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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Carbed 408, MSD 6010

Bought a short block that was built by a engine shop for another member. It was still brand new in crate. The crank sensor/ wheel does not read correct volt fluctuations. It is supposed to go 8 to 4 volts. Its lucky to go 3.75 to 1.48 volts cranking. However keyed on just without cranking it does read 8 volts. The wheel is straight and its not bent or anything.

If the battery is overcharged it seems it will start great. But if it gets to 12.5 volts it won't crank. It won't synchronize. Usually, they might be hard to start, then they synchronize and are easy to crank thereafter. Its not happening with this engine.

I have tried 3 known good crank sensors.
Two MSD 6010's swapped from running vehicles.
Two harnesses and pinned them out according to MSD specs. They are both good as well as swapping them to other vehicle which runs fine.

Battery is in trunk MSD is grounded to engine block and a 10 gauge wire run from there to the ground post on battery in trunk. The power side is now toggled straight off the battery.

The rev limiter will pretty much shut the engine off and well before its set to activate.

Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

Crankshaft is a 4340 mystery... Holding off on the supplier ATM.
 

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Are you sure you have a 10 gauge wire??? For that length that seems really small. Jegs lists 1 gauge for their battery relocation kits.
 

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If you are running a 10 gauge ground then that's most likely the problem, I'm surprised it didn't melt the insulation right off of it.
What gauge is the positive cable?

Do you also have body and chassis grounds?
 

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What compression is the engine? When cranking the engine over, are you seeing RPM register in the MSD Graphview software?

I just encountered something similar to this recently with a 13:1 engine and a 6010.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm trying to find some exact numbers for you but I don't think your 10 gauge wire is even close to being enough.

The 10 gauge wire is only to ground the MSD straight to the battery. There is a cable running from the battery to the cage and chassis in the back and from the chassis to the block in the front. Car had been run previously with LY6 and 6012 with same set-up to 8000 rpm's.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What compression is the engine? When cranking the engine over, are you seeing RPM register in the MSD Graphview software?

I just encountered something similar to this recently with a 13:1 engine and a 6010.

11.75 to 1 . I am NOT seeing RPM register when cranking the engine over on the MSD Graphview.

It will show rpm's after its fired. When it fires.
 

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11.75 to 1 . I am NOT seeing RPM register when cranking the engine over on the MSD Graphview.

It will show rpm's after its fired. When it fires.
Take all the plugs out and turn it over with Graphview running and see if it registers RPM. If so, MSD is going to tell you that you need a 16v system and/or a better, higher torque starter.

I've heard rumor that MSD has a firmware for the 6010 that is supposed to compensate for higher compression engines that turn enough RPM to register.

Something that we did, and I don't recommend this as a fix, was to hook a battery charger straight to the starter and try to start the engine. In our instance, we did that and then engine has fired ever since without having to jump through any hoops. I can't answer why that worked, but it did.

Standard disclaimers should apply here. Your mileage may vary, and I'm not responsible for any damage that may occur. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I can get it to fire any time. It just needs to be jumped. The MSD high speed starter they sell to get 200 rpm's won't fit my chassis/headers combo. I'm thinking on the 16v battery deal as a buddy told me about a 3 terminal battery one ground , One 16v hot and a 12 volt hot. That should solve my starting problem. Just not sure if it will solve the high rpm misfire.

Anyone know a part number?

I am looking at the XIM Fast but I'm not sure it could cure the imperfect wave signal if the reluctor is the problem.

Looking at the distributor option. The cover set-up is expensive but if it's the only option left I might go there.

Who makes the spacers for the water pump? Anyone know of a detailed write up on someone having done it?

Thanks for the help.
 

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I can get it to fire any time. It just needs to be jumped. The MSD high speed starter they sell to get 200 rpm's won't fit my chassis/headers combo. I'm thinking on the 16v battery deal as a buddy told me about a 3 terminal battery one ground , One 16v hot and a 12 volt hot. That should solve my starting problem. Just not sure if it will solve the high rpm misfire.

Anyone know a part number?

I am looking at the XIM Fast but I'm not sure it could cure the imperfect wave signal if the reluctor is the problem.

Looking at the distributor option. The cover set-up is expensive but if it's the only option left I might go there.

Who makes the spacers for the water pump? Anyone know of a detailed write up on someone having done it?

Thanks for the help.
If you have to jump it to get it to fire, that sounds close (although ours wouldn't fire) to what we had to do. No matter what we did, this engine wouldn't turn fast enough with the baddest PowerMaster starter.

I can say if the 16v would cure a high RPM miss as that could be a number of things.

As stated, doing a distributor conversion with the front cover is very straight forward.

Good luck with it!
 

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only reason im running the front dist. i had a msd 7al3 in it when i ran the first gen. sbc. didnt want to swap all that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
MSD says its normal for it to not show rpm's while cranking. They say "due to compression there is to much oscillation from the crank and cam sensor".
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if youre talking about the regular GM Front drive and a ford dizzy, its very easy, you wont need a write up
Thanks. I was just hoping to find a parts buying guide. Little things like those water pump spacers will be hard for me to find.
 

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MSD says its normal for it to not show rpm's while cranking. They say "due to compression there is to much oscillation from the crank and cam sensor".
Odd, they never told me that. Ah well...

If you're looking at a front distributor setup, I think you have to run a smaller diameter balancer than you would otherwise. Hopefully someone that has done one more recently will chime in with what you need.
 

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94Z, Where did you get the water pump spacers pictured? Who's balancer is that?
its a ati balancer, don't remember the number right off. small with no grooves. there is a guy on here that had some spacers a month or so ago for sale, you may be able to do a search. http://www.wegnerautomotive.com also has the spacers. i bought all my stuff from a guy on ls1 tech that bought it all new and changed directions with his build.
 
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