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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with competition engineering cages from summit racing.
I'am trying to deciede between a 8 point or a 10 point. My car only runs 7.0 1/8th mile.
Any input would be appreciated , thanks

Chad
 

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T/S 368E
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Ladder bar, 4 links, leafs???

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I sell the competition engineering cages and have not had any issues with them. I am currently putting one in a mustang and I have sold hundreds of them
 

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Coony...Sorry if hi-jacking....hopefully this crossed your mind, too.

I am curious if the "back seat saver" pre-bent bars pass through the speaker holes in the rear deck and line up with the top of the rear frame rails?
 

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Tony McKellar
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I have their 10 point in my coupe,fit was pretty good,they sent the wrong door bars,other than that,no complaints.
 

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No complaints here, I have installed at least 6 of their cages.
 

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Un-Official YB Tormentor
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Do the whole thing at once. Saves you from tearing the car apart twice. Forward strut bars, dash bars, the works.
 

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if you are going to buy a pre bent cage i would highly suggest an alston or s and w, i havent seen to great of a product from comp eng, also on the rear seat saver bars dont spend the extra money for them, i dont think they fit the cars right, i prefer to bend the bar to around 40 degrees for most cars it seems to work, have someone local with a bender do it for you
 

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Keep in mind that pre bent mild steel kits are made from seamed tubing. They are .034 thick just because the dimensions are all over the place.
When ever we do a MS cage we use DOM tubing.
After working with both, the difference is very evident.
 

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He means .134" wall for mild steel seamed tubing. DOM is held closer in wall thickness and is generally .120", with NHRA allowing .118". Chrome moly is held close to the .083" wall spec. Approximate weights will be CM 45 lb, DOM 65 lb, and seamed 73 lb. for a 6 point bar. NHRA allows MIG or TIG for mild steel but only TIG for CM. However, TIG is cleaner, less spatter onto glass and upholstery so if your guy is good with TIG, go that route. If so, you can see a big weight savings with CM. I found the best price at ART (ad in Nat Drag) on CM and the $ difference from mild is not so big when you consider you may pay $200 truck freight for whatever you get: $175 + 200 vs. 320 + 200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the input guys, I'am just really having a hard time with what to put in the car. It is only a 7.0 1/8th mile car. And I dont plan on going any faster. I just want to be safe, and know i need something. Would hate to be dead cause I was cheap on safety. Hell back when I was younger and had no family I wouldnt even of thought of a roll cage or anything for saftey as far as that goes. ( ole the good ole care free days ) :)

Chad
 

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NHRA requires the 6 point bar from 11.49 to 10.00 in a full bodied car. Therefore, that should be good for you and is a lot easier = cheaper to buy and install than a full cage. The bar is also easier to deal with if you do any street driving.
 
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