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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is there clearance for a GM HEI distributor in place of the original point distributor, or will it hit the firewall on a SBC? Can I use the 12 volt "Accessory" pin on the fuse block to power the HEI or what would be better? Is the 3rd wire going to the starter still necessary for 12 volt electronic distributors?

On the 2 small wires on the front of the starter solenoid, how do you tell which one goes where? This stock Delco Remy starter has both screws the same size and both wires have the same size terminal end. One wire looks slightly larger than the other.

I could turn the ignition switch and see which small wire gets voltage?
 

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I take it you don't have one to try. If I recall, those that do fit, it's very tight. Why don't you just opt for a small body electronic dist and forego the headaches. Regardless, either dist will need FULL 12V power in the 'key on' and cranking positions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do have a new HEI $99 wonder here. Just eye balled it tonight and it looks too big, just checking if anyone could say for sure before I pull the point one out. I was thinking about a Pertronics that would still be able to use the old point cap plug wires if the HEI won't fit. Will the stock coil work with the electronic distributors? Was just considering the HEI for easy to find module if it fails out on a road trip.

Both the little wires on the starter have woven cover. I will pull it back and see if either is purple. Looking at the front of the solenoid, would that go to the left terminal?
 

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The terminal closest to the block is the one that activates the solenoid. The outer one that runs to the coil. I've seen plenty of HEI's on 1st gen Camaros just don't know if they had to make room. What ever you feed it with be sure it has full voltage. I've used a relay and triggered the relay with the coil + wire and used a feed from the alt to power the HEI.
 

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From my experience the hei will not fit without massaging firewall.
On the starter. Like was said oitside wire to coil. That is 12v crank only. Take wire from firewall. Make sure it’s not a resistor wire.
And that is 12v run. It takes 2 wires in early cars. 1 crank 1 run.
If you don’t have a wire from fuse box.
You can run a 12 or 14 gauge I think it is and get the terminal from a Gm dealership.
Terminal is in tray 1 bin 2.
Or I have a couple.
You got my number if you need.
 

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I couldn't even get the cap on the HEI that came with my 69 Camaro. Go with a small cap electronic with a full 12 volts to it.
 

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Have one in wife’s 69 very slight modification to firewall used 2x4 and prybar off back of block went this route for same reason parts are everywhere
 

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Same here, recently installed a HEI in a 68 Camaro. Tight, but fitted ok. To gain more clearance: owner bought new front engine mounts [ insulators ] that were a sloppy fit on the crossmember mounts, about 3/16" of slop. I welded 3/16" spacers behind the front engine mount ear, which gives an additional 3/16" clearance at the f'wall.

I would definitely use the HEI cap if you can. The wider terminal spacing of the big cap reduces the chance of internal arcing.

Power to HEI. Too easy. Use a relay that switches power direct from bat [+] terminal [ or the large alt terminal ] to the HEI. Use a 10 amp inline fuse. Remove ALL wires [ probably two ] that were connected to the original coil [+] terminal & use to power the relay.
 

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69 Camaros came with different engine mounts depending on which sbc your car had. The low performance models have the short and wide engine mounts and the hi performance 302,350 had the tall and narrow mounts. So I think it depends on which engine mounts you have whether it fits tight or not. I would think the condition of the body mounts might factor in as well. I would just get a small body HEI or msd ready to run and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As far as the power for the electronic distributor, the resistance wire that comes from the ignition, it is only 6 volts at the coil, so a relay would have to have that voltage for its coil. Under the dash, the factory fuse block has keyed 12 volts both on Ignition and Accessory male blades a spade terminal end will fit. Other than finding a way thru the firewall, what would be the problem with using either of those with an inline fuse?
 

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Mark
Go to the fuse box and eliminate the resistor wire.
Go to GM dealership.
You need spade connector
Tray 1 Bin 2.
Use a good 12or 14 gauge wire.
it will be 12v. Now. This is ignition on only.
A 14 gauge wire from left terminal on starter for cranking.
If the starter is a mini with 1 switched spot.
Attach wire there w a diode for cranking power.
Need diode to not back feed 12v which would keep starter engaged.
I have done this numerous times.
I have diode number home.
You got my number
Chris
 

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It's for a Pertronix but applies to any electronic conversion.

Use a relay and supply it with a good power source, not from the fuse box.
That is an option. I don’t use a relay. I like to keep it clean and stock looking. The factory did it for years.
You have options here. Which is good.
As long as it works. Pick your way.
 

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That is an option. I don’t use a relay. I like to keep it clean and stock looking. The factory did it for years.
You have options here. Which is good.
As long as it works. Pick your way.
I prefer the relay because it eliminates any voltage drop from the ignition switch or fuse block.

When multiple accessories are on, I've seen voltage from the fuse block drop pretty significantly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, i went for it.

Pertronix electronic cast distributor D104600. Cheapest one.

Pertronix Black coil 1.5 ohms. 40111.

Pertronix Power Relay. (Thanks for the lead on that one.)

Gives me an excuse to replace valve cover gaskets, fix fan shroud, put a new A/C belt on and see why it came off, replace battery cables, ETC.,. while I wait on ignition parts to come in Monday.
 
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