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My 3400 pound car has gone 11.30's at 119 with a stock block, stock crank, stock 5.7" GM rod 406 SBC, on pump gas.

But that can't be possible, according to gary.
 

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I have a stock block in a 1955 Chevy. Center three caps are splayed on a two bolt block. Hard block filled to just below the freeze plugs. My main concern was cooling a pumped up HP 400. I installed threaded AN fittings at the front and rear water port locations on the Edelbrock intake with crossover AN hose bridging them. It has a aftermarket Aluminum high volume water pump and Aluminum radiator. A 7 qt. oil pan helps compensate for extra heat due to the hard block install.
 

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My 3400 pound car has gone 11.30's at 119 with a stock block, stock crank, stock 5.7" GM rod 406 SBC, on pump gas.

But that can't be possible, according to gary.
Fuck, I did the same thing 25 years ago, and with a 4 bolt main 400 block that everyone says is shit. :rolleyes:
 

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My 3400 pound car has gone 11.30's at 119 with a stock block, stock crank, stock 5.7" GM rod 406 SBC, on pump gas.

But that can't be possible, according to gary.
Sounds a lot like the spare parts 406 we threw together to go in the 3rd Jeep. Stock block, stock crank/rods, pump gas. Runs the same times one of the other Jeeps ran with a different SBC that made 593HP. Been running for 4 years now IIRC.
I don't even know how many miles are on it. I got the shortblock from guy I didn't know. Threw heads/cam/intake/carb on it from the spare parts we had, and go.
 

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Gary why do you even bother trying to give advice? No one takes you serious and everyone knows you are a joke. Leave the advice to the people on the board who have a clue.
 

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Mine was a stock block 4 bolt main 400, stock 400 crank, Infamous 5.7 Pink rods bushed, set of Manley pistons, 660 lift solid roller, old 292 Turbo ported heads. Single plane manifold with a 850 Holley. I did brake a crank one time, and melted a block with Nitrous. ;) Car went 10.50 @ 127 on nitrous.
 

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I hear a stock 400 block will egg shape the cylinder walls if you try to put nitrous to it, this of course, after I bought it.
Par for the course.
I believe very little about what I "hear". I go on what I experience.

Remember, there are others out there like 1Gary.
 

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Been running a .40 over 400 with 5.7 rods. Dart Pro 1 heads, steel crank and Lunati cam with CompCam roller lifter and rocker. Engine and balancer have been balanced. Filled with Blockhard up to the bottom of the freeze plugs to stablize the block. Used this combo in my '66 Nova weighing 2850.
 

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Survived Drag Week 2018
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I'm disappointed no one told him to get a junkyard 5.3 and LS SWAP IT YO!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
A stock 400 bloch is fine for 450 hp, providing it passes sonic test and magnaflux. Pay special attention to the area just above the lifter bores on #1-3 cylinders. They love to crack there. The steam holes are another spot that they crack.

Be sure to also do the following with a stock block, prepping for 450 hp.
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Line hone/bore seal surface, stock caps with studs are fine, 2 or 4 bolt.
Plug the steam holes in the deck, use crack repair plugs. You will never run it at temps that will generate surface tension that will make steam pockets. Unless you're going to use it in a truck that will run at 220°, plug them.
Check and correct camshaft bores if required. Index may be off, size is occasionally off. Number 4 bearing bore is sometimes too big.
Index and bore lifter bores for .875" lifters. Some will probably require sleeving.
Square decks to mains/cam bore.
Bore and hone with torque plate, referencing them perpendicular and parallel to the crank centerline.
Use sonic test data to move cylinder placement if required. Trying to index them is a battle you can't win,
Short/mid block fill is very helpful for cylinder stability. You will not have cooling problems.
Correct and index dowel pins for the transmission to crank centerline. BHJ tooling.
Clean up the casting flash for the oil returns in the rear of the lifter valley.
Plug the thermostat bypass hole in the front of the block.
Minimumally chamfer the bores. Chase and chamfer the head bolt holes. Use a thread cleaning tap, not a regular tap.

If you don't skip any steps, you'll have a solid foundation.
Right click....save. Thanks for the info. Don
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Morissa Torme' knows more about a small block 400 than 1Jeeery does. Watch My Cousin Vinnie for the real answer.






I have a 4 bolt 400 with ported SportsmanII heads, [email protected] flat tappet can, port matched Weind Stealth manifold I will let go for fair coin.
Thank you for the offer. I found one today, supposed to pick up Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Thanks to all, appreciate the input.
 

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LOL!
 

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One more thing with 400 blocks. Do not use solid motor mounts!
Use the locking rubber type mounts and a torque arm mounted to the drivers side cylinder head to the frame. Solid mounts will allow the cylinders to distort under load. I've seen number 3-5 score pistons because of this.
 

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When you started the build, a Bow Tie block was too damn expensive. LOL ;) Head studs or bolts?

I'd have no problem with a stock block for OPs goals.
ARP head studs. My first experience with a 400 block lol. Not many people local to me used them so I really never heard much bad about them. Now I know why nobody had one...
 
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