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Discussion Starter #1
How do you guys fasten the tin work to a moly round tube chassis car. This is a street car so I don't want the ultra thin tin. I look at some of the race car interior and I can't see how its secured in place. Looking for some ideas. I.t will still have a back seat





 

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On a street car, stitch weld it along the edges of the tin. Use silicon bronze if possible, and always lay out your weld pattern so that you can wrap the corners at least 1/4" in both directions.
 

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No back seat but,










I will also be going back and putting a thin bead of silicone to all areas. Then it will be carpeted. Should keep the majority of the smoke out of the car. I also have aluminum cut for the area beneath the rear window above the tin, that goes all the way back to the package tray area. Just not on in this shot.
 

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On a street car, stitch weld it along the edges of the tin. Use silicon bronze if possible, and always lay out your weld pattern so that you can wrap the corners at least 1/4" in both directions.
x2 and if you use a little thicker tin like you mentioned it'll be easier to weld.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And at certain points it needs to be fastened to the chassis. Are you stitch welding it directly to the moly chassis?
 

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If you will bend down a (about) 3/4" lip at the edge of the panels it hides all the welds. Example, the panel between the tubs....bend the edges down on the outside (tub side) of frame and tack weld. Also, anywhere two panels join together...do them the same. Makes for stiffer panels and unseen welds.
 

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If you will bend down a (about) 3/4" lip at the edge of the panels it hides all the welds. Example, the panel between the tubs....bend the edges down on the outside (tub side) of frame and tack weld. Also, anywhere two panels join together...do them the same. Makes for stiffer panels and unseen welds.
Not sure I follow what you are saying. Could you post a pic?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think he is saying that instead of following the rad of the round tube, you go to the od, then bend 90*. The adjacent panel would have the same 90* bend (putting the edges out of site) then you spot weld or stitch weld the two edges together so the actual joint is hidden from view.
 

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I think he is saying that instead of following the rad of the round tube, you go to the od, then bend 90*. The adjacent panel would have the same 90* bend (putting the edges out of site) then you spot weld or stitch weld the two edges together so the actual joint is hidden from view.
That's it. Nothing wrong with tack welds, rivets or screws showing....in some cases you can't hide them. As I said about the panel between the tubs,instead of having the welds or rivets on top of the frame... as you explaned (better than I did) make the bend and fasten it to the side of the frame.
The same can be done fastening two panels together....panels such as multi piece floors/firewalls Instead of using a "step roll" and "lapping" one panel over the other...bend the edge of each panel down where they meet... then fasten together undernieth with tack weld or screws.
 

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Not sure I follow what you are saying. Could you post a pic?
Blown06, lol....I wished I had enough sense to put pictures on here. I had my Son put some on here a time or two...but last time he tried he didn't have any luck.
It's awful to be so "outdated" and dumb.:(
 

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I cut out some strips with a plasma table to weld to the moly tubes, I used flat bar where it hit the stock floor/steel tubs out of simplicity.





I used silicon to seal the seams underneath.

HTH
 
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