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1979 Camaro
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to run my battery cables inside the car, and just wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction. What kind of electrical bulkhead is everyone running to run the cables to to go through the firewall? Anything other considerations I should take into account as far as NHRA rules and safety?
 

· T/S 368E
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I run the cable through with gromits on one car and use the through bolt on two others.
Almost 30 years with zero issues either way.
I hated the cable under the car.
 

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1979 Camaro
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210 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info, guys. Is there a rule if thumb on what gauge cable should be run for the battery mounted in the trunk? Looking around maybe 10ft or so. Going in a 2nd Gen camaro
 

· T/S 368E
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40,654 Posts
My no box car has one of the old moroso kits.
The strands are very thick.
Not the best cable, but it’s what they had back then.
My A/PM, T/S car uses a welding cable with the fine strands.
Those are much much better.
Nicer jacket and fine strands are preferred.
Good luck.
 
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540" BBC Alum. BMP Merlin X, F-1R Procharger, 12-rib [email protected], 11psi, AFR 357 heads, E-85 '86 Camaro
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· T/S 368E
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What’s wrong with soldering? That’s what I do. Works great and takes no crimper or hammer.
Soldering works great.
I’ve done both with no issues.

I have the hammer style crimper.
Cheap doesn’t mean it doesn’t work just as good as the fancy models.
 

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I just bought this tool recently -- $31 for both crimper and cutter. Worked great for the price, even used the cutter for some 1/0 cable. I used 2ga cable for both positive to the starter and ground to the engine. Don't underestimate how long the cable needs to be, I used closer to 15ft for my Fox Mustang.

As far as what gauge wire, the charts out there are very conservative and for constant load. I used to have 2/0 cable from the battery but recently changed it to 2ga. I can't tell other than the wire was cheaper/lighter and easier to work with.

 

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I flux the barrel of the lug and the exposed cable then put the lug in the vise vertically - heat with a propane or mapp gas torch and fill with solder. When molten and full slowly immerse the exposed cable into the lug’s barrel. If you feel the need you can crimp with a dull chisel when cool and cover with heat shrink tubing. Ain’t going anywhere 👍
 

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I flux the barrel of the lug and the exposed cable then put the lug in the vise vertically - heat with a propane or mapp gas torch and fill with solder. When molten and full slowly immerse the exposed cable into the lug’s barrel. If you feel the need you can crimp with a dull chisel when cool and cover with heat shrink tubing. Ain’t going anywhere 👍
I do the exact same thing the exact same way minus the flux. I have never had one fail or come apart. Every critical wire in my car is soldered and heat shrink covered.
 
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