[speedtigger]

Is there any reason I could not or should not relocate my plate system jets to just in front of the solenoids?

My motives for this modification is to make my progressive more responsive with my usual lower power level jettings.

 

[Nitro Dave]

I personally do not like having the jets before the solenoid. What solenoids are you using? What hp level? what is the starting point on the ramp and how far are you drawing it out?
Dave

 

[speedtigger]

I personally do not like having the jets before the solenoid. What solenoids are you using? What hp level? what is the starting point on the ramp and how far are you drawing it out?
Dave

63n/51f tune right now. 15%-20% initial all in by 3. on the timer which in reality is probably actually all in by the 60' at this jetting. I will be going up to about an 80n jet this winter, but not yet. I am just trying to get more control of my launch for traction reasons.

 

[DHR Darren]

Distribution problems await if you do that.

 

[speedtigger]

I guess I could soften it up some more with timing. I would rather not have to.

 

[Induction-Solutions]

There are several ways to soften the hit without moving the jet. Also what controller are u using and what is the total build time. SJ

 

[speedtigger]

There are several ways to soften the hit without moving the jet. Also what controller are u using and what is the total build time. SJ

3 seconds to full right now, But I have also used 3.5. With my jetting I imagine it is actually about half that time before it reaches full jet.

 

[Induction-Solutions]

Right on. Have you tried to lower start % and lengthen build time. SJ

 

[speedtigger]

Right on. Have you tried to lower start % and lengthen build time. SJ

I have not tried any lower than 15% because I have read that the controller really does not effectively pulse the solenoids below 15 to 20%. However, I am willing to try it.

 

[Induction-Solutions]

I have not tried any lower than 15% because I have read that the controller really does not effectively pulse the solenoids below 15 to 20%. However, I am willing to try it.

Be cautious of what you read on the net these days.

Several thing can effect the control you have down low. The higher your voltage is and the lower your bottle pressure is the more control you'll have of the solenoid. SJ

 

[187z]

Steel lines from noid to plate? If so, why not switch to braid and lengthen them.

 

[94-6spd]

Steel lines from noid to plate? If so, why not switch to braid and lengthen them.

I did this back in my street racing days. The N2O hose was longer than the fuel hose.

 

[mthermos]

There you go, a simple old school trick, make the nitrous line a little longer, say try 2 ft. leave the fuel alone. we did that before the had controllers. Mike Thermos

 

[Nitro Dave]

63n/51f tune right now. 15%-20% initial all in by 3. on the timer which in reality is probably actually all in by the 60' at this jetting. I will be going up to about an 80n jet this winter, but not yet. I am just trying to get more control of my launch for traction reasons.

150 Shot isn't all that much power. How much are you making on motor? If the car will not leave on a 150 shot I would concentrate more on some suspension and tire upgrades.

That aside Like Steve said just bring down the start percentage. IT has been a long time since I messed with that controller but if I remember correctly the controller you listed has you progressing a relay to control the solenoids? Is that correct? If so I never liked that idea and refused to do it that way. The relay simply can not respond fast enough therefore the solenoid control is not that great.

Dave

 

[speedtigger]

150 Shot isn't all that much power. How much are you making on motor? If the car will not leave on a 150 shot I would concentrate more on some suspension and tire upgrades.

That aside Like Steve said just bring down the start percentage. IT has been a long time since I messed with that controller but if I remember correctly the controller you listed has you progressing a relay to control the solenoids? Is that correct? If so I never liked that idea and refused to do it that way. The relay simply can not respond fast enough therefore the solenoid control is not that great.

Dave

This controller does not use relays.

 

[BlackRS]

This controller does not use relays.

Well sort of. The 12v+ of the solenoid will use a relay and the controller will trigger the solenoid through the ground side. They are supposed to be good for 40a current draw, but you could still use a solid state relay and remove the high current from the controller.

I still think with a 150hp jet you may be asking too much for a controller, especially that one. If you plan on stepping up then that would be a good time for one forsure. I would practice with the 150's and no progressive, because that is what the bigger tune will be like at the line, being progressed.

Good luck with it.

 

[speedtigger]

Well sort of. The 12v+ of the solenoid will use a relay and the controller will trigger the solenoid through the ground side.

I don't think that is what Steve is talking about. He meant pulsing relays to control the solenoids which this system does not do.

 

[BlackRS]

I don't think that is what Steve is talking about. He meant pulsing relays to control the solenoids which this system does not do.

I think you mean Nitro Dave. Its best to use a relay for the high current 12v+ side of the solenoid, then let the progressive unit pulse the ground side. That way works if you are using a mechanical relay, and its what NOS has in the instruction manual for that box. Is that how you have yours wired?

Another way to do it is use a solid state relay and have it supply the high current 12v+ for the solenoid then ground the other side of the solenoid like a normal set-up, then... have the progressive unit pulse the low current ground side of the relay. It was just a suggestion of what you COULD do to remove all high current from the progressive unit.

 

[Nitro Dave]

It has been a while since I seen anything with that controller on it. I just looked at the instructions and they do not show to progress through the relay. But I am 99.9% confident that they must have updated that controller since last time I worked on a car with one. Because about 8 5-8 years ago I had to fix a car that had one. The controller only supported like 20 amps and Holley tech explained to me that due to the amp draw they suggested puling through the relay. I yanked the controller off the car and problem was solved.

The one you have must be an updated version.
Dave

 

[speedtigger]

This model number has a "B" at the end. The previous model did not. So, I assume that his might be a next generation device.