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Discussion Starter #1
New member here and going to start my 1993 Mustang Notchback build. It may be slow going but figure I’d post the build. I’ve had this car sitting collecting dust in my shop for about a year. When I bought it the motor was already built and has a C4 manual valve tranny. It ran great, but figure it’s time to make the suspension and body match the performance of the drivetrain. Here’s the plan

Through floor subframe connectors
Remove trunk floor
Mini-tubs
8 point cage
Coilovers
Anti-roll bar
Offset control arms
Build axle, or upgrade to 9”
Build trunk floor
Relocate battery
Fuel cell
Strip car
Tubular front end
K-member w/ coilovers
Paint / body
Current drivetrain or upgrade

If I can figure out how to post pics I’ll gwt some up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A few evenings over the last week or so I was able to pull the interior and start installing the through the floor subframe connectors. This was a pain to install as that sheetmetal is thin. I wasn't sure on how to install these, so I may have made them stouter than they needed. After getting the connectors in the front frame rail, I welded them to the lower subframe channel, then laid a cover bead over that bead that connected the connector, lower bead and sheetmetal floor together. Hope that made since. I still have to weld back in the center section between the seat mounting crossmember to be complete for this stage. I also am waiting to install the front kicker bars until I get to the roll cage, as team z couldn't give me an accurate measurement between the kickers to fit their cage. They said every car is different and wait until I get the cage for placement. I found a little surface rust in the passenger rear floorboard, so hit that with some rust preventative, and painted the bars and welds with primer/sealer to keep them from rusting until I paint the interior.

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Discussion Starter #4
A few evenings over the last week or so I was able to pull the interior and start installing the through the floor subframe connectors. This was a pain to install as that sheetmetal is thin. I wasn't sure on how to install these, so I may have made them stouter than they needed. After getting the connectors in the front frame rail, I welded them to the lower subframe channel, then laid a cover bead over that bead that connected the connector, lower bead and sheetmetal floor together. Hope that made since. I still have to weld back in the center section between the seat mounting crossmember to be complete for this stage. I also am waiting to install the front kicker bars until I get to the roll cage, as team z couldn't give me an accurate measurement between the kickers to fit their cage. They said every car is different and wait until I get the cage for placement. I found a little surface rust in the passenger rear floorboard, so hit that with some rust preventative, and painted the bars and welds with primer/sealer to keep them from rusting until I paint the interior.

4 by jsix123, on Flickr

5 by jsix123, on Flickr

6 by jsix123, on Flickr

7 by jsix123, on Flickr

8 by jsix123, on Flickr

9 by jsix123, on Flickr

10 by jsix123, on Flickr

11 by jsix123, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for the above double post, not sure how that happened. For some reason I wasn't able to delete or modify one of the posts, said I only had 5 minutes to edit it.

As of now its time for more tear down and start the mini-tub install. I'll post pics as I make progress. Also, if anyone has any tips and tricks for the mini-tub install, I'd like to hear them.
 

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Looking good. Keep up the progress and pics
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got more of the backend of the car tore down. Removed all of the old fuel system, tank, exhaust system, etc... Spent most of my time cleaning my shop back up when I got done. Plan for this week is to put the tubs together and get some of the trunk area and old tubs removed. Might even have time to start installing them.

On a side note, I ran across what looks to be a good built Ford 9" thats been cut down to 46" flange to flange, is this to narrow, or can I make that work?

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Discussion Starter #13
Found some time yesterday and made more progress. I cut the trunk floor out and got all the edge and sharp corners smoothed out. Still need to come back and removed all the spot welds for the little pieces I cut off to make it clean. I also removed the rear axle and started measuring for the mini-tubs. I'm thinking about replacing my upper and lower torque boxes while everything is exposed. My thoughts are I'll regret not doing them now as I have lots of room to work. My uppers are in great shape but the lowers look like someone used them as a jacking point. The mounts look fine but the sheet metal parallel with the floor looks damaged. I guess the decision now is what brand of upper and lower torque boxes to go with. I'm almost thinking I should do the torque boxes after I cut the old tubs out and before installing the mini-tubs for even more room to work. Man this project just got more involved. I'm also thinking if I'm going this far with the rear suspension I might as well clean everything up back there and give it a fresh coat of paint. Will probably color match under neath and everything with the factory Reef Blue color to match the future paint job. Here's some pics of the progress yesterday.

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Discussion Starter #14
If anyone has any thoughts on torque boxes, which do you think will be better Team Z or JCR Chassis Works?
 

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I am using JCR in my 88 Notch, top notch quality and Paul Dremmer is phenomenal to deal with and his tech/install support over the phone is priceless. Plus I like the idea of the extra adjustability in the lowers. Just my 2 cents. Looks good so far. I have a build thread in the gm section with my car haven't updated it in a while but I think their are some pictures of the torque boxes on their. I will throw some updates on their as soon as I get extra time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am using JCR in my 88 Notch, top notch quality and Paul Dremmer is phenomenal to deal with and his tech/install support over the phone is priceless. Plus I like the idea of the extra adjustability in the lowers. Just my 2 cents. Looks good so far. I have a build thread in the gm section with my car haven't updated it in a while but I think their are some pictures of the torque boxes on their. I will throw some updates on their as soon as I get extra time.
Yes those JCR boxes look nice. Please do update yours when you get time and I'll take a look at the install. Would like to see someone else do it as well to see if theres any tricks or tips to it. I'll also give JCR a call to have a heads up on the install. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Started drilling spot welds last night to remove some little pieces on the rear frame rails that I cut through when I cut the floor out. Figured out really quick I'm going to need better spot weld cutters. I didn't have any so went to the no name store and bought three of those reversible ones. Burned through them all in only 30 spot welds. Have some good ones on order.
 

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Started drilling spot welds last night to remove some little pieces on the rear frame rails that I cut through when I cut the floor out. Figured out really quick I'm going to need better spot weld cutters. I didn't have any so went to the no name store and bought three of those reversible ones. Burned through them all in only 30 spot welds. Have some good ones on order.
What brand is better? I bought some and quickly found out they were junk. Nice start by the way. Have you thought about using Tim Lyons torque box set up for uppers and lowers? They are completely bad ass! That's what I have on mine.
 
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