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Discussion Starter #1
Kinda new to ten five racing. Allways raced slower big tire cars. This car 60s low 1.3s most of the time. But having trouble figuring out the best place to stage and pick the best lane.

Any help appreciated.
 

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Try to do your burn out in the middle of the track. Make sure when you get backed up your rear tires are both in your burn out which should be were the best traction should be. Pay attention to the cars running before you in both lanes and see what they are doing or experiencing.

Keep a log book and add notes of track and run.

Experience is your best teacher.

Blessings..........ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the input Ron.

Anyone have an opinion on what to look for on the surface of the starting line. For the guy helping line me up in the lane. This class only allows 26" tire. 60' has been challenging.
 

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I feel for tackiness. The more the better. It is not in the center of the groove either. It is normally on the outer side (left side.) of the groove. We don't have 1.3 60's but I have lined up a lot of small tire cars and it usually works.
 

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Kinda new to ten five racing. Allways raced slower big tire cars. This car 60s low 1.3s most of the time. But having trouble figuring out the best place to stage and pick the best lane.

Any help appreciated.
Get there early and take a look at the track.

Observe how the other cars run.

Try to closely line the car up in the groove in the burnout box and hope for a straight burnout and hopefully line it back up in the fresh rubber.

Look for bald spots on the line.........more prevailant/important where same wheelbase cars run.

Track Time will help you make a choice in reading the track.
 

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In the high hp cars if your out of the groove your going hard left or right like right now. Extremely important for both tires to have the same adhesion or you will have to abort the run. Lower hp cars not as big a deal.

I do the foot twist on the track were I am interested. It takes a little time to get the feel for it. But put you weight on one foot and rotate it on the track to feel just how tacky it really is. How easy does it break loose and is there differences between were the tires will plant. Also I measure the track temp run to run. Look beyond the starting line were the power will be hitting real hard.

Weight balance front to rear will be real important on your car. Also engine center line to weight balance.

Blessings......Ron
 

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I ALWAYS watch the faster cars run prior to my going up and I'm NEVER the first half-dozen cars or so to make a pass. I want some fresh rubber on the track before I make a run. Then I check the starting line for tackiness, as the burn-out box will tell you nothing about the starting line, IMO. Then whomever backs me up after the burnout I tell them to make sure the center of my tires are at the center of my tracks. I try hard not to allow much variance. With that done, I'll pull back aways , take my time staging & make a pass. ANY "weirdness" within the first 100 feet or so I'll abort the run. I don't need to bend the car up or prove I can drive through a problem with the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can't go to the line and check it out personally. A friend goes checks it after we go thru the scales. (Yes we weigh before our runs.) Then he signals which lane before I pull into staging, if we have lane choice. Our class only has 8-10 cars as norm. Haven't tried the burn thru technique as it has been illegal until this year. Maybe with the foot twist we can find a spot. If not maybe the burn thru will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ron: The weight balance 1515 front and 1505 rear. Its an steel headed sbc. My combo is 3000 min. I have to run 26" DOT tire. This is kinda odd class to run heads up on a budget. Have to be stock valve angle a dual plane intake with no mods.
 

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pay attention to track temp and that small of a tire do not put alot of heat in it like doing a burnout across the line buts to much heat in them. Rule of thumb hot track small burnout cold track larger burnout.
 

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Ron has explained my routine actually. What he does is exactly what I do. I will skip my foot across the top of the track surface, then find a spot I think I like, put weight on one foot and twist. When looking for a spot, you want to avoid bald spots and spots that feel "spongy". If the track scrapes the surface routinely, you shouldnt feel much of the spongy type. Again as Ron said...take a look down track. You dont want to launch hard, only to get into bad track surfaces and ruin the run.
 

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I crew chief for a 7.40 drag radial car on 315's, and I do all the of the things in this thread but always like to learn more. Once in a while I will put the car a little out of the groove if there are big bald patches. But I usually don't go more than 1/2 out. I've only had to do to that about three times last couple of outings.

I also watch how the car leaves, we go pro but that's not enough. If the car twists which it likes to do we go back and do a few small things to the suspension.

How about this, questions about using a heat gun. Let's say we go our usual 1.25, and the track is now 15 degrees hotter that the last hit, what do you do change?
 

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When we raced at the NMCA World finals in Indy last year. There was a little oil down before we made our last run. I felt arounf the launch area and nothing. no sticky or rubber. Just a big bald spot. The starter line crew came up and said it was pure resin. Do a good hot burn out and it will be on the bumper. I was like huh? and he just smiled. Anyway we had our best 60' of the weekend. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have been told to beware of the bald spots but not scared of them unless they are just slick concrete . That they can yield a good run if resined.

On using the one foot twist I have been told to look after your foot brakes loose for a shoe print. If you see your print (tread pattern not just tell where it was) beware even if it felt good. This is probably the sponge feeling talked about earlier.
 

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Last few track outings I haven't seen the track using resin though I think Jeff C used it at LS Fest to patch up a few spots.

One thing I've noticed about lining cars up, when guys go from 11's, 10's, 9's, etc into bottom 8's some of 'em will try to continue staging the same way. They do their burnouts and try to correct the car but they only have 1-2 car lengths in which to do it. My friend was doing that but I got him to burnout, roll out, I back him up and I have more room to line him up correctly. If the car is say a foot out of the groove it's pretty hard to get it into the grove if you only have 30 feet to adjust, just my 2 cents.
 

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I feel for tackiness. The more the better. It is not in the center of the groove either. It is normally on the outer side (left side.) of the groove. We don't have 1.3 60's but I have lined up a lot of small tire cars and it usually works.
I can vouch for this , he lines me up all the time and my 60's are usually better.........just saying. Kyle ......Outlaw 7.50
 

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Just remember that if you move the car over one way or the other, you're going to be putting one tire closer to the center where everybody is leaking junk on the track. So don't get too nutty about it. Everybody has to race on the same surface!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just remember that if you move the car over one way or the other, you're going to be putting one tire closer to the center where everybody is leaking junk on the track. So don't get too nutty about it. Everybody has to race on the same surface!
Been there. Last race move to the left of he groove in the left lane and had a rough ride in the 60.
 
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