originally when I purchased the rod bolts but if so many people are having success I think that reusing rod bolts would be the safer choice.

Do you think a ported ls3 manifold can hold boost?
 

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Do you use any boost ramping to help keep the rods alive?
I'm leaving (trans brake) on 9 1/2# thru 11#'s at 3600 RPM, and its all (23.5#) in by .4 seconds.
 

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Yep, stock crank. I'm in a gen 3 block and its gen 3 crank. The only thing done to my crank was a micro polish after getting it magged and my rotating assembly balanced. I don't have any blow by with my big gaps. On the Gen 5 stuff I'm not sure what is and isn't compatible with the gen 3/4 stuff. Power goals is going to really dictate where to go with the crank. Stock cranks work great in these motors to a point. 13-1400whp you'll wanna start keeping an eye on the bearings as you'll see some flex with a stock crank. But at that point if you're upgrading into a better crank I would personally invest in a full counterweight crank.

First ls are always scary. But couple little tricks here and there and smart tune ups you'll see why these are so popular for being cheap, strong, and fast.
 

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I have ran both. I had some re used stockers that had probably only a couple hundred passes on them. Done a big wheelstand, and had never done that before, so lack of experience, and balls too big, rode it out till the 330. Gas splashed on windshield, and I panicked. Busted the oil pan, block, trans.....bent caster camber plates. Re assembled a iron block 6.2, Went 72 passes and broke a rod bolt. I think the rod bolt was slightly damaged from the wheelstand, and was able to survive for a bit. I went with my new current 6.0, and installed ARP bolts just to make me feel better. I don't think stock gen 4 bolts are bad, just insurance for me. Machine shop we use that builds lots of motors, said you don't have to resize. I have had them in this motor since 2017. I have pulled the pistons out of a couple cylinders to replace pistons damaged from too much timing (greed, stupidity) and the rod bearings looked new. So, I'd say not resizing is working just fine.
 

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Thanks for the info Tony. 28 top sounds like a lot, does that have a noticeable difference on blow-by for street driving over 26? If it's close I'd be fine using a little more
I read through the thread originally when I purchased the rod bolts but if so many people are having success I think that reusing rod bolts would be the safer choice.

Do you think a ported ls3 manifold can hold boost?
you can tighen up the gap but it will limit you a tad more on boost an if you ever miss the tune up or get shit fuel..i go a tad larger..

as for a ls3 intake taking boost a rod modded one can..how i did mine i wouldn't try boost..the stocker will carry a tad more do to the boost vs a na deal.
 

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I run a sbe ls3 26-28 ring gap reused stock rod bolts torqued to factory spec 15lb-ft plus 85 degrees has been in the car for 3 years and been as fast as 7.7 haven’t had any problems with it, it even did drag week this year
 

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Just a suggestion, make sure you check that 6.2 block extra good for core shift. I have seen several lately with the liners all over the place. One motor even had #1 liner canted and the rest were fine. Doesn't matter the year, I have seen all years 6.2 blocks w/ the problem. Most of time you will have no problem, but if you run it at the limit and detonate, it'll crack. Just a thought before you button it up. FYI, I agree with just stay stock rod bolts. Get brand new ones, though. Not worth the risk for to run the used ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I run a sbe ls3 26-28 ring gap reused stock rod bolts torqued to factory spec 15lb-ft plus 85 degrees has been in the car for 3 years and been as fast as 7.7 haven’t had any problems with it, it even did drag week this year
Yeah I've been asking you about it on the tube hah! Bad ass car. Thanks for the info, and on the torqueing.

I wish everyone just said the same thing LMAO
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just a suggestion, make sure you check that 6.2 block extra good for core shift. I have seen several lately with the liners all over the place. One motor even had #1 liner canted and the rest were fine. Doesn't matter the year, I have seen all years 6.2 blocks w/ the problem. Most of time you will have no problem, but if you run it at the limit and detonate, it'll crack. Just a thought before you button it up. FYI, I agree with just stay stock rod bolts. Get brand new ones, though. Not worth the risk for to run the used ones.
I would already have a set, but I have no idea what the part number is, and I just get drowned in other crap when I search.

So what would I be looking for on the liner? Just how square the liner is to the deck? Or if it sticks out of the deck?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
you can tighen up the gap but it will limit you a tad more on boost an if you ever miss the tune up or get shit fuel..i go a tad larger..

as for a ls3 intake taking boost a rod modded one can..how i did mine i wouldn't try boost..the stocker will carry a tad more do to the boost vs a na deal.
I see. I did some more research. I had imagined that radius rod modification wasn't for flow but for structural integrity and most of the gains were from porting. I didn't realize the rod was actually separating air from the plenum into the runner better. Thanks for the tip, I think I'll get gwatney to do one for me.
 

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Basically, just look at the left/right thickness of liner and see if it's the same thickness. You can put a caliper on it and measure, but the bad ones I have seen were so off you could see it just by looking at it. The LS2/5.3 alum I have seen have been spot on comparatively. Me personally, I would not use a 6.2 block for boost unless I could hand pick it. If you want, post up a couple pics of your decks if the heads are not on yet and we'll have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Basically, just look at the left/right thickness of liner and see if it's the same thickness. You can put a caliper on it and measure, but the bad ones I have seen were so off you could see it just by looking at it. The LS2/5.3 alum I have seen have been spot on comparatively. Me personally, I would not use a 6.2 block for boost unless I could hand pick it. If you want, post up a couple pics of your decks if the heads are not on yet and we'll have a look.
Yeah I can do that. I'll take some pictures tonight and post them up soon. I will also examine them but I don't have an even halfway decent caliper on hand (I have some plastic junk one from who knows where or why in the garage). I haven't had any time this week so I've just removed the heads and aux crap. Was going to do the oil pan, oil pickup, cam/lifter/damper swap and rod removal this weekend.
 
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