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Discussion Starter #1
Having trouble getting my ls1 24x reluctor wheel to go on without runout. My first wheel the machine shop put on and it was at about .030 runnout. I removed that one and put another one on and it was the same. The one I did I heated to 450 and just placed it on. Is the heat warping it? I pulled that wheel off and made sure there were no burs. So I ordered yet another wheel. Any one else had this problem?
 

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I was going to say, make sure there are no burs on the crank, but looks like you've already done that. Are you using the special tool to install? When you say you heated it up, did you heat it uniformly (like in a oven) or did you use a torch and try to move it around to heat it up?

450 degrees like a little much on the heat. Try it in the oven (for even heating), but try it at a much lower temp. I assume you have the crank in some sort of fixture to hold it while you are working on it, correct? Maybe on this next one, get the crank all set up and put a few bags of ice and towels around it to cool the crank, will help with the lower heat idea.

Also, are you just dropping the wheel on the crank and letting it cool by itself? On the next one, keep downward pressure (as much as you can) on the wheel while it cools.

Are these billet wheels or stock wheels? Can you chuck the wheel up in a lathe and measure runout before you install it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was heating the wheel up in an oven. I marked the old wheel to the crank and then layed the new reluctor wheel on the old one and put identical marks on it to line it up. Not sure how the machine shop lined it up. I will try one with less heat and see what that does. I do not want to get to fancy yet on the reluctor wheels as this is a mostly stock engine I am putting together for my truck.
 
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