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I got to thinking after watching Flippin this weekend. I have noticed some fast S10 trucks and I had to wonder about weight bias ? Anyone have specs on their trucks with a an alum head SBC ,SS and stock firewall ? I also found a curb weight for a 4 banger truck of 2650, what do they weigh with a 10 point or 25.5 and SBC ?
 

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also what does it take to put a 10.5 tire on a 10 " rim in one of these , frame notch or just relocate springs
 

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a 10'' rim fits fine but will need a 4.5 to 5.5 bs. it does get close. bobbys truck i blieve has had the frame rials moved inward fo more room but retians stock spring setup. as far as wieght im not shure . my truck is around 55% front wieght and 45% rear. with ladder bars it works well with a small tire.
 

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a 10'' rim fits fine but will need a 4.5 to 5.5 bs. it does get close. bobbys truck i blieve has had the frame rials moved inward fo more room but retians stock spring setup. as far as wieght im not shure . my truck is around 55% front wieght and 45% rear. with ladder bars it works well with a small tire.
thats what I did to mine, it's moved in 3" per side and kept it all stock with sliders on the back my rims are 15x10 with 6.5 bs and I'm not sure about the weight bias though... thats a good question! mine has a 8.50 cage, sbc with a t400 trans and 9" weighs around 3100lbs...
 

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draggin' ass
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My 87 blazer (slightly shorter wheel base, 99.5 inches) is 3250 with me in it and 5 gallons of gas in the tank. it is 52% front and this is with aluminum headed small block. As for wheels, on a completely stock width housing and suspension locations, I run a 15x10 with 5 inch back spaceing wheel. with a 325 i had a knuckle width between the sidewall and leaf spring and it came right to the edge of the body line.





Obviously a 10.5 will fit even better.
 

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narrowing frame rails ? like cut the chassis off at the cab move rails inward ? I would think that notching the frame ten following the insder of the rail with a 1 5/8 molly tube and tying cage in would b easier
 

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I got to thinking after watching Flippin this weekend. I have noticed some fast S10 trucks and I had to wonder about weight bias ? Anyone have specs on their trucks with a an alum head SBC ,SS and stock firewall ? I also found a curb weight for a 4 banger truck of 2650, what do they weigh with a 10 point or 25.5 and SBC ?
The gen 1 trucks ('82- '93), are lighter than the gen 2 trucks.

I have a '84 short bed regular cab.

SBC with aluminum heads
Turbo 400
9" Ford rear
10 point CM cage with built in seat mount
Aluminum seat - 1
Gutted interior
Lexan back-glass
Fiberglass 6" lift off hood
All other body panels are stock, even the heavy ass tailgate.
Dual batteries with alternator
10 gallon fuel cell
Aluminum radiator
QA1 coil over front suspension
2" drop spindles
15x10 wheels with 5" backspace
28x10.50" or 29.5x9" slicks depending on track.

Had mine on the scales at Beech Bend last month full of fuel, with me inside ready to race. Weight was 2905. My weight is 180. Truck weight works out to 2730 without me and my gear.

Front weight - 1625
Rear weight - 1280

Planning on gutting the doors of braces, regulators, etc... and changing over to lexan side glass. Dropping one of the batteries, and going to a small fuel cell.

Then I may even gut the box?

I'd like to get down to the 2650 - 2700 pound range with me inside ready to race without having to spend a ton of money on lightweight brakes and fiberglass body parts.


Jeff
 

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narrowing frame rails ? like cut the chassis off at the cab move rails inward ? I would think that notching the frame ten following the insder of the rail with a 1 5/8 molly tube and tying cage in would b easier
depending on the year of the truck (like mine) the springs are mounted directly under the frame so the only way for me to make room and keep the suspension stock was to do it as I was adding the cage anyways so I did it and relocated the shock mounts at the same time here's link to some pics to my build up and mods

http://s446.photobucket.com/albums/qq185/proshot/
 

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Discussion Starter #10
depending on the year of the truck (like mine) the springs are mounted directly under the frame so the only way for me to make room and keep the suspension stock was to do it as I was adding the cage anyways so I did it and relocated the shock mounts at the same time here's link to some pics to my build up and mods

http://s446.photobucket.com/albums/qq185/proshot/
well seems it wont fly in a SS class since the rails have been cliped and moved, I know that frame notching and relocating leafs is legal.
I may have to look at an s10 and seem what I think. Found a few for $300-500 , not like I have room in the shop or the time but they are light and could be a fun shop project . So could my nova also :rolleyes:
 

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I have a 10'' wheel 5.5 backspacing and run 275/60s with a little room to spare in my opinion moving the frame is not needed at all if your running a 28x10.5 or a 275
 

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My 87 blazer (slightly shorter wheel base, 99.5 inches) is 3250 with me in it and 5 gallons of gas in the tank. it is 52% front and this is with aluminum headed small block. As for wheels, on a completely stock width housing and suspension locations, I run a 15x10 with 5 inch back spaceing wheel. with a 325 i had a knuckle width between the sidewall and leaf spring and it came right to the edge of the body line.





Obviously a 10.5 will fit even better.
Reminds me of the twins purple blazer, some guy in Orlando owns it now. Thing would hook on a dirt road.
 

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Sprayed, very good looking baby and nice build!

Did you end up going with sliders and do you have a picture of the actual notch in the frame rail for the brake clearance? Do you have any problems driving it with it lowered on the street?
 

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This was when I was installing the leaf sliders. I tried "eyeballing" them and I believe that backfired cause my rear end is shifted to the right. I tried it by just allowing the springs to move freely up to the point they touched the frame rail and anchored them there. Before, with the shackles, the springs felt really bound up and it took around 400lbs of plates, you can see in the bridgeracing album, to get the rear down on the split monos. Anyway, I'm going to plumb bob it out before I do anything with it.
 

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I tried 3" blocks at first, because that's what I felt like it needed. (see video) The calipers would bounce off the frame rail. Since I got the housing so short, I'm going to have to go ahead and notch the whole frame rail to get the rear down some more. Also, with 3" blocks, the caltrac mount was about an inch or inch and a half below the lowest point of my wheel. It has 1 inch blocks on it now.

3" blocks with shackles:



1" blocks with sliders:


No blocks with stock rear shackles:



Before blocks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SCtxXddlCw

After 1" blocks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp5U638qC38

The first was at Memphis Motorsports before it closed in '09, the second was at a local 1/8 mile track that is really old and traction was a little hard to find 60' out.
 

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Sprayed or John, killer rides!!! Question: How much did the slider lower the truck?
 

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About an inch, maybe less.

John, I really like the stance yours has. I coulda sworn I ordered drop springs for mine but maybe not. Would you mind posting your spring PNs so I can compare?

Thanks
 
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