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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody tried these? I am looking to remove the cats on my 98 GMC truck and heard these will prevent the computer from setting a code.
Do they affect fuel milage in any way? Any brand better than another?
 

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Bracket racer
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Will not hurt mileage. After cat sensors are there just to monitor that the cats are working. Has no effect on fuel usage.
 

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Creepy Ass Cracka
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Google "anti fouler mod". Go to auto zone, get a 4 spark plug anti foulers, drill the center (1/2" drill bit) out of 2 of them and thread them on to the end of each of your rear o2 sensors. Stuff the other 2 undrilled ones with coarse steel wool and thread them on to the drilled anti fouler/o2 assembly. Install the 2 assemblies and plug the o2's back in. Use anti sieze on all the threads, but be careful not to get any excess on the o2 sensor. It will cause a code.

It works and costs $5 dollars and a half hour of your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any brands better than another, I was in O Reilly's and they had no clue what I was talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Google "anti fouler mod". Go to auto zone, get a 4 spark plug anti foulers, drill the center (1/2" drill bit) out of 2 of them and thread them on to the end of each of your rear o2 sensors. Stuff the other 2 undrilled ones with coarse steel wool and thread them on to the drilled anti fouler/o2 assembly. Install the 2 assemblies and plug the o2's back in. Use anti sieze on all the threads, but be careful not to get any excess on the o2 sensor. It will cause a code.

It works and costs $5 dollars and a half hour of your time.
What happens if both sensors go bad, or is it best to keep functioning ones in there but do this mod in order to eliminate the cats.
I plan on installing a couple resonators on both pipes also to try and keep the exhaust noise down.
 

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Creepy Ass Cracka
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If the sensors go bad, it will set a code for it (i.e. o2 heater circuit, etc). I'm pretty sure it will set some codes with the electric MIL eliminators as well if the o2 is bad. I just never had any luck with the simulators, however I know some people who have had them work. I know for a fact that the anti foulers work ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If the sensors go bad, it will set a code for it (i.e. o2 heater circuit, etc). I'm pretty sure it will set some codes with the electric MIL eliminators as well if the o2 is bad. I just never had any luck with the simulators, however I know some people who have had them work. I know for a fact that the anti foulers work ;)
Ya I was just on a long trip this past week and it set a 420 code again (on going issue) twice and a 430 code once. I have other posts on this and have pretty much changed everything now except the cats (truck has 280,000 miles).
I am looking at changing all 4 oxy sensors, and at the same time either replace the cats or remove completely.
 

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Aviation Section
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Matt, thanks, as always you are on point! They took the electronic syms off the market just before I extensively modified my 2006 Hemi Ram, so I got the dope on the anti-fowlers and installed them but did not use the steel wool. I have been living with the check engine light for years, will try the steel wool thing soon.

Have put 40,000 miles on it with the light on, seems to run pretty good but I know it could be better if I get it out of closed loop. I will list my mods below. Thanks, Dave



2006 Dodge 2WD 1500 SLT Ram Hemi Shortbed Diesel Killer!
Factory 20" wheels
Richmond 4:56 rear gears
Hellwig rear sway bar
Factory towing package, removed 1 leaf each side
Firestone Air Bags
Dynatech full length S/S headers
B&G full flash on the Computer, reprogrammed shift points, MDS disabled
Throttle body spacer
Airaid intake system
Cold Thermostat
No Cats, 4 Flowmasters, true duals 2 1/2" to the bumper w /turndowns
Mag Hitech trans pan and rear end cover
Mobil 1 15W50
Sony sound system with 450 watt amp, 4/4way Pioneer speakers with 2 10" woofers in box behind front seats, self installed
 

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I made some MIL eliminators for wifes 02 mustang using about 8$ in parts from radio shack. Thinking the same would work but the method above may be better??
 

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Creepy Ass Cracka
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5,801 Posts
Matt, thanks, as always you are on point! They took the electronic syms off the market just before I extensively modified my 2006 Hemi Ram, so I got the dope on the anti-fowlers and installed them but did not use the steel wool. I have been living with the check engine light for years, will try the steel wool thing soon.

Have put 40,000 miles on it with the light on, seems to run pretty good but I know it could be better if I get it out of closed loop. I will list my mods below. Thanks, Dave



2006 Dodge 2WD 1500 SLT Ram Hemi Shortbed Diesel Killer!
Factory 20" wheels
Richmond 4:56 rear gears
Hellwig rear sway bar
Factory towing package, removed 1 leaf each side
Firestone Air Bags
Dynatech full length S/S headers
B&G full flash on the Computer, reprogrammed shift points, MDS disabled
Throttle body spacer
Airaid intake system
Cold Thermostat
No Cats, 4 Flowmasters, true duals 2 1/2" to the bumper w /turndowns
Mag Hitech trans pan and rear end cover
Mobil 1 15W50
Sony sound system with 450 watt amp, 4/4way Pioneer speakers with 2 10" woofers in box behind front seats, self installed
Dave, as you know, I have the same truck, but an 04. I have the dynatech longtubes, with their catted Y-pipe, but I got the 420 and 430 codes so I went ahead and removed the cats since I was staring at the light anyhow. Hemifever did the tune for me and turned off the rear o2's, but it wouldn't pass inspection due to that. I first tried the simulators and they set some crazy codes. The anti foulers did the trick tho. I also have a Comp 268 cam in it too. You should really look into it, you would love it!
 

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YB Managing Editor
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51,170 Posts
If the sensors go bad, it will set a code for it (i.e. o2 heater circuit, etc). I'm pretty sure it will set some codes with the electric MIL eliminators as well if the o2 is bad. I just never had any luck with the simulators, however I know some people who have had them work. I know for a fact that the anti foulers work ;)
Anti-foulers FTW!!!!! We've been doing this for years. We drill a long stem spark plug anti-fouler out then screw it into a short stem one. :smt023
Posted via Mobile Device
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Google "anti fouler mod". Go to auto zone, get a 4 spark plug anti foulers, drill the center (1/2" drill bit) out of 2 of them and thread them on to the end of each of your rear o2 sensors. Stuff the other 2 undrilled ones with coarse steel wool and thread them on to the drilled anti fouler/o2 assembly. Install the 2 assemblies and plug the o2's back in. Use anti sieze on all the threads, but be careful not to get any excess on the o2 sensor. It will cause a code.

It works and costs $5 dollars and a half hour of your time.
So by taking the rear O2's basically out of the system won't it prevent the system from going into closed loop, or by leaving a little hole in the bottom of the anti foulers it will allow heat to get at it and enable closed loop to happen?


If the rear measures the difference between the front reading and what the rear sees in comparison, how does it change things when removing the cats?
 

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Creepy Ass Cracka
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So by taking the rear O2's basically out of the system won't it prevent the system from going into closed loop, or by leaving a little hole in the bottom of the anti foulers it will allow heat to get at it and enable closed loop to happen?
Yes, it will still go into closed loop. The hole allows some exhaust gasses to get to the sensor and the steel wool has a slight catalyst effect right at the sensor

If the rear measures the difference between the front reading and what the rear sees in comparison, how does it change things when removing the cats?
When you remove the cats without installing an anti fouler or simulator, the rear o2's will read exactly the same as the fronts. With a properly working converter, the rear o2's put out a pretty steady voltage reading. If you were to graph them, the fronts would be a wave pattern from high to low and the rear would be a relatively flat line.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes, it will still go into closed loop. The hole allows some exhaust gasses to get to the sensor and the steel wool has a slight catalyst effect right at the sensor



When you remove the cats without installing an anti fouler or simulator, the rear o2's will read exactly the same as the fronts. With a properly working converter, the rear o2's put out a pretty steady voltage reading. If you were to graph them, the fronts would be a wave pattern from high to low and the rear would be a relatively flat line.

Sounds good thanks for the tips.
 

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Aviation Section
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Dave, as you know, I have the same truck, but an 04. I have the dynatech longtubes, with their catted Y-pipe, but I got the 420 and 430 codes so I went ahead and removed the cats since I was staring at the light anyhow. Hemifever did the tune for me and turned off the rear o2's, but it wouldn't pass inspection due to that. I first tried the simulators and they set some crazy codes. The anti foulers did the trick tho. I also have a Comp 268 cam in it too. You should really look into it, you would love it!

Matt, always ment to change the cam but was going to do it after I sent my heads out to be ported and never did it. Still have not run it down the track but it is faster then most cars. Put the truck next to a stock 1972 455HO T/A that we just got and it is faster. Dave
 

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Creepy Ass Cracka
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Back before I did the cam it would run 14.20's to 14.30's at around 95 in good air. With the cam and no tune it went a 13.70 @99. I only ran it once with Hemifever's tune, but it was in the dead of summer. 60' picked up a tenth, but e.t. was only 14.20. Weighs 5050 lbs with me in it, I only have a 3.90 gear. Impressive little motors IMO.

 
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