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Discussion Starter #1
Just put adjustable shocks on the back and wondering just what does going looser do vs going tight? What am I looking for to decide which way to go with them? Thanks
 

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Going looser will allow the shock piston to move quicker/faster.
Going tighter is just the opposite.
 

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So in general will going looser on the rear shocks hit the tires harder?
 

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If your above 100% anti squat, yes ( if the rear end seperates on launch) Then a loose extension will hit the tire harder
 

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If your below 100% it will try to squat, and pick the tires up. The ext ajustments not going to alter it much. This is why I worded it that way. He has not told us what kind of car or set up he has, but a Stock susp Mustang will a lot of times be into being below 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
75 Firebird, caltrac bars and split mono springs. Rear seperates on launch.
 

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IF its a single, most of them will as you tighten them limit ext, but also they will loosen the compression at the same time
 

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79 Firebird with multi leafs, Maxx Traxx bars, and 16 way doubles. Full loose on Comp and 5 clicks Ext. from full loose has worked good for me.
8.5 tire
 

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Chupa Cabra
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I have double adjustables on my car front and rear. It was getting a lot of separation stalling on the converter while staging. Is this what I want? It blew the tires off on that pass with the shocks at almost full loose. It's a tq. arm car with the tq. arm set in the lowest hole. I tightened up the rebound considerably and it helped but started wheel hopping then.

I put the shocks at 18 off stiff for rebound and 22 off stiff for compression per burkhart chassis. Am I going the right way? Also it was the first time out in the new car and I was just leaving off idle letting the converter flash(5000 circle d stall) and it picked the tires up a little but when the front came down the compression was set so stiff that it bounced off the tires which caused more wheel hop for me.

It is a lightweight NA car that needs to be hit hard as it can out the hole to get the best time down track as possible without scrubbing of mph and e.t. from coming down so high.

I had heard that loosening rebound would make it hit softer and tightening it would make it hit harder? Sorry for all the questions and thread hijack.
 

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If your hopping is tire shake, Tighten the compression on the rear and, or add air to the rear tires
 

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Chupa Cabra
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If your hopping is tire shake, Tighten the compression on the rear and, or add air to the rear tires

From what I've read that's the right thing since the tighter the compression the more the tire stays planted down the track correct? And I did make the mistake of running the radials way too low on pressure, which I now read was flattening the tire out making it pancake and hop worse.

I'm going to keep the pressure at 18-22psi this time.

Now with a Tq. arm car with the tq. arm set on the lowest hole(hits the tire hardest there) would I tighten rebound on the rear or loosen rebound in the rear to hit the tire harder or softer.

Thanks and sorry for the de-rail once again. I did a search, but there isn't that much info for tq. arm cars out there.
 

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Chupa Cabra
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Afco has some tips on their website under the tech header, I got some info from there, but most of my info on rebound and compression came from googling.
 

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On a Radial the comp needs to be tight, its harder to lift the whole weight of the car than compress the shock, so once it hits it stays hit. The radial has to stay dead hooked. More hit, loosen the ext, if your over 100% anti squat. ( Getting seperation in the rear)
 

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Chupa Cabra
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On a Radial the comp needs to be tight, its harder to lift the whole weight of the car than compress the shock, so once it hits it stays hit. The radial has to stay dead hooked. More hit, loosen the ext, if your over 100% anti squat. ( Getting seperation in the rear)

Man thanks for helping me out so far. I have the compression set at 22 off full tight and rebound set at 18 off full tight the compression in the front is 2 off full tight, not sure on the rebound as it transfers weight well.

Might be a dumb question but how will I know if I'm over 100% anti squat. The rebound was set at 3 off full loose and at 22psi it blew the tires off and the body was seperating a lot bumping into the beams. Like you could see the ass end flopping around so I tightened it to 18(i know huge swing) but it was the first time out in the car and wanted a middle ground to start from. When I tightened the rebound up to 18 it didn't spin any more but started wheel hopping like I said earlier. I did drop the pressure to 16 when I did that which I know now is way to low for a Hoosier DR.

I think I understand now though. Since it blew the tires off at 3 off full loose I think I realize now the reason it did is because it hit the tire way to hard so I must have over 100% since when I tightened it up it quit spinning. Is it really hitting the tire harder at full loose or is it just planting it harder? You would think tightening the rebound would make it hit the tire harder since it's stiffer.
 

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First off, let me say I know nothing about the suspension on a 4th gen, but it sounds like the suspension action is lift/separation on the chassis. That is how a 1st gen acts with Caltracs so maybe the same info applies to the rear shocks. On the first gen about mid way on rebound and full stiff on compression seems to be the ticket for most. The thing you have to watch out for is that with the softer rebound you will get more chassis separation and sometimes that means the shock is topping out if it comes unglued. Cranking the rebound to full stiff helps with that problem but it is just a bandaid because full stiff on both compression and rebound doesn't work well.

Get out the tape measure and figure out how much shock stroke you have on the extension side. Best way is to measue how much of the shaft is exposed. Take it off, extend the shock and measure again. You need a good 4" of extension travel.
 

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Chupa Cabra
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Thanks greg I will do that. There isn't much of the shaft exposed at all on my car front or rear.

Just checked and there is almost an inch and 3/8's showing.
 

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There are a ton of programs to figure it out. Simple way is if the rear end seperates on launch then your over 100% ( use the math) Hitting the tire hardr and planting it harder are the same thing, holding the hit is the issue most of the time with a radial, Hitting it to hard is more of a problem with a bias tire and lower air pressures.
 
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