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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 427" SBF, MSD crank trigger with matching distributer and a 7530T box. When I initially got everything set up I used a piston stop and degree wheel to find TDC, moved the timing pointer to reflect TDC on the balancer, rotated the motor over to 34 degrees (where I wanted to start out at), and centered the pipckup over the closest magnet on the wheel. I did this with the engine in the car, so getting the pickup/magnet centered was as close as I could get it becasue I could not look directly at it due to the radiater. Started the motor for the first time this weekend, put a timing light on it and it was at 30 degrees. Pulled the mandrell off the crank, adjusted the pickup again with everything lined up at 34 degrees and got 31 degrees this time. Any reason why I am not getting what I am setting this up at - 34 degrees (thinking if I am looking down at it I may not be actually centering it, could this account for the 3 degree difference)? Can I simply start the engine, loosen the pickup, put a timing light on it and adjsut the pick up till I am showing 34 on the balancer with the light?
 

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I start the motor, check it, then set mine with the engine off ,then start it and recheck it. Adjust as needed til it's right. Air gap and stuff never let me get it perfect not running. RM
 

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You set the timing correctly. It's probably the crank trigger pickup polarity. We just had this problem with a 7531. It was off by like 6 degrees.

Try reversing the green and violet wires.

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Support/frm28388_%20tech_bulletin_109_pickups.pdf

Analog: If you are using an analog controlled MSD Ignition such as a 6A, 6T or 6AL series, SCI series, 7AL series, MSD 8 or 10 or Blaster Ignition, the correct connection is when the timing is retarded.

Digital: When using an MSD Digital-6 or Digital-7 Plus, or the Programmable Digital-7 Ignition Controls, the correct connection is when the timing is more advanced.
 

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I don't think the magnet directly inline with your 34 deg mark is firing #1. My thinking was the same way when I switched over to a crank trigger set-up. Remember, the trigger sends a pulse, your iginition box, that needs to process it and send another pulse to your coil. We are only talking milliseconds but that can be a number of crank degrees. I am pretty sure different boxs have different lag times so move your wheel around so you can set the trigger in the middle and give you plenty of adjustment advance or retard. Once you use a crank trigger you won't look back or care if the magnet doesn't line up.
 

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Set your crank trigger about 8˚ more advanced after you have checked the polarity as stated above. Then use your software to set the timing where you want it. It will give you room to advance if needed. You will lose about 3-4 degrees with a Digital 7. Remember to check rotor phasing when all is done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thnaks for the advice, I will (1) check the polarity to see what that tells me and (2) set it with the engine running (it is a PITA to keep pulling the mandrell off to turn it over by hand). I kinda figured that setting it with the engine off is not exactly a dead on way of doing it the first time.
 

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I just did this and I also used the same setup as 461poncho. I just got the pickup close and started the motor. I fine tuned it while running to show the timing I wanted and then phased my dizzy.
 

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I had the same deal happen to me, 6 AL and a trigger, I finally got it to a point where I could retard it only from 35*....after the first pass, we noticed a few scrape marks on the flying magnet wheel, pulled the pickup back another .030 from the wheel and it instantly gained 5*, total was now 40*. Gap may have something to do with it is all I`m saying.
 

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