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TEAM NORTH
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4,862 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am about to put my engine back together and was looking for some help i need to know if my ring type will work ok and what would the gaps be
new combo
engine-4.030 sbc
crank-ohio crankshaft forged 3.75 lightweight 1pc
rods-eagle h beam 6.0
piston-weisco forged-dome
with hastings plasma poly rings
running dart 215 pro 1 heads
running nos big shot plate 200-400 shot

old setup was
engine-4.030 sbc
crank-eagle cast 3.75
rods-eagle i beam 6.0
pistons-srp inverted dome
heavy mod lt1 alum heads converted to forward flow and standard bolt pattern and dist hole conversion
running big shot plate 200-300
best with this combo was 9.57 @144
 

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Ring Gap

Top and second around .028 to .032, I would strongly urge if useing wet sump to use STD tension oil rings, and put pistions in with transmission fluid.
 

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Custom Engine Shop
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3,812 Posts
You use the trans fluid on the cylinder walls and ring faces as lube.

DO NOT use motor oil.
 

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What about Total Seal`s Quickseat powder for cylinder wall prep?
 

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TEAM NORTH
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok, but I was asking if the rings I got in the kit would be fine,and what would be my ring gaps?. I haven't had any prolems in the past. I have always cleaned the cyl walls with trans fliud and it works great but never coated the rings with it!
 

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Diamond Pistons Rep
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A Plasma Moly ring is not right for your nitrous levels, I suggest a TNT, Hellfire or a AP Steel top ring for your combo. Call Kevin @ Total Seal, he will be able to get you in the right direction !!!!
 

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Block prep should be with good old soap, water and tube brushes. You want to make sure you have all the abrasive from honing off the cylinder walls.
I have never used tranny fluid but always coated the piston skirts cylinder walls and rings with light coat of Marvel Mystery Oil.
 

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TEAM NORTH
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4,862 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
same thing i have been doing for years...good old marvel on the skirts

Block prep should be with good old soap, water and tube brushes. You want to make sure you have all the abrasive from honing off the cylinder walls.
I have never used tranny fluid but always coated the piston skirts cylinder walls and rings with light coat of Marvel Mystery Oil.
 

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http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/
It is a light, red, wintergreen smelling oil that can be added to the gas and/or oil. (does not mix with methanol) It is the best stuff to use in your air tools and you will find many guys like myself that sware by it. I don't think I ever assemblied a motor without it and when I was drag racing motor cycles it was the number 1 oil used for assembling new motors. Most local auto parts or Walmart will have it.
 

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Custom Engine Shop
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3,812 Posts
Block prep should be with good old soap, water and tube brushes. You want to make sure you have all the abrasive from honing off the cylinder walls.
I have never used tranny fluid but always coated the piston skirts cylinder walls and rings with light coat of Marvel Mystery Oil.
Then take a clean rag with ATF and wipe the cylinder wall and see all the dirt that comes out of the bore.

You don't need oil, you do need the rings and walls to cut & seat.
Oil is made to float metal over metal. AFT will provide min lube but help the rings seat faster. Ring seat is very important very early in the motor start up. Soon splash from assy will wash the wall with oil.

But what do I know, Dart now recommends the same thing, ATF!
 

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A Plasma Moly ring is not right for your nitrous levels, I suggest a TNT, Hellfire or a AP Steel top ring for your combo. Call Kevin @ Total Seal, he will be able to get you in the right direction !!!!
X2
 

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Then take a clean rag with ATF and wipe the cylinder wall and see all the dirt that comes out of the bore.

You don't need oil, you do need the rings and walls to cut & seat.
Oil is made to float metal over metal. AFT will provide min lube but help the rings seat faster. Ring seat is very important very early in the motor start up. Soon splash from assy will wash the wall with oil.

But what do I know, Dart now recommends the same thing, ATF!
The cylinders being clean goes a long way to help break in. Not dumping a ton of loose surface cast iron or honing stone abrasive into the oil 30 seconds after start up makes for a happy motor and bearings.
You say Dart says use tranny fluid, my instruction sheet from JE says Marvel. I think the key is to use light coat of light oil. Like you said right after start up enough oil will splash around. Pretty sure most would say NO synthetic for the break either. Total Seal offers a dry film spray but I have never seen it or used it.
 

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TEAM NORTH
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4,862 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
.028 for the top and .032 for the bottom do i have this right??
helfire or tnt rings,and use atf and marvel gottcha

Top and second around .028 to .032, I would strongly urge if useing wet sump to use STD tension oil rings, and put pistions in with transmission fluid.
 

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"Darkness"
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I think ATF cleans better than soap and water. Plus you don't end up with rust. When the bore is clean I wipe a film of ATF in there and jam a dry piston in the hole.

miclau, I would gap .030 top and .040 second. Thats my opinion.
 

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TEAM NORTH
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
really! i just looked at that website and entered 4.030xthe conventional chart#'s of .008 for the top and .0055 of the bottom and i got top.032 and bott .022 just don't know which one to go with seeing as how everyone has differences. Is there a standard # that everyone uses or personal preference?
 

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Most rings will come with a sheet giving you a formula to figure out proper ring end gap as a function of bore diameter. Figure out which application suits you best and use those numbers.
The link below is Je's instruction sheet. It has some different fits than Total Seal thats why I say use the spec sheet put out by whom ever rings you are going to use.
http://www.jepistons.com/dept/tech/dl/piston_instrc2618.pdf
 
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