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Discussion Starter #1
Since it appears my season is over, unless something lucky happens, I'm looking to next year.

I'll list a couple of options I have and let me know what you would do or think I should do.

Right now, I'm, well was, running a 421 cu.in with AFR220s, my best e.t. was a 10.62, my best mph was a 127. Not on the same run.

My block is junk so a new one is inevitable.

Here are my choices as I see them.

I want to run deep into the 9s, I don't have the budget yet for a blower, and nitrous is acceptable, but would rather avoid, as I have no convenient way to get refills, an hour drive minimum.

I can purchase a new block and reuse my rotating assy., and use the 23* heads with nos. Buy a nos cam and spray every pass. But, with the 6" rod and high ring land, will be limited on how far I can push this combo.

I have a set of Bowtie 18* heads valves, and rockers, I can steal the springs from my 23s.

I can buy a block, pistons and use my crank and rods, and run the 18* heads, but I can't spray these as there is a small crack from where the bolt hole was sleeved, so I will need to go N/A.

Or I could purchse a new short block and run a different cu.in setup, as I personally wasn't impressed with the 421. I can get a 434 sht blk for around the 4000.00 area with blk, and all new parts. My stuff has been around for awhile, and may or may not be wearing out.

Let me know your opinions, Thanx.
 

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I think the best bang for the buck would be a Ohio crank Nitrous short block with your heads and a little spray if you wanted but you should be able to get a mid to high 9 out of it NA and spray into a mid 8 no problem and since your getting a whole new short block about 3800 to 4000 you can sell your's complete for more cash
 

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Why can't you get the 18 degree head repaired so it will take some spray? And where is the crack running towards? And who told you that it won't take spray?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I could Chris, if I felt it was worth the money.

No one did, I am just being careful.

The crack is in the deck surface, coming from the bolt hole, when they sleeved the hole, it looks like they pushed the brass sleave in too far.

Then the crack travels over and under the seat into the bowl on two intakes.

I tried to get pics, but the cracks are so small they won't show up. I had them pressure tested and there were no leaks with about 60-70 psi on them.
 

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If your castings are a concern try the new Carl Foltz heads made under BMF they take all your old hardware flow more and are brand new and cheap around 2200 bare for the pair fully CNC ported , any chamber size any runner size, I just put a set on and they seem fine
 

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If the crack is running around and behind and through the intake seat... I wouldn't use the head AT ALL without getting it repaired... with heat, the seat is likely to lose press, and drop.

Honestly there is SO much SB2 NASCAR stuff out there right now for cheap, that I'd recommend you go that route and keep your shortblock.... I'm seeing prices from 2000-40000 COMPLETE, heads, rockers, intake, springs, retainers, tit. valves....... and most if not all that stuff I've seen has always been good stuff... everything is typically in excellent condition... The only glitch is headers.... and you can even get those on E-bay for 300+..... full stainless and might only require a few mods to get to fit.... SB2 and spray the dog out of it. Or run it N/A.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh Great, More Options!!!

LOL!!!!

I understand what you're saying, I know there are certainly better flowing heads out there, but I already own these, and since money needs to be spent on a new block minimum, and pistons to match, I hate whining, but my wifes business is way down and what money I make was available for racing is paying bills, so I must live within that budget constraint.

I have a couple of prospects working for some sponsorship, but until the check is in hand, you must proceed like there is no chance of getting it.

I know there are some really freaky heads and the used NASCAR stuff would prolly kick-ass I would imagine.
 

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I'd get those 18 degree heads repaird before I'd ever bolt them up. Something isn't making sense to me on that one. Those sleeves are thin and don't really have the ability to crack a head like that.... they have very little press on them... for a crack to run that kind of distance something else has caused it... and a seat dropping is another major failure... it'll take out pistons, valves, block, heads .... scrap metal.
 

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I've tryed the repair deal on my bowtie 363's I welded, replaced seat's ,valve job resurface etc. but remember this they are 10 year's old maybe more they have seen hard lap's welding etc. and they do go soft that was my problem and when it was all said and done they still failed couldn't hold a head gasket seal on spray too soft, and it cost alot to fix the heads, looking back I wish I had just bought new heads from the start and not wasted time and alot of money fixing the old one's, and Chris is right there is alot of good deal's out there on SB2 stuff but some of it's junk too so check it out good, the main problem I've seen is the aluminum going soft from welding and over heating, when your racing nextel cup for millions you don't let up till it's dead and that's what they do, I've seen engine's over heated so bad that not a single part is reusable
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great Info guys, thanx.

I was looking over the cracked head today, with glasses :( and the cracks are much deeper than I first thought, so I guess maybe that wasn't such a good purchase after all.

I had 3 guys look at them and all felt they would be fine as long as I didn't spray them, but it isn't their motor either.

I guess the cracks were there for the last 2 seasons and didn't get any worse, I'm pretty confident the guy I got them from was being honest.
 

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Well... it's a risk. Only a rich man can afford to take chances with cheap parts. I'm sorry you had to end up with something like that but I'd rather you take a little beating on a bad set of heads, than take a big beating by the bad set of heads scrapping a whole engine...

Lots of guys take chances with stuff like that and I used to be one of them... trust me I've learned things the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep!!

I've never been one to get away with doing those things it seems. I generally try to do my best to not put myself in those situations, if I can help it.

Know anyone with 1 good head??? LOL!!

Oh well, Maybe I should go back to running 11s....................naw, don't think that'll work either!!
 

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What's the spec's on the head int. volume, valve size, stem size, chamber cc, if mine will do I'll sell it for $500 don't worry it's the one that dosn't have all the weld I still think the BMF's are your best bet but I'll sell mine if that's what your looking for and finding just one head is hard I tryied for a month with no matches
 

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mine are 250 cc int 55cc chamber 2.180 int and 1.625 exh 11/32 stem if they'll work let me know
 
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