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Im pretty sure. My buddy had to unplug his and take out of the car to make it run.
 

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27,956 Posts
YES. In fact the only time mine ever seemed to show any signs of RFI was when it was at 100%.
 

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Had this problem this year fixed a set of ground wires to use when I wanted to run it at 100% never had a problem when I was progressing it.
 

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What is the best way to 100% guarantee that i wont get rfi? Ive heard tin foil aroung the solenoid wires and grounding directly to the battery?

From experience, the only way to guarantee it won't get RFI is to route all wires that come from the progressive at least a foot away from any other wire. And, all the power wires to the progressive need the same thing. Plus, it doesn't hurt to have them on a completely independent power and ground circuit, with those wires routed away from any other wire as well.
 

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The nitrous guy
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7,189 Posts
Guys, a nitrous controller, is basically a micro-processor and as such, it does not take much to lock it up. You have to use a little common sense when hooking these up. Anything "noisy", as far as electric goes, water pump, fan, fuel pump, etc, you do NOT want the power and ground for your nitrous controller, to be on the same pick up as these "noisy" items. Also, nitrous wiring, to and from the box, can pick up ignition "noise" if routed close to the crank trigger wire. The nitrous controller itself and the ignition box themselves, don't matter, you could have the nitrous controller on top of the ignition box and it would not matter. It is all about how you have it wired and where those wires run. Do shielded trigger wires and such help...........sure they do, but if you run that shielded cable and your nitrous wiring in the same bundle, it is still likely to pick up noise. Again, pay attention to where you get power and ground and where you run wires and you should be fine.

Monte
 
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