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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of a major rewire of my car.

I have a Nitrous Dave relay board and I would like to wire the signal wire from the 40amp relay to the starter signal. Can I use a relay to engage the starter, I have 1/0 wire going from the cutoff switch to the starter? Or will the starter solenoid burn up the relay?

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72 Nova, Caltrac's and Splite Mono's, 10.5 tire, 600+ci, NA!
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??? Consider putting a remote starter solenoid in the trunk, close to the battery…Feed this solenoid from ur master kill of course… from the solenoid run ur fat boy welding cable to ur starter… run ur trigger wire from ur start button to this remote solenoid….

This way you don’t have a long, constant hot fat boy conductor running up the length of ur hotrod; it’s ONLY hot when you hit the button.

I read this years ago here and have always had my Nova wired that way. Thought it was nice way to make ur car that much safer.

Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
??? Consider putting a remote starter solenoid in the trunk, close to the battery…Feed this solenoid from ur master kill of course… from the solenoid run ur fat boy welding cable to ur starter… run ur trigger wire from ur start button to this remote solenoid….

This way you don’t have a long, constant hot fat boy conductor running up the length of ur hotrod; it’s ONLY hot when you hit the button.

I read this years ago here and have always had my Nova wired that way. Thought it was nice way to make ur car that much safer.

Cheers

That would have to take some doing to pull off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The bulkheads pass though the trunk floor. my MSD and relay board power wires are ran thru the rocker channel under the scuff plate. The alt and battery are ran under the car. Its a bit confusing but it works. My switch is mounted along the frame rail. In hind sight I should have mounted the switch above in the trunk and sticking out of the taillight like normal people.
 

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I've seen lots of worry about a constant hot circuit from the battery. If it is such an issue? Then why does every OEM car with a battery under the floor or in the trunk run a constant hot feed?
Doug
 

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I must be missing something??
The trigger wire has no huge load you need to worry about.
Why add another piece that can fail to a circuit that doesn’t need it!!!
 

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You left the NS switch out of the diagram and that is a reason to run a relay. Instead of a relay you can use a Ford starter solenoid, not for the heavy gauge battery cable but to engage the starter.
 

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I don't ask every guy how they wire up their starter, but everyone I know with a racecar has some kind of remote relay/solenoid which feeds the main power to the starter and a jumper to trigger it.

A few guys still using a key don't jumper it, but again, why have added pieces in a circuit that doesn't need it.

Keeping power off the starter has saved my stuff several times when me or one of the guys dropped a wrench down there.


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In general there isn't anything wrong with the way you want to wire it. Any car I wire without a factory ignition switch gets wired like this except I use a small solenoid. I've measured the solenoid current on a couple of starters and have seen 40+ amps on a slow reacting digital clamp meter. More than likely the relay will last many years.
 

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Over time those remote solenoids will start to eat voltage and cause a starter to turn slower and I have also seen them stick on. To get maxium power to the starter the battery cable should go straight to the starter. I use a fuse at the battery to protect the car.
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Over time those remote solenoids will start to eat voltage and cause a starter to turn slower and I have also seen them stick on. To get maxium power to the starter the battery cable should go straight to the starter. I use a fuse at the battery to protect the car.
View attachment 444229
What kind of fuse at the battery are you using?
 

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Over time those remote solenoids will start to eat voltage and cause a starter to turn slower and I have also seen them stick on. To get maxium power to the starter the battery cable should go straight to the starter. I use a fuse at the battery to protect the car.
View attachment 444229

WOW, I have never seen anything like that, and this is my 42nd season.

They use a 10 wire on the trigger, never saw that before, a relay on the trigger, never seen that before,
and homerun the feed cable leaving it hot at the starter post.

Obviously I'm not rewiring all my cars, how they do it goes against everything I've learned!!!


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Over time those remote solenoids will start to eat voltage and cause a starter to turn slower and I have also seen them stick on. To get maxium power to the starter the battery cable should go straight to the starter. I use a fuse at the battery to protect the car.
View attachment 444229
Referencing the above diagram, previously I was concerned with that type of configuration because unless the master cutoff switch in the off position, you'll have a live starter cable at all times from front to back. However, I've since changed my wiring configuration similar to the diagram, with the exception of adding a fuse to isolate the starter circuit (as @1leg mentioned). Now power goes straight to the starter and I only use the remote starter relay to send power to the starter solenoid.

BTW, the inrush amps from the starter is temporary and will not affect the fuse. Here's a good video explanation:
 
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