Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
**BOOSTED SBF***
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions that hopefully some of you can help me with.

1: What size fuel cell and hose size are most people using when its mounted up front and feeding the engine with a belt/hex drive pump? (This is a gasoline powered setup for now but may be converted to alky later so we would like to have a large enough cell for this swap should we decide to convert later)
2: What size Ice/Water Tank and pump will we need to keep a PT3000 cool?
3: If anyone has used a seperate Ice/Water Tank to cool the motor instead of a radiator, what size tank was used and what type of pump? Could a standard front mount electric pump do the job if the hose is large enough or is better to use something like the Rule pump. etc. Most of the people I've talked to use the same tank etc. to cool the motor, i/c, and tranny cooler but I figure it would be better for them to have there own seperate tanks to make sure the i/c water is not overheated from engine water temp.
4: Would it be better for us to plumb the tranny cooler inline on the motor side of the colling system or the intercooler side since we're planning to run these seperate?
5: Will two 16v batteries w/o an alternator be enough to power everything? I'm figuring it should since the fuel pump will be mechanically driven? With the exception of the two water pumps, everythig else will be pretty much standard stuff for a turbo car excpet no electric fan since we intend to run the car w/o a radiator and rely on the ice water from the tank to cool the motor. (This is an 1/8 mile only car and will be towed both ways)

The motor is a 598" BBF with twin turbos and should easily make 2500+hp. It has 2 sets of 160# injectors plumbed into two seperate rails on the intake so any help is greatly appreciated on cell and hose size. I think we're going to use either the Aeromotive or possibly the Waterman fuel pump. I have never used the water tanks to cool the trans cooler and engine before but this is what everyone has been suggesting we do to help keep as much weight possible towards the rear of the car. The intercooler is mounted over the rear axle housing and we already have a Chisled Performance combo tank in the trunk. We are also mounting the fire bottles on the back down tubes of the cage so all this together should help offset the weight of the big motor and twin turbos up front. After we decided on a front mount fuel cell, we would like to use the cell originally planned for fuel in the back as a cooler for the engine and possibly the tranny cooler too if 5 gallons is large enough. I just didn't know if it would be better to plumb the tranny cooler in on the motor or the i/c side of the system. Thanks in advance to any advice you can share with us on this setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,090 Posts
I would use the PT4000 intercooler. Either 2 16v batteries or 1 and an alternator will work fine.
 

·
BOOST!!!!
Joined
·
14,767 Posts
mhancock,
I can't help you with your cooling question but i have just ordered
all the components for a 598bbf twin turbo set up also. could you let us know a bit more about the combo?
 

·
**BOOSTED SBF***
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mhancock,
I can't help you with your cooling question but i have just ordered
all the components for a 598bbf twin turbo set up also. could you let us know a bit more about the combo?
Our combo started as a 598" Kaase/Moody motor but will be more like 600" now with the slight overbore. It has Kaase's best C460 heads and made a little over 1100 n/a when we were still running it as a nitrous motor. The updates haven't been finished on the lower compression turbo conversion yet so I have no idea waht to expect this time but we aren't cutting any corners anywhere with the motor. If we can get it to make close to 1000 n/a now with less compression, I will be very happy. That is just about what I figure we need to make to hit my target goal of 2500rwhp with the twin precision 88mm turbos. The heads are having some updates done right now to better suit the turbos and of course the engine is getting new rods, pistons, and cam. The Bryant billet crank, heads, valvetrain, and the block are just about all that is being used from the old combo. We replaced the Hogan manifold with twin dominators and 3 foggers with a cast FRPP C460 intake that has been converted to EFI and it has 16 160lb injectors with the 11/16" ID fuel rails. I think we may be a little overkill with 320lbs of injector in each cylinder but I didn't want to have to run them at to much duty cycle plus we may later upgrade to alky and the bungs are there if we need o upsize the injectors then. We are going to use a powerglide since L/S doesn't allow anything like the bruno/lenco so we have a couple of nice glides and several spare converters.

We have all the electronics for the car and it will be wired using a custom Spaghetti menders kit, MSD 7531, AMS-1000, and a Racedata digital logger dash. The Big Stuff 3 EFI system will control everything and it also has the data logger as well so hopefully, we will have more data than we will know what to do with....lol

The motor is going in my partners 99 Cobra and we plan to run some TT5, Limited Street, and Outlaw 10.5 races with it as soon as we can get it all put together. It's a really nice car too! It's not quite as radical as some of the new Outlaw cars because it was built to run some L/S stuff. It still has the factory floor to the back seat area and all the cage/chassis was built around, under, and through it. It's all moly and currently certified 25.5 but depending on how well it runs in Outlaw trim, we may have it updated to 25.2 since it will need very little to get this certification and will be required to go quicker than 4.50 in the 1/8 mile. The car has a pro mod style 4 link, PA tubular front suspesnion, Weld Wheels etc. etc. For a L/S car, it has had no expense spared honestly. It could be a little better for Outlaw but that would limit where we could run so we decided to stick to the true backhalf and stock floor.

I'm a little worried that we may not have enough intecooler like Jesse mentioned but I think we are going to start with what we have since we have already made a lot of expensive changes to the car that weren't expected. My partner had the car 99% complete when he brought it to me to finish up the wiring and plumbing. We decided then to pull the sbf single turbo motor and use my BBF instead so we took an almost complete car and took it all the way back apart. I'm glad that my partner is an understanding guy because it has taken a lot longer than I had hoped to source all the parts and get it all done plus a lot more cash. My BBF was in a car and running as a nitrous motor when we decided to do this and I sold that chassis and have been working hard to get the conversion done. There is just so many little details that you don't thinka bout until you actually start building one of these things. We both know that it will be well worth the wait when it's done! I can't wait to roll this thing out at some of the ORSCA races and see how well it's going to run.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,336 Posts
Wow....nice car. Very clean install on all those panels....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,617 Posts
1: What size fuel cell and hose size are most people using when its mounted up front and feeding the engine with a belt/hex drive pump? (This is a gasoline powered setup for now but may be converted to alky later so we would like to have a large enough cell for this swap should we decide to convert later)
2 - 5 gallons, -12 to the pump

2: What size Ice/Water Tank and pump will we need to keep a PT3000 cool?
5 gallons, do you plan on running a transcooler in the ice tank?

4: Would it be better for us to plumb the tranny cooler inline on the motor side of the colling system or the intercooler side since we're planning to run these seperate?
Ours is on the IC side and we're seeing 100-110 degree IATs. We changed the setup alittle to see if we can get them down.

5: Will two 16v batteries w/o an alternator be enough to power everything? I'm figuring it should since the fuel pump will be mechanically driven? With the exception of the two water pumps, everythig else will be pretty much standard stuff for a turbo car excpet no electric fan since we intend to run the car w/o a radiator and rely on the ice water from the tank to cool the motor. (This is an 1/8 mile only car and will be towed both ways)
I've got one 16 volt battery and have no issues driving to the lanes, letting the car run for a few minutes to warm it up and driving back to the pits. The car fires in the pits, runs for 2-5 minutes to warm up. Fires again before burnout and fires one last time after we put the chute in the trunk.
 

·
**BOOSTED SBF***
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1: 2: What size Ice/Water Tank and pump will we need to keep a PT3000 cool?
5 gallons, do you plan on running a transcooler in the ice tank?

4: Would it be better for us to plumb the tranny cooler inline on the motor side of the colling system or the intercooler side since we're planning to run these seperate?
Ours is on the IC side and we're seeing 100-110 degree IATs. We changed the setup alittle to see if we can get them down.
I'm planning to run a seperate tranny cooler like the one from Chisled Performance instead of having it inside the ice/water tank. I just don't know if it would be better to plumb the tranny cooler inline with the i/c or the side that I'm going to use for cooling the motor. I think there will be plenty of room in the front of the car for a Pro Stock syle fuel cell if you guys think this is going to be enough fuel. We have just about decided on mounting the turbos down low where the fog light holes are in the bumper and then mounting the cell right in the middle on the radiator bulkhead. We're going to try not to cut up the inner structure on this car anymore than is necessary. We removed everything from the strut towers forward on my last car except the frame rails and built everything back in moly tubing. It makes it a lot easier to work on but takes away from the "street" car look and feel. L/S doesn't allow one piece front ends anyway so there really isn't that much advantage doing this on the new car.

This is the old L/S car that I had before John and I decided to combine all our stuff and build the new ride.

It might be nice to have all that open space when it comes time to plumb all the turbo pipes etc. but most people like to see a car they can relate to and leaving it "stock" under the hood still has cool factor IMO. I hate to do anything under there since the car was just painted but I know there will be some minor trimming and cutting to get everything to fit properly.


This was the sbf single turbo setup that was going to be used in the car. It's an R block 347 with high port heads and I believe it's for sale if anyone is interested. It's an all new top of the line 302 based motor with a billet crank, oliver rods and JE pistons if my memory hasn't failed me....lol
 

·
**BOOSTED SBF***
Joined
·
3,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We have CP building a custom set of pistons for us. They will have a reverse dome with basically a mirror of the chamber to lower the compression enough to run gasoline.(Q16) We thought about running the car on alky but decided that gas was a better alternative for us right now. This is going to be a similar setup to what both Lynch and Berry Motorsports have in their cars. I think Lynch has a few more inches plus the larger PM 91mm turbos but they are all still very similar. I just hope it makes close to the same power those guys have when it's all done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
i would avoid mounting the turbos low...been there, done that, not worth the headache...we had lots of problems with getting oil back to the motor even with a oil return pump...not to mention i just didnt trust it, if you can find a way to moun them high and let them gravity feed you will be much better off

chad
 

·
The Enemy
Joined
·
22,068 Posts
We have CP building a custom set of pistons for us. They will have a reverse dome with basically a mirror of the chamber to lower the compression enough to run gasoline.(Q16) We thought about running the car on alky but decided that gas was a better alternative for us right now. This is going to be a similar setup to what both Lynch and Berry Motorsports have in their cars. I think Lynch has a few more inches plus the larger PM 91mm turbos but they are all still very similar. I just hope it makes close to the same power those guys have when it's all done.
Pro mod 90s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,331 Posts
i would avoid mounting the turbos low...been there, done that, not worth the headache...we had lots of problems with getting oil back to the motor even with a oil return pump...not to mention i just didnt trust it, if you can find a way to moun them high and let them gravity feed you will be much better off

chad

whose pump where you using?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top