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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I have a question about the instructions on a Comp Cam. This is a flat tappet hydraulic just a touch above stock and they recommend to remove the inner spring during break in and with today's break in oil I just don't know if I should do it or not. The cam is the XE256H RPM range 1000 to 5200, duration is 256/268 and @ .050 lift is 212/218 lift is 447/455 lobe separation at 110 intake centerline at 106. Using the 988-16 springs which are good for 500 lift ( nothing radical), with all the knowledge in this forum I would like some expert guidance.

Cast iron manifold, Q Jet carb, factory style headers ( Long Branch) with Iron heads at 96 cc's ( I cc'd them and it's really 98) with Wiseco 2 valve relief +2.60 pistons sitting at 015 in the hole/deck

What do you say???? Thanks in advance, Lou
 

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With those valve springs i would not be removing the inner spring, just get a good oil like Joe Gibbs BR-30 and run the cam in at 2300-2500rpm for 20to30 mins and you will be fine. The most important factor is the oil you are using on a flat tappet.;)
 

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I haven't ran hydraulic or a solid cam in 15 years but I did install a small hydraulic cam in my sons 400 sbc 2 years ago. I didn't take the inner spring out or anything out of the ordinary because I didn't care, it was just a shitter motor. With that said you may want to think about this. If you wipe out a lobe there is no going back all that shit will be in your engine and bearings. Bad advice or not, nobody will be fixing it but you. Sometimes it in your best interest to follow instructions just to cover your ass.
 

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i have lost some camshaft. not so fun. do your best. remove inner spring.then maybe you do not have to think about what you could have done differently
 

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Why not remove them? Break it in right. It's a little more work, that's all. Don't push your luck here...
 

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A spring for that combo would be nothing more than a single with a damper. What are you going to do, remove the damper? I wouldn't waste my time. I've run in some aggressive solid flats hydraulics without removing anything and they are doing fine. The key is to do the procedure properly and use the correct oil.
A solid flat , well that's a different story.
 

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With those springs which have 230 at .500 and your only going to be at .455 lifter your only going to be around 200 open pressure it would be a waste of time to remove the inner spring.

If its a P-55 core and GM lifters with the steel bottoms and good oil you shouldn't have a problem.

COMP Cams#249-988-16

Dual Valve Springs I.D. of Outer Dia.: 1.060"
I.D. of Inner Dia.: .804"
Seat load: 117lbs @1.600''
Open load: 232lbs @1.100''
Coil bind: 1.000''
Rate: 230lbs/in
Without damper
16 per package
Installed height 1.600 will probably require a lot of shims.
 

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I know a lot of "folks in the know" are reading this thread...with that being said....what's the break in procedure for an 8620 or tool steel core with tool steel DLC flat, lite lifters?

I would like some opinions
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With those springs which have 230 at .500 and your only going to be at .455 lifter your only going to be around 200 open pressure it would be a waste of time to remove the inner spring.

If its a P-55 core and GM lifters with the steel bottoms and good oil you shouldn't have a problem.



Installed height 1.600 will probably require a lot of shims.
No idea about the P-55 core or steel bottoms, it's the kit I bought with all Comp valve train,lifters,cam,push rods,rockers etc. I have never done a Hyd flat, always did Hyd roller or solid roller. I had those springs on other engines in the past but the break in instruction have changed and that's what threw me the curve ball.
 

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As said. The key is to get those RPMs up above 2k as soon as it fires, for good oil circulation. And use a good break in oil. Done many flat tappet cams with more spring pressure and a lot more lift, with out removing springs. Let it run above 2k RPMs for twenty minutes and slowly back off throttle, a little at a time. Don't forget to watch that temp gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Could it be that cam core is softer then others????
 

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I did one just a couple of months ago almost identical to what you have & used good break in oil, ran the engine @ ~ 2400 rpm for a good 25+ mins. SBC, all is fine here
 

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I know a lot of "folks in the know" are reading this thread...with that being said....what's the break in procedure for an 8620 or tool steel core with tool steel DLC flat, lite lifters?

I would like some opinions
What's there to break in?
If it had to 'wear in' then you'd probably compromise the coating on the lifter.
As far as I know there is not really any breaking in other than getting up to temp and put some pulls on it.

Warpspeed knows more I sure
 

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Use good oil and something like the Lucas additive, have it ready to fire right up and maintain 2000rpm or so
And prime before starting.
I've never had a problem with flat tappets breaking in with the inner spring in it.

It's obviously not an aggressive cam and spring package.
 

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The 1.3 to 1 rocker they sell is also a good choice. They made fun of me before, but I've lately, on a small block chevy, ran 2 extra quarts of oil, all being high in zinc. They say that's stupid, and asking for trouble, but let's be honest, when the motor first fires, there is 2 quarts in the top end. I drain it all out after 20 min. add the correct amount, and go. Does it help? Hell, I don't know. Does it hurt? Not yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Use good oil and something like the Lucas additive, have it ready to fire right up and maintain 2000rpm or so
And prime before starting.
I've never had a problem with flat tappets breaking in with the inner spring in it.

It's obviously not an aggressive cam and spring package.

It's not at all, thats whats throwing me a curve ball
 

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No idea about the steel bottoms,
If there's a line around the od of the lifter, twards the face of the lifter, your golden.




Nice job getting it together that fast... looks like you'll make the show!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If there's a line around the od of the lifter, twards the face of the lifter, your golden.




Nice job getting it together that fast... looks like you'll make the show!
Looks like I have FOOLS Gold then
 

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I think you'll be fine. Use the additive and good oil, and get it running fast. I put in a bigger lunati in our 428 than you have, and it didn't have the witness mark on the lifters, and I didn't pull the springs out, and it's good. Dad & the brother have a bunch of miles on it already, if it was going to wipe, it would have by now.

Make sure you have the firing order right on the dizzy, it's not a like a chevy, ask me how I know:rolleyes:
 
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